Buidling 383, oil cooler question
Buidling 383, oil cooler question
Well my 383 is nearing completion and the engine shop is getting ready to prime to the motor with oil soon. My question is in regards to the oil cooler. My TA has one, should i put a NEW one on ($250 new from Jason Cromer) or get one off a board member? Do these things ever fail? What can go wrong with them? Curious, dont really wannt spend that cash for a new one, but will if i HAVE to. OR even better, is there a diffrent route to cool the oil that everyone else is using?
Re: Buidling 383, oil cooler question
If i remember right, you don't really even need an oil cooler. Oil doesn't need to be that cool in fact it usually works better if the oil is hotter. Most people take theirs off during rebuilds.
Wait for someone else's answer on this cause i could be wrong. try doing a search under oil coolers.
I certainly wouldn't want to spend 250 bucks for an oil cooler if i didn't need it.
Wait for someone else's answer on this cause i could be wrong. try doing a search under oil coolers.
I certainly wouldn't want to spend 250 bucks for an oil cooler if i didn't need it.
Re: Buidling 383, oil cooler question
The stock oil cooler is a potential liability as the oil has to pass through a small screen; if this screen plugs up (RTV or gasket material from a rebuild) there's a potential to oil strave the engine. Also the cooler design provides minimal thermal transfer. I deleted mine.
Re: Buidling 383, oil cooler question
As you may be able to see, they are not very popular 
The oil does need to get to a certain thermal temp to be effective. Thats why most race cars that run any kind of endurance race use a oil warmer. Unless your runnign WOT all day, or road race it, I'd skip it.
-Shannon

The oil does need to get to a certain thermal temp to be effective. Thats why most race cars that run any kind of endurance race use a oil warmer. Unless your runnign WOT all day, or road race it, I'd skip it.
-Shannon
Re: Buidling 383, oil cooler question
You need the radiator hose that runs from the bottom left of the rad to the waterpump. You also have to either A) Hack off the studs (dremel) when you remove the cooler or B) Go to the hardware store and get the right bolts. You'll see what I'm talking about when you pull the cooler. There are two bolts that also act as guidepins for the cooler and they won't allow the filter to tighten down once you remove the cooler.
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dbusch22
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