I chose to use the 2-bolt as a base instead of the 4-bolt, because if I buy a 4-bolt block, the bolts are not splayed. Plus, I figure I will have to get the block machined either way. I will use a 3.875" crank from eagle forged, 6" h-beams, not sure on the pistons yet because I have to select heads first. I will also be going with a pro-ram or victor single-plane.

I'm looking at dart pro lt1's, but I am just looking for something to buy already ported, and not have to send off. It comes down to a set of LE3's or darts. Judging by the price difference $1k for the darts compared to $2k, I would go with the darts. Then again, I am assuming I would be missing out on some serious power. Then again, I believe the darts will be more useful when I do my next build and want to drop serious money on porting.

My goal with this setup is to be able to run 10.9xx all motor with a 12-bolt and slicks.

 

I would get the darts and send them to LE latter.

 

I would suggest not using Eagle rods. Not saying they won't do the job, but the rod bolt profile is rather tall. My machine shop suggested Compstars instead where the bolt profile is approx .100 shorter which makes all the difference in the world. They were able to clearence my block w/out tapping into a water jacket. I don't know if I'd go with an Eagle crank either. I have one and I have to use an oversized pilot bushing and had to have a stock flywheel reemed out to fit over the locating ring on the crank. Didn't seem like QC showed up that day...
As far as heads go... dunno man.. it's a personal choice. I'm using a set of LPE CNC LT4 heads ported for a 383 and 211/219 cam. Don't have any numbers yet (needs a tune/just bought a house/no time to screw w/ car), but I've been told by a few people who've done SR strokers that my heads will work just fine, however they may choke the snot out of this engine and make it run like a real turd. If it were me in your situation then I'd go with the less expensive heads. They may work for you just as well as "serious money" ported heads. It's more or less a crap shoot. It'd really suck to spend 3 or more thousand dollars (I was quoted this from a reputable shop for a port job for my setup) and have them perform as well as something that cost half as much. When I was seeking advice that's what some wise old bird told me. That way if they don't work I can always save up and take the plunge on some aftermarket castings.
10's are a tall order N/A. It can be done, but you're getting into solid roller/susp. tweaking/tall gears/28" tire/possible weight reduction territory. Two combos which I'm fairly familiar with is Jordon Musser and Jason Short. Jordon ran 10.8's @ 130 in a 401cid SR and Jason was in the very low 11's @ 126 w/ a 396cid SR. There is a "fastest LT1" thread around here somewhere and you'll be able to see some info on setups and the times they ran.

 

It will for sure be light weight. I'm building the engine package first, the I will use a stripped down Trans Am. I will leave in the front seats, AC, and CD player, but everything else comes out. I will also be using a firberglass cowl hood.

 

"I'm looking at dart pro lt1's, but I am just looking for something to buy already ported, and not have to send off. It comes down to a set of LE3's or darts. Judging by the price difference $1k for the darts compared to $2k, I would go with the darts. Then again, I am assuming I would be missing out on some serious power. Then again, I believe the darts will be more useful when I do my next build and want to drop serious money on porting."


Umm, I believe that you'll have to send Lloyd the heads for the LE3. I'd start with the Dart casting for an engine that large, not saying that LE3 stock castings wouldn't do well. I think we have some guys here that can attest to that, but I'd still start with bare Darts and send them to Lloyd.

 

Don't be cheap and use eagle junk.
I have an expensive pile of scrap parts after my 396 built with Eagle components failed #4 main bearing.

 

How was the Eagle to blame for a spun bearing?

 

b/c he did not set up oil clearance correctlly.

Eagle is not the best...but it is good stuff.

The thing about the rod bolts..we mill the heads down.

I main bearing failure sounds like it was too tight. Could you turn the crank by hand with all the caps torqued?




As far as heads.......If your not willing to drop 5 grand then why bother building a bottom end with crap heads on it. search quikshottimber he went 10 on stock short block

 

Quickshot's car was badass...What ever happened to him?

--Alan

 

Think he got married or something........but his combo was so simple..nothing special just all the right stuff and it worked......So why not copy it

 

You're right, it's not Eagle's fault. It's mine for my part choice, Eagle rods are a bad choice for a stroker application. One of the other posters mentioned this also.
My story was the rods required alot of clearancing and the block got too thin.
It looked fine and held coolant pressure.....for a while. A couple of hundred heat cycles later, and coolant in the oil, low oil pressure on 1 pass, and that's all it took to start feeling a "vibration".

 

I thought he just posted a few months ago about making 6xxrwhp w/ LPE heads/N20 and stuff...

It was me who mentioned the rod clearance thing. Sorry that had to happen. It could've been me as well, but my machine shop thought it was best to go with an alternative. Eagle stuff isn't bad. I can handle power, but from what I've seen and from what I've read you basically get what you pay for.

 

I used all eagle stuff in my 383, but thats the reason I went 383 instead of 396. didnt want to use block cement or worry about them cracking/leaking later either. and didnt want to invest a ton on money extra just to gain like 10-13cid more. extra cubes helps, but not when stock castings and intakes are gonna restrict the air flow anyways. but in your case Id def. go with the aftermarket castings/larger ports and more capability to go larger later if you wanted to. I wouldnt think 10's N/A should be too big of a deal if your goin to set the car up for drag raceing. look at aba383's car. he's already close, and full weight, and he's got a small cam.