LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

A/C Delete pully?

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Old May 7, 2007 | 01:24 PM
  #16  
jasonisdn's Avatar
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thats a damn good price, is it a oem part or a *** part?
Old May 7, 2007 | 02:35 PM
  #17  
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the rad. DOES hold itself in as suggested already. the a/c condensor attaches to the radiator, and the rad. does all the holding in place. no problem there. but, I bought a GM delete pulley and I had to get a shorter belt. dont remember what size belt though. sorry. if I get the car up in the air again soon, I'll get the gatorback part # off it for you.
Old May 7, 2007 | 03:15 PM
  #18  
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From: Moore Oklahoma
On the condenser removal issue, it has been awhile since I had the radiator out and couldn’t remember exactly which part supported the other. But I do remember they were sand witched together.

Also, if you just remove the condenser you will have a minor air ducting leak issue (gaps on each side of the radiator) the thickness of the condenser. Did the F-Bodies w/o factory A/C have different plastic ducting that would eliminate the gaps?

WD
Old May 7, 2007 | 05:07 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by jasonisdn
thats a damn good price, is it a oem part or a *** part?
Probably chinese, but who knows where the oem part comes from?
Old May 7, 2007 | 06:02 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by tim95z28
Probably chinese, but who knows where the oem part comes from?
canada, its on the back of it
Old May 7, 2007 | 06:39 PM
  #21  
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I bought mine from Autozone. It was about $40. It could have been better. I think i replaced the included "bearing" and bolt. I put my alternator where the AC was and put the new pulley where the alternator was. Had to use a 3 inch shorter belt.

I saw no problems without running the condenser. The radiator sat down on the rubber down low and the plastic piece with emmisions info holds the radiator in fine.
Old May 7, 2007 | 06:52 PM
  #22  
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as for the radiator air leak, yes, it wouldnt be as sealed as factory. but unless your roadracing, shouldnt ever be an issue. the added air flow through the rad. because the condensor isnt there will outweigh the air that gets around the rad. now that the condensor is gone. dont know if those 1LE cars had diff. ducting plastics though. you could prolly make something up relitivly easy though and rivet it to the existing ducting.
Old May 7, 2007 | 08:15 PM
  #23  
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I used sam taylor. they are great and similar price to GMpartsdirect and quicker!
Old May 8, 2007 | 02:19 AM
  #24  
derbs's Avatar
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I didnt know I need to do that much with it. Man
Old May 10, 2007 | 05:58 PM
  #25  
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Could anybody show me some pics, of where I bolt the delete pulley??, and where do I bolt the alternator on to? what bolt do I use, and how to run the belt?? thanks!
Old May 10, 2007 | 06:49 PM
  #26  
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first you have to remove the a/c compressor. thats almost all of the work. the delete pulley will bolt in place of the compressor with three bolts. very easy to do (after you have the compressor off. not so easy to do. but anyone CAN do it with patience. nothing else to do except make sure your serp belt fits. some people reused the stock belt looks like. mine def. needed a custom length. shorter then stock. but I also have an underdrive pulley on the crank, so my length prolly wouldnt be right for you. I'll try to get it up in the air tomorrow night and take some pics for you.
Old May 12, 2007 | 04:27 PM
  #27  
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If this bolts in place, of your compressor, then what happens to your alternator? I thought this was suppose to relocate your alternator?
Old May 12, 2007 | 05:00 PM
  #28  
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The alternator does not move, the only thing you are messing with is the compressor.
Old May 12, 2007 | 05:41 PM
  #29  
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yeah, there are alt. relocator kits that move the alt. down in place of the a/c, and the delete pulley goes up high in place of the alt. orig. location. but were talking about just a normal, a/c delete pulley.
Old May 12, 2007 | 06:01 PM
  #30  
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Gotcha..You wouldn't know, if there is a part # for the alternator relocator kit would ya? Thats what I originally wanted to do. Doh!
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