Buddy has a problem....
#1
Buddy has a problem....
He doesn't have internet so I am gonna throw this out to see what you guys can offer as far as help suggestions ect. He keeps blowing the 20A fuse below ign fuse....he said it was ecm/pcm sensor fuse??? Maybe engine sensor fuse....But at any rate...He said it had something to do with the MAF , MAP, SKIP SHIFT..He says when it blows he MAP sensor just goes dead,and his MAF shows some funky readings, of coarse he get SES light , for the 3 .
He has since changed the MAP sensor, traded the MAF for a stock one , and Bryan (PCM FOR LESS) deleted his ship shift in his new computer.... He pulled the wiring harness to check for bare wires ...None to be found. He went ahead and checked voltage to everything ....everything checks out ok He says he can change the fuse runs good for a mile or so and the fuse blows.....What can you guys suggest he tries???
He has since changed the MAP sensor, traded the MAF for a stock one , and Bryan (PCM FOR LESS) deleted his ship shift in his new computer.... He pulled the wiring harness to check for bare wires ...None to be found. He went ahead and checked voltage to everything ....everything checks out ok He says he can change the fuse runs good for a mile or so and the fuse blows.....What can you guys suggest he tries???
#3
He keeps blowing the 20A fuse below ign fuse....he said it was ecm/pcm sensor fuse???
There is an engine sensor fuse in the underhood fuse block that is 20AMP but it's below the 15AMP injector fuse.
That fuse powers the O2s, MAF, the reverse lockout solenoid and the skip shift solenoid.
If that's the one he's talking about then he should check the O2 wires for shorts to ground particularly around the exhaust manifold.
He can also unplug all the listed components, put in a good fuse and connect the devices one at a time until he gets to the bad component. However, if the wire going to that component is shorted, that won't work. He could also use a circuit breaker instead of the fuse to temporarily help trouble shoot the problem. My advice is to use an ammeter in the fuse block to monitor the current as he removes and replaces the components on that circuit. Again, if the wires to that device are shorted to ground, removing the component will not uncover the problem. His best bet is visual and watching the meter as he pulls and twists wires. I think it's one of the O2 wires burned.
Good luck
There is an engine sensor fuse in the underhood fuse block that is 20AMP but it's below the 15AMP injector fuse.
That fuse powers the O2s, MAF, the reverse lockout solenoid and the skip shift solenoid.
If that's the one he's talking about then he should check the O2 wires for shorts to ground particularly around the exhaust manifold.
He can also unplug all the listed components, put in a good fuse and connect the devices one at a time until he gets to the bad component. However, if the wire going to that component is shorted, that won't work. He could also use a circuit breaker instead of the fuse to temporarily help trouble shoot the problem. My advice is to use an ammeter in the fuse block to monitor the current as he removes and replaces the components on that circuit. Again, if the wires to that device are shorted to ground, removing the component will not uncover the problem. His best bet is visual and watching the meter as he pulls and twists wires. I think it's one of the O2 wires burned.
Good luck
#4
The info I got from him wasn't the best because he was at work trying to explain....So what all is running off that circuit???? It happens to blow the fuse after he drives it for just a short period of time......
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Castro
3rd Gen / L98 Engine Tech
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08-05-2002 08:02 AM