Not everyone out there has a million dollars to spend on an engine buildup. I'm in the process of trying to round up the parts for my build-up and really would like to know if a budget stroker is really possible? I've heard quite a few folks talk about the scat crank and their added strength over a stock crank, not to mention their much lower cost. I wouldn't mind doing a 355 but really would like the added torque of the extra cubes of the 383 being as this will be a street driven car. At what point will the scat crank be limited, horsepower wise, and will it stand up to the rigors of bracket racing every weekend? My goal is to make around 400 rwhp N/A with this combo. This should be enough to get me into the mid 11s while staying emmissions legal. If it isn't necessary for me to spend 1k on a crank at this power level, I'd prefer to save that money and invest it in suspension mods.

 

Easy enough on the stock bottom-end. And no, you don't need a forged crank.

You can make 400 rwhp easily... it's in the heads and cam.

A 383 can be built cheap and yeah, it'll make more torque even at the same hp. We don't know your budget, so who can really say which is the best route for you. With the stroker, you add the cost of the crank (cast) and the pistons. Either build would call for new rods, head porting, cam, gaskets, machining (if doing a rebuild), you get the picture. Should be able to put together a ~450 rwhp 383 on a budget, most of the money in the heads and valvetrain.

Bret has a GP going on a 383 package. If you can't do your own work, then that's a good deal. He uses the same stuff I would have used to put a reliable budget engine together and I think it's a very reasonably priced package.
From my standpoint, I could put one together much cheaper but that is because I'd do my own work (with exception of the machining). If you can't do that then you have to be willing to spend a bit more $$.

Again, give us your budget and we can get into more specifics.

-Mindgame

 

Do you have a block that has already been machined?If not talk to your local builder and get the cost.You could do this yourself with some time free but you will need at least a die grinder and a carbide bit.There are enough pistons out there that will take a stock 5.7 rod that will work.So other than a crank and slugs you dont have any other big money parts. Dont forget the new flexplate or flywheel, a balancer for the gen 1 small blocks.

A set of hyperutectic pistons and some arp waveloc rod bolts, main studs (at least some new main bolts) will be a welcome addition.Stay away from the cast stuff out there..It may be cheap but its not worth the effort to save some cash.If money allows wiseco offers forged slugs with moly faced top rind and pins under $500..You would however have to get your rods bushed for floating pins so there is more cost to it..I would also factor in the cost of getting the assembly balanced..If you must buy the parts a peice at a time.A complete rotating assembly that has been balanced would be the way to go so other than some grinding of the block it would drop in.

Scat cranks are way better than trying to gring down some old beat to death 400 crank..My local supplier has them for $220They also have eagles avail for a few dollars more..From what ive gathered the eagles dont need much reworking with heavy metal..Ive used a few stock replacement scat cranks before and they seemed ok.

Your in luck if your building an LT1 as the rods are good as they get for stock stuff..If not then it may be better to buy a new set..

 

The cost of getting stock rods reworked is still going to run you about the same as a set of Scat's I beams and you will have a weaker rod for about the same money.

For a LT1 based motor, yeah the KB pistons are good, just used them in a 422rwhp LT1. The only thing we would have liked to upgrade there were the pistons to a forged setup.

We do have a stroker GP going on like Mindgame said, most of your homework is done for you there.

Bret

 

Dave, You dont state why you need to do a rebuild. If your current setup is toast a stroker setup is understandable, but if it is just to get to your quoted 400rwhp mark i have to ask why. Many have made 400rwhp or more on the stock bottom end with just a good heads/cam setup.

But as far as a stroker for that amount of power you dont anything expensive. The budget complete rotating assembly that Bret has in the GP is $1200. That is great for what you get. But it really depends on what you want to do and how much your budget is.

But i will move this to LT1 Tech, as general stroker buildups are suited for that forum. Thanks.

 

Man I just gotta say thats a phenominal stock time .

 

The reason for the rebuild is because one of the stock rods let go and almost came through the oil pan. I already have heads and will be looking for a larger cam than I currently have. I do have a block going into the machine shop as we speak. Because I have to deal with emmissions, it doesn't make any sense for me to go with a cam will not be ozone friendly. I know I won't be making that much power with an emmissions legal cam but I'm hoping to pick up .5 second with the extra cubic inches and a slightly larger cam.