Well I had a thrust bearing go out in my engine. I am suspecting I atleast need a new crank anyways. Well I was thinking about doing a stroker kit while I was at it. The engine is already 30 over. I am just assuming that it may need bored again. I dont know exactly what kit or what individual parts I need to get. Also I want to keep clearancing to a minimum. If you guys have part #'s and costs of your set ups that would be greatly appreciated. Any advice on doing this would help out tons too.

 

I don't really know how things will clearence however this is what I have with prices (some prices are rough because they are combined together)

clevite H serious main and rod bearings-$120
JE pistons and rings-$870
Compstar 3.75 crank (same stroke you need)-$600
Timining chain-$330
Pro mag rockers & arp studs-$295
PAC 1218 springs, retainers,lockers, locators-$290
Lunati cam-$340 (can get cheaper off ebay but I needed it 2ed day
Gasket set-$240
Racetronix 42lb injectors-$339
Pacesetter lt-$420
AC delete pulley-$40~
4 bolt splayed mains-$500 (think thats what it was dont quote me)
Balanceing-$175

As for what you need, what I can think of off the top of my head is make sure the crank is a 1 peice seal. Also can you elaborate a little more on your plans, do you just want a 383? Or do you have future plans such as Forced induction or nitrous?
If you just want a 383. Id look into the compstar kits, they come with mahle pistons I think though, Or if you wanted cheaper alot of people like the eagle rotateing assemblys. However, if your on a tight budget maybe look into some non forged items.

 

Agreed. Everyone seems to freakazoid about hyper pistons such but they do work if you are just going NA.

 

Do you plan on n2o use?

 

Wow thats alot of money for a timing chain man, come to think of it alot of those prices you have are pretty up there.

 

You can get a forged SCAT crank for around$550 shipped from ADperformance.com or a cast steel one for around $275 shipped. Thats where I got mine. They also have kits available from $1000 and up. Cast is fine as long as you're not trying to go all out. And it sounds like you're not building a full on crazy drag car but, make sure you have the whole assembly:

crank, pistons, rods all balanced together and to the flexplate/driveplate you're going to run on the car. It can be internally balanced, ie. where you run a neutral balanced flywheel/flexplate (no batman weight ) or you do it externally balanced where you use a flywheel/flexplate with the batman weight.

I am assuming from your mod list, you have some kind of upgraded transmission. They other thing you might want to do is get larger injectors than those 30lb-ers. Maybe 42 or 48lbs. You can reuse your topend, but the CC306 isn't the best for a stroker, while its very good in a high revving 355, ppl DO use them in 383s, but there are more streetable and equally as powerful cams out there. Another thing, I always see/hear is about the rear end for the Camaros is that they break VERY easily with anything over 400hp or so.
So a rear end upgrade may be something to consider, as they are NOT cheap. I don't really know about where to buy one or how much they cost, since I drive a SS Impala.

 

I would get a compstar crank rather than scat. Or even eagle. Both can be had for 600ish.
Than i would go cast of hyper piston. KB's would do fine, and eagle SIR rods(300ish). Theres a cheap setup.


For the top end, do a LE1 or LE2 setup. Or go LE1 with bigger valves, which would be a in between. The cam will be tailored to you needs. So you wont have any driveabiltity issues if you dont want, you lose out on 10hp but again this isnt a all out motor.

 

i have a 383 eagle forged stroker kit i got from a member on ls1tech.com its a 3.75 stroke crank with 6 inch rods and forged srp pistons, it had all bearings and rings. cost wise i have $1250 in the kit, $750 or so for the machine shop to prep the block(bore hone clean paint clearance for stroke) assemble short block and check clearances for bearings and rod to cam, and balance assembly. they also done some other things like clean all my hardware, flexplate, harmonic dampene,r and paint them and got me the right oil pump and drive all with a year warranty on it. all gaskets about $150-$175. 58mm t-body $170 shipped. $250 opti. used stuff i got from a member on ls1tech- heads cam trans and converter $1600. mail order tune load your self from pcmforless $75. all i'm saying with what i have listed that i got is sometimes it pays to get used parts or look for stuff people are selling new cause they couldn't finish their build for what ever reason.

 

Opps, ment timining chain and gear set

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku

350~ there.

EDIT: what other things seem overpriced? You have me curious on if I overpayed lol.

 

I plan on reuseing all the valve train as long as its all still good. Basicly just looking for short block part #'s and costs. I have never clearanced and engine before though. I am trying to cut costs as much as I can without sacrificing reliability. I am not going to run any sort of power adder on this car though. Might put a set of ported heads on it down the way but thats about it.

 

Just run one of the cheap cast eagle or scat kits with hyper pistons. Have the machine shop go over it (journal taper, roundness etc) and have them check the balance if it comes pre balanced. Have the machine shop also do the clearancing then bring it home and put it together. You do not need forged anything for what you are doing, the show will be all over by 6000rpm with stock heads on top of it with that cam anyway. Cam clearance is the only thing you might struggle with but it will may clear if you get the scat cap screw rods they have a little better clearance than the eagles. Just run some sane compression like 11:1 or so to avoid pinging with the hyper slugs because they really dont like that.

Have a valve job done and the heads milled back flat again and have the guides checked out while the heads are off. Get yourself some arp head bolts or new stockers, as the stock bolts are not reusable.

After all that you should be good to go for quite awhile.

 

i would totally agree a scat cast crank is IMO one of the better ones out there and they are right around the 250 mark
you can find a set of rods that will hold up very well on ebay for 150-300 depending on i or h beams then you can even find some cheaper forged pistons if you want to spray it for around 300 or hypers for 200
either way a stroker for less than a grand aint bad just keep in mind when buying the cheaper parts have your machine shop check them over you may have to have a couple rods re done and the crank polished do to the lack of quality control on the cheap stuff but getting that done will save you a lot of worry after the motor is done

 

Do you guys have any links or part #'s for these scat or eagle kits?

 

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294890201

eagle kit, double check make sure it will work on a lt1, but i checked and said it did. You can get the scat kits the same way, just go to summit and it basicly narrows it down for you. You can also get forged pistons with them I believe, I just chose the hypers for budget.

 

if you want budget go 355 imo with summit forged rebuild kit

stock crank/rods hold alot more power than people give them credit for, the pistons and rod bolts are the weak links