Henson071

Ok I was going to just put heads and cam in my car but my buddy advised me to put new rings and seals in to freshen up the motor, now he wants to find a LT1, and build a 383 for me. I can get the bare block for 150, and I still want to use my original plan of stock ported heads and intake, with a cc503 cam. Am I on the right track? Whats my best deal for beginning with a bare block. I have a good machine shop thats gives me a great deal, but I dont really want to break the bank too much. Id like to stick with my valvetrain plan I already have( LS7 lifters, CC 1.6 pro mags, beehive springs, cc503), but dont know whats the cheapest way to build the bottom end. Any advice would be appreciated!!! Or links to some decent parts.

RamAir95TA

How much do you have to spend on the bottom end alone?

Do you want to stay N/A or go with boost/n2o?

Do you have a power goal?

Lots of questions to be answered. A 383 will need to eat up more duration than what the 503 can provide, especially with ported stock heads. I'd definitely step up to something with more duration. Why not give AI or LE a call and let them suggest something for you?

If you want a solid foundation, expect to spend around $3k for a forged bottom end (new rods, crank, bearings, pistons, etc.) including machine work. If you wanted, you could reuse your stock crank and rods and use a forged aluminum piston (355 ci) for around half the cost, if you plan on staying N/A.

Henson071

I want it to be somewhat streetable still, but I want high 11's out of it. If I could reuse my stock crank and even upgrade rods and pistons that would be fine. I dont want to spend a lot, luckily I got a good mechanic and machine shop as friends. Going N/A no spray, maybe a 50 shot down the road, but want to be all motor. What kind of power gains could I expect from a 355 compared to a 350?

Henson071

I want to put down 400 at least to the wheels...I'm at 290-300 with my mods right now

boosted-lt1

My 2 cents:

Clean & Mag block. Align hone main bores. Bore and hone block with deck plates. Deck block.

Use the stock crank and stock 2-bolt caps with APR studs. Get some Scat 4340 I beam rods and your choice of forged piston.

Boring a 350 (4.000" bore) to a 355 (4.030" bore) is not done to increase power per se. The main purpose is to re-finish the bores and make sure they are round when a head is bolted on (simulated with deck plates). The extra 5 inches might be worth 5hp at 1hp/CI. Most of any positive results will come from the proper machine work allowing better ring seal & less blow by.

-Scott.

Robwhartlt1

Well I think with your cam and heads you will have about what I have and add a 50 shot on d/r you should put down high 11s.