Hey guys, well, I finally decided to go with a 383. I am looking for input from everyone to make sure I start bolting on the right parts. I have worn out the search button on here so this is what I am looking at doing:

.030 over block
SRP forged pistons 10.4 CR
Eagle Forged Steel crank 3.75"
Eagle H beam rods
Edelbrock heads 170cc 54cc (I know, close to stocker)
Cam: looking at 114 lobe and around a 510 lift (need help on this one)
Edelbrock 58mm TB
Stock intake will be port matched
LT4 Knock sensor
1.5 roller rockers
ARP bolts
9 puck stage 4 clutch from clutch master

Everything in my sig will bolt back on.

I know the ponys are made up top but still trying to keep this a somewhat DD. Any input would be great before I start tightening up the bolts. My goal is 450rwhp. After the break-in, I'll bump up the MAF,inj, and pump. What do you think? Thanks for all the input on engine selection. This site has been the best advice.

 

You should not decide on the CR until you pick the cam. Keep searching, try "dynamic compression ratio" for a search term.

Rich

 

Rich, thanks for that. I should have specified. I am running pump gas and NOT looking at forced induction. I am not locked on to 10.4, just something I came across. Thanks again.

Troy

 

You will need a small cam with those heads. Plan on making peak hp at about 5,500rpm. Do the heads have springs and do you plan to use them?

Rich

 

The heads are complete with valves/springs/retainers etc... My goal is to find a balance between DD and Xcross setup. Should I up the flow of my heads? I want to maximize the size of the motor without making it a full-on off road machine. Money is tight but I have set aside 9k for the build. What do you think? Possible or am I crazy? Thanks again.

T

 

With that combo I would say you might make 350rwhp but probably not even that.
Heads are all important and you picked the wrong ones.
You are way the hell off on the cam too. 114 would be a mistake as would limiting yourself to .510 lift.
Probably going to want to go with 1.6 roller rockers but pick them to match the cam and heads you decide on(which you hopefully reconsider).

What do you mean by this?
"After the break-in, I'll bump up the MAF,inj, and pump. "
The MAF should be left alone, you will need bigger injectors, and the stock fuelpump will be unlikely to feed this if even built halfway well, my heads/cam motor maxed out 28lbs stock is 24. It almost sounded to me like you though that crap would take care of tuning which it will not, you NEED pcm reprogramming.

You can run a lot more compression than that even in a daily driver, cam selection is something you need to take into consideration but done right you are looking at 11:1 easily maybe even more. I run 11.5 on my heads/cam stock shortblock motor which would walk all over this mistake you have planned.

I know you didn't like reading that but if you listen you will save money and go faster.

 

This is exactly why I post here and ask all the question now instead after the fact. I want to here the mistakes before I make them so thank you and no, I take no offense to any of it.

The reason for the stock fuel/inj was to keep it from flooding out the cylinders since I wont turn the motor up hard during the break in. I was told the stock set up would be safe for the break in period. Didn't know about the MAF.

What H/C would you put on this set up? Glad to see people help instead of laughing at their mistakes.

T

 

Dwayne, just reread your reply. I do plan on reprogramming the PCM but thanks for looking out

 

450rwhp is not really realistic for a daily driver for the average guy, there are shops that can help you get there but it will take an above average skilled enthusiast to put it together and make it actually happen.

If looking at forged consider the Compstar rotating assemblies, not cheap but already being balanced and being so complete makes them a good buy.
Heads and cam I like www.advancedinduction.com search this board and you should turn up some awesome results. Search might now pull up a lot though because everyone just calls them AI and I think that is too short a term to search.

The pcm work has to be done with the injectors in mind and the programmed for injectors NEED to be in it when it runs. Try to start a car tuned for 24lbs injectors but have 30lbs installed and you are likely to wash down the walls doing damage to them the rings and dilute the oil enough damage bearings.
Tune for 36lbs and have the 24lbs. installed and it will be fatally lean. Do the fuel system at the same time as the motor and program for it and all will be fine.
Need to be looking at gears too, I know everyone worries about milage but with the T56 .50 OD you can go pretty wild on the gears before fuel economy suffers.

 

What are the specs on the springs? Do you have those heads already or are you just thinking about them?

Rich

 

I don't have the heads yet. With an Eagle forged bottom end, what H/C combo will put me close to 450rwhp?

 

It might be easier to ask what 1/4 mile ET and trap speed you are looking for rather than dyno numbers (if you are at all concerned with track times...) 450 rwhp is a big number especially for a DD...And dyno numbers can be so easily manipulated that they really don't mean a whole lot to me...

I'm with Dwayne to seek a higher comp ratio of at least 11:1...get the stock heads ported and have 2.00/1.56 valves installed then pick your cam based on head flow...I'm partial to small cams for throttle response, and making great power w/o spinning the thing to the moon to do it...I used Joe Overton and E.B. Porting to do my heads and pick the cam and am very pleased with all aspects of how my car performs both on the street and at the track. I still get 20 mpg on the highway! Don't waste your money on the Edelbrocks, you can get way better results with properly ported stockers...I still use the factory fuel pump and run 30 lb injectors and obviously tuning is mandatory...Also ask around different builders and get their take on Eagle's stuff. I'm partial to Callies, Oliver and JE, but they are more $$$$, however, I'm on my 12th year with the same bottom end untouched since 1995! Check the sponsor's listing and call them for recommendations, too...Good luck with the build...

--Alan

 

LE3 or the AI 190CC's
if you want daily driver, look more into the LE2 w/ a LE4 cam, or the AI 180CC combo, either one should work nicely for you

 

We build many short blocks using Eagle componants and have been happy with their outcome. Compstar is another nice alternative if the budget doesn't allow the use of Callies, Diamond, Oliver and other more expensive manufacturers.

 

...and there you have it from the "horses mouth" so to speak...I know I'm overbuilt, but I'm also a long term test dummy for the higher dollar/quality stuff..Of course it also has to with meticulous maintenance and only reving to 6300...

I've heard good stuff from from Victory Racing Engines...ask them what they think...

--Alan