cam help
01-31-2005, 03:47 PM
#1
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cam help
i was thinking of going with a custom grind cam from comp cams that someone is selling online. it is 239/245 .541/.541 on 1.5 rr. would this cam be too big for non ported heads. i dont have the money for all the cam stuff and to get my heads done. would i be able to run it for a few months then get the heads done later?
thanks,
matt
thanks,
matt
01-31-2005, 03:53 PM
#2
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Location: PORTLAND, OR, MULTNOMAH
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Re: cam help
That's a fairly large cam. I would pass on it. Getting the most out of your SBC requires the right cominations based on how you intend to drive it.
Throwing a big cam in there without considering all the things that go with it, including drivability will most likely lead to remorse. JMHO
Throwing a big cam in there without considering all the things that go with it, including drivability will most likely lead to remorse. JMHO
01-31-2005, 04:34 PM
#5
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Re: cam help
get your own custom grind. They take too many critical engine specs on a custom grind for you to spend your money on a cam built for someone else's engine. I just bought a combo motorsports custom grind for my 383 and it cost me $250. Can't beat that...
02-01-2005, 03:10 PM
#6
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Re: cam help
i posted this on another board too and a few people said it would run alright on non proted heads, but they would be maxed out. i couls just get the cam now and hold off on putting it in untill i have enogh to get my heads done too.
02-01-2005, 03:34 PM
#9
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Re: cam help
Actully, I didn't mean to be a SA. One DOES need to look at all the info before they take or reject so-called advice.
Just let me add a couple of things in your situation:
1. buying a used cam can be a pig in a poke. I'd still have it checked out with a machinest for integrity and specs. So add that in.
2. Probablly no recourse if it isn't what you think.
3. Cam installation is considered a semi-major job and even if youdoe it yourself, you will need springs, etc. etc. etc.
4. Porting heads will only enhance your cam, so getting the cam you want based on how you intend to use the car is the important part (unless you want to change the cam again).
Bottom line: Do it right the first time (at least the best you can) and the best you can does nots include buying a used cam of unknown quality that may or may not even work without a hassle.
You'd be better off with the 306, but remember, it's is not a "small" cam so don't expect it to idle like a kitty cat.
Just let me add a couple of things in your situation:
1. buying a used cam can be a pig in a poke. I'd still have it checked out with a machinest for integrity and specs. So add that in.
2. Probablly no recourse if it isn't what you think.
3. Cam installation is considered a semi-major job and even if youdoe it yourself, you will need springs, etc. etc. etc.
4. Porting heads will only enhance your cam, so getting the cam you want based on how you intend to use the car is the important part (unless you want to change the cam again).
Bottom line: Do it right the first time (at least the best you can) and the best you can does nots include buying a used cam of unknown quality that may or may not even work without a hassle.
You'd be better off with the 306, but remember, it's is not a "small" cam so don't expect it to idle like a kitty cat.
02-01-2005, 03:47 PM
#11
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Re: cam help
Originally Posted by BUBBA
Actully, I didn't mean to be a SA. One DOES need to look at all the info before they take or reject so-called advice.
Just let me add a couple of things in your situation:
1. buying a used cam can be a pig in a poke. I'd still have it checked out with a machinest for integrity and specs. So add that in.
2. Probablly no recourse if it isn't what you think.
3. Cam installation is considered a semi-major job and even if youdoe it yourself, you will need springs, etc. etc. etc.
4. Porting heads will only enhance your cam, so getting the cam you want based on how you intend to use the car is the important part (unless you want to change the cam again).
Bottom line: Do it right the first time (at least the best you can) and the best you can does nots include buying a used cam of unknown quality that may or may not even work without a hassle.
You'd be better off with the 306, but remember, it's is not a "small" cam so don't expect it to idle like a kitty cat.
Just let me add a couple of things in your situation:
1. buying a used cam can be a pig in a poke. I'd still have it checked out with a machinest for integrity and specs. So add that in.
2. Probablly no recourse if it isn't what you think.
3. Cam installation is considered a semi-major job and even if youdoe it yourself, you will need springs, etc. etc. etc.
4. Porting heads will only enhance your cam, so getting the cam you want based on how you intend to use the car is the important part (unless you want to change the cam again).
Bottom line: Do it right the first time (at least the best you can) and the best you can does nots include buying a used cam of unknown quality that may or may not even work without a hassle.
You'd be better off with the 306, but remember, it's is not a "small" cam so don't expect it to idle like a kitty cat.
02-01-2005, 03:58 PM
#12
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Location: Hinesville, GA
Posts: 1,192
Re: cam help
Remember one thing. There's nothing wrong with wanting a big cam...but a engine with a set of good heads and a poor cam will always outperform a motor with a set of poor heads and a good cam. So what I'm trying to say is, even though that cam looks nice, you're better off getting your heads done, then get a cam to match YOUR setup tailored to your wants and driving style. That'll work better than buying someone elses custom cam then hoping your heads are ported well enough to match the specs on the cam.
If you want a big cam, get a cc306, GM847 or XE236/242 that plenty of people have run on stock heads...then have your heads ported. Enough people have used them on the boards that you know it'll still drive OK before and after head porting.
If you want a big cam, get a cc306, GM847 or XE236/242 that plenty of people have run on stock heads...then have your heads ported. Enough people have used them on the boards that you know it'll still drive OK before and after head porting.
02-01-2005, 10:02 PM
#13
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Re: cam help
One thing I have noticed is that this board is more imune to the big cam following than other 4th gen boards. LS1tech being the biggest culprits. that place is the cam of the week bandwagon over there.
A "big cam" is fine if it's the right cam. By that I mean you want to do 4.10 or higher gears, turn the snot out of the motor and either dump the clutch at 6,000 or get one hell of a stall. That might make a big cam the right cam to make the car go quickly.
Personally I wouldn't call the CC306 a big cam just a old cam design that's not right for the job. The GM847 is pretty close to what I would say is getting big on a stock motor, and a XE 236/242..... well good luck getting it to work correctly, not just with the rest of the car but with the rest of the motor.
Most people want a big cam just like they want to look down in the shower and see a big cam. Camshafts shouldn't be related to that part of the anatomy they should be thought of more as the brain of the motor, yeah the other one.
If you ever look at some of the fastest LT1 cam only or head cam cars you don't see these "big" cams listed. If guys are going fast with a big cam they usually have a solid roller and have no problem twisting the motor. Most times you also see things like 3-speed autos and 4.33 gears to go with it too. To me once you dump the overdrive you gave up on the whole "daily driver" idea of the car.
BTW a $250 cam is still a cast core cam. Nothing wrong with that in a stock OEM situation where money is the biggest consideration. I personally have seen cast core ROLLER cams that are soft that wipe out lobes, not just flat tappets. You don't want to take that call from a customer, because guess what COMP, CRANE, ISKY, CROWER, CAM MOTION DO NOT PAY TO REBUILD A MOTOR DUE TO THAT! So if you are spending money on something spend the extra $50 to make sure that the cam is a billet core. I can go on and on about that, being it's my professional opinion. What it comes down to is if greed is a virtue to you, it's only cheaper if something doesn't go wrong.
As always read the sig! That quote is the best one I have ever seen about engine building.
Bret
A "big cam" is fine if it's the right cam. By that I mean you want to do 4.10 or higher gears, turn the snot out of the motor and either dump the clutch at 6,000 or get one hell of a stall. That might make a big cam the right cam to make the car go quickly.
Personally I wouldn't call the CC306 a big cam just a old cam design that's not right for the job. The GM847 is pretty close to what I would say is getting big on a stock motor, and a XE 236/242..... well good luck getting it to work correctly, not just with the rest of the car but with the rest of the motor.
Most people want a big cam just like they want to look down in the shower and see a big cam. Camshafts shouldn't be related to that part of the anatomy they should be thought of more as the brain of the motor, yeah the other one.
If you ever look at some of the fastest LT1 cam only or head cam cars you don't see these "big" cams listed. If guys are going fast with a big cam they usually have a solid roller and have no problem twisting the motor. Most times you also see things like 3-speed autos and 4.33 gears to go with it too. To me once you dump the overdrive you gave up on the whole "daily driver" idea of the car.
BTW a $250 cam is still a cast core cam. Nothing wrong with that in a stock OEM situation where money is the biggest consideration. I personally have seen cast core ROLLER cams that are soft that wipe out lobes, not just flat tappets. You don't want to take that call from a customer, because guess what COMP, CRANE, ISKY, CROWER, CAM MOTION DO NOT PAY TO REBUILD A MOTOR DUE TO THAT! So if you are spending money on something spend the extra $50 to make sure that the cam is a billet core. I can go on and on about that, being it's my professional opinion. What it comes down to is if greed is a virtue to you, it's only cheaper if something doesn't go wrong.
As always read the sig! That quote is the best one I have ever seen about engine building.
Bret
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