Car starts up and runs fine, then after it warms it'll cut-out when you hit the throttle, and it will die randomly while idling. It always starts back up.

No codes.

Replaced fuel filter
fuel pump
O2
ICM
Coil
MAP


with no codes its hard to say what could be the problem...anyone ever experience this? Any Ideas?

Thanks.

 

Always a good idea to include the year, model, engine, trans and any major mods. Why not add a "signature" with that info?

 

yeah, I realized that after I posted it, I was leaving somewhere and wanted to throw it up before I left...sorry.

1993 lt1 6spd, pretty much stock

 

how hot is it getting?

 

temp is fine, right where it should be.

 

aybe this will help?

1993 z28 m6. All stock except for flowmaster
For two days when outside temp was 10 degrees the car would not
Start first day I shot either to get it started second day I just kept trying
And it started,and while trying the best the car did was stumble kinda
Like letting me know "hey I'm trying but cant"
Since its warmed up it takes generally two tries then starts
Take it for a test drive and all is well then 5 miles down the road the
Car starts to stumble. Applying more pedal seems to help but between gears
You get a taste of whiplash! Then as you approach a stop sign the car goes
Into fits and dies and fires back up with no problem clears up a bit
Then starts acting up again and always starts up but does die soon after it finds idle
I did notice when revving motor the tach is real etchy and slow to climb then clears up
And dies
I put my fuel gauge on it and key on 50psi and drops to about 45 after prime. Waited an hour it only dropped
To 35psi. Car running 40 psi wot 50psi. Vacuum off fpr 50. When car starts
Acting up the fuel pressure always held and never dropped
Iac map o2 ect icm coil x2. Oh and tps. All been replaced within the past week
I have fumbled with keys/ignition and cannot make it do this
The opti spark was claimed to be replaced but after all that has been done and
Checked I believe it is bad again? The car has never backfired either through intake or exhaust

Sorry for long post but information is information

 

Sounds like your Opti is in need of replacement.

 

Ok I agree. But what if I test opti according to shbox.com and test the low/high res
Before it acts up then get it up to temp to see if it does it and everything checks
Out then where do I go?

 

One other thing to check would be the temp sensor for the PCM. I know on later years there's a separate sensor for the gauge and PCM. I had a faulty wire on the one for my PCM and it gave me similar problems.

I don't remember if the 93s had separate ones; or which was which. I know there's one in the waterpump and one in the drivers side head. I think the WP one is for the PCM.

 

I replaced both sensors. And the one in wp is the one to ecm

These problems were going on before I bought car as I was told it was the icm
But after all was replaced. It is still there and seems to be getting worse
When its up to temp. Car acts like a light switch

So I will check wire going from ect to ecm and see what's up.
I think the code flasher doesn't work either

 

Sounds like an opti. Also, how old are the plug wires?

 

the prior did it within 6 months to a year ago i think...but was told the kit didn't have a coil wire with it..

i was on phone earlier and now home so maybe i can explain a little more.

the other night i popped hood and looked down at the coil area to see anything strange

i seen a faint blue glow on the coil square that supposed to be ground right?..so i spit on it lol and sparks were forming and i did see some sparks on the coil wire going to cap???
so i'm not 100% sure what to make of this...none of my vehicals ever did this..

i really do appreciate the help i'm getting cause this has beat me up lol

 

ok terminal A is 12.12 and D is 12.12....and cranking on B was 2.26

by that it saying optic checks are ok so i guess i need to get car up to temp and see?

or does it matter?

 

The blue sparking is not normal at all.

The test that is on Shoebox's website tests the low-voltage/optical part of the opti, the high-voltage section (spark plug voltage) could still be shot, and this is what normally fails.

Why temperature is having an effect, I'm not sure.

 

See that's what I thought. But when it acts up
The evil in me floors it and at wot. It just keeps on going
No issues or breaking up at all.

When I figure this out I will be king of lt1 knowledge. Lol