building a 383 stroker
#1
building a 383 stroker
I planning on building a 383 stroker, i did a search and have noticed that people use both 5.7" and 6.0" rods in their strokers...if i was to use a 6" rod what pistons should i be using to avoid clearance issues..also what would the difference in compression be between the 5.7" and 6" rods with the strock 54cc heads..i was thinking of using the Wiesco tru-forged pistons from summit part#WIS-PT017H3 and the Manley forged aluminum 6"connecting rods part #MAN-14006-8. I'll also be using the summit 383 stroker crank part#SES-3-51-05-002..What do you guys think about these parts?
Thanks
Tony
Thanks
Tony
#2
NEVER EVER USE ALUMINUM RODS!!!!!! Unless you plan on rebuilding the engine after every trip to the track or after a hot summer of street driving. They will stretch. You must use steel for a street car/ occasional racer.
As far as the crank, I wouldn't trust anyone but a well known name and I don't know who makes the cranks for Summit. Some exceptional names are Calies, Scat, Lunati, Cola also but they have been having problems lately. The one your talking about (SES-3-51-05-002) is cast. You may want the stronger forged crank since your going to the trouble of building a better bottom end, you might as well go all the way.
The pistons you will need will depend largely on the compression ratio that you wish to achieve. The pistons you're talking about will not have a clearance issue (unless you have some super wild cam spec) but you don't know the CR exactly. The problem is that they advertise 10.7:1 but they don't tell you the chamber size that will achieve that CR. Try looking here http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...26&prmenbr=361
This is just a start. I would highly suggest that you talk to someone at a place like Nu-tek or TPIS. The folks there eat, sleep and what ever else with LT1's. I also suggest you buy a balanced assembly since it can be hard and or expensive to balance seperately purchased components.
Good luck to you, I hope you get what you want.
As far as the crank, I wouldn't trust anyone but a well known name and I don't know who makes the cranks for Summit. Some exceptional names are Calies, Scat, Lunati, Cola also but they have been having problems lately. The one your talking about (SES-3-51-05-002) is cast. You may want the stronger forged crank since your going to the trouble of building a better bottom end, you might as well go all the way.
The pistons you will need will depend largely on the compression ratio that you wish to achieve. The pistons you're talking about will not have a clearance issue (unless you have some super wild cam spec) but you don't know the CR exactly. The problem is that they advertise 10.7:1 but they don't tell you the chamber size that will achieve that CR. Try looking here http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...26&prmenbr=361
This is just a start. I would highly suggest that you talk to someone at a place like Nu-tek or TPIS. The folks there eat, sleep and what ever else with LT1's. I also suggest you buy a balanced assembly since it can be hard and or expensive to balance seperately purchased components.
Good luck to you, I hope you get what you want.
#3
I am using a Lunati crank which I think is great. I got it from ebay with only 1000 miles on it for a good price. If I didn't find that I would of used a Callies crank. I was also using SRP pistons which work very well and aren't too expensive. I have now went to their JE piston because I added a blower and need to drop the compression. I was also using Lunati steel rods which came with the crank. I have since upgraded to Eagle H beams. They handle a lot of horsepower and are relatively inexpensive. I originally ordered 90% of my parts from Nu-Tek Motorsports. Nick is very knowledgable. REcently I haven't been able to get a hold of them and nobody is returning my phone calls from there. I have been dealing with Combination Motorsports (because they are an ATI dealer) and they seem very knowledgable of the LT1s. www.cmotorsports.com.
#5
In regards to your 5.7 or 6.0 rod questions, I wouldn't use a 6.0 rod in a forced induction application. It compresses the ring lands too much IMO. If your strictly NA, then I'd use the 6.0 rods, and use 5.7 or 5.85 rods with a blower/nitrous motor.
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