Buying Rockers
Buying Rockers
Considering the 1.6 roller rockers, what brand is the best and will they pass emissions? I'm in Delaware and they are pretty tough. Only other mods are SLP CAI. Car is an 94 Z A4 with 3.23 gears. Car pulls stronger than my ex's 99 LS1 conv. Hoping to take it to the track soon.
Re: Buying Rockers
I've got Comp's self-aligning Pro Mags... You could also go for the non-self-aligning, but it'll cost a bit more and your application sounds pretty mild. These alone shouldn't have any bearing on emissions passability.
Re: Buying Rockers
The comps are steel, any opinion which is better alum or steel? I have heard to get the self aligning. Does my car take the 7/16 stud? And should I replace the valve springs? The car has only 55K miles and was a one owner babied stock piece. I drive it about 1,000 miles a month now, shares duty with my truck. Down the road I'm doing headers and exhaust but have to keep it emmision legal. I bought it cause I missed my LS-1 that my ex wife got in the divorce and I could afford this one. Love the torque of the Lt-1 better, looking for 300HP at the rear wheels down the road. I can't wait to spank her boyfriend in her 99 Z conv.
Re: Buying Rockers
Comps are steel which are a bit stronger, they are deisgned to actually be lighter on the valve compared to aluminum also. And stock rocker studs are 7/16". To go with NSA (Non-Self Aligning) you'd need pushrods,guideplates, and 3/8" rocker studs. SA (Self-Aligning) will be good for 300rwhp easily. Usally we recomend if going over .525 lift or so to go the NSA route.
Re: Buying Rockers
I was told that you'll be close to bind with the stock springs, and considering the mileage they had on them I upgraded to LT4 springs. The springs are cheap, like $30-40 cheap, so it's a good safety measure. Oh, and it adds several more painful steps to the process if you're doing this with the engine still in the car
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oldschool
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Feb 9, 2016 09:21 PM



