crap, you guys are both right. I didnt read that first sentence for some reason... sorry. It sounds like he has found his problem...

 

The problem isn't really solved. It will idle fine on initial startup. Then it will stutter to rev, but once it passes 2500 rpm, it revs beautifully. Smooth and quick, no missing, but then the idle drops and it wants to die.

Valves must be out of adjustment still. I'm assuming that they're too tight. I'm gonna adjust the valves and back them off just a little.

I thought that 1/2 to 3/4 was good, but I'm at about 1/2 or a little over 1/2. I'm gonna go just a shade under 1/2 turn to see if that helps.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTrVEJQkviQ

Notice it revs fine after 2500, then it dies down and I have to give it gas to keep it alive.

 

Are these 30# new?

 

I know everyone always says htis... but is the what kind of condition is the optical spark in?

 

the 30#'s are used but in good working condition.

Got the problem solved finally. My neighbor saw me working on it again. He asked if I got it going, and I told him I was gonna adjust the rockers again (3rd time), so he said lemme change and I'll do it for ya.

He came by, and did it the old school way, he said it's how he does all his race engines (he does mostly sbc's). He did one cylinder at a time.

25 minutes later the car was done, I fired it up, and it was so smooth, revved great at all RPM's, I couldn't believe it. I was stoked. Couldn't thank him enough, took it out for a ride. He told me to change the plugs whenever I do a head swap. Any debri's, coolant, oil, etc.. might get on the plugs when u pull the heads and all that, whatever. Sounded good enough to me, so I'm gonna pull the plugs and replace them. The car is driveable now. Sounds so good rippin down the street.

And like I thought, my valves were way too tight. I can probably stick the 30#'s back on and they'll be fine.

 

I knew it was the rockers. You should always do them one at a time. Just follow the step by step on shoebox's website. You cant go wrong.

 

Yeah I kept doing them #1 tdc, then adjusting the ones the manual said, then I'd rotate the crank and do the rest, and it just wasn't working for me. He did it 90 degrees at a time.

 

Probably, but don't do it until the PCM has been tuned for them.

 

Were you getting 4 full rotations from the crank in order to do them? 2 is not enough.

 

You turn 2 full rotations at 90 degrees apart as he stated.

 

30lb injectors will serve you no purpose without tuning, they will do more harm than good(foul-up plugs...). Different offset/inj pulse rate, you'll be dumping more fuel than needed. Just leave the stock 24's in there until your ready for a tune.

LJ