LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Broken torque arm!?

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Old Apr 24, 2004 | 07:13 PM
  #1  
12sec97Z28's Avatar
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From: Katy, TX
Broken torque arm!?

Could lowering my car have caused the top bar on my torque arm to snap right in front of the rear end mount and destroy the rest of the rear end mounting bracket? It seems the top rear bolt (12 bolts have 4 bolts, not 2 big ones) backed out and caused this.

Last edited by 12sec97Z28; Apr 24, 2004 at 07:34 PM.
Old Apr 24, 2004 | 07:47 PM
  #2  
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Never heard of anything like it.
Old Apr 24, 2004 | 08:02 PM
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That's what happened to mine (See the suspension section, my post re: Broken Sphoon TA)

You're supposed to Red Lock-Tite in the bolts when using a Moser. That's what Sphoon told me when I contacted them. It's $25 or so for a replacement bracket.
Old Apr 24, 2004 | 08:03 PM
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No, but those bolts are known to back out on 12-bolts if not lock-tighted/Wire-Locked...

Even if they are, they should be periodically checked...
Old Apr 24, 2004 | 08:09 PM
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12sec97Z28's Avatar
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I agree 97Formula. They were locktited like a MF, but I guess when I started getting out of the racing scene, I started letting stuff like that slip slightly. Stupid priorities.
Old Apr 24, 2004 | 08:26 PM
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I'm drilling and wire-tieing the bolts when I get my 12-bolt... I've got the BMR TA going in at the same time...

That'll prevent it for sure...that way I don't ever have to think about them again...
Old Apr 24, 2004 | 08:32 PM
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Did the same to mine when i installed my 12 bolt about a month later i was on it hit second....and bammmm WTF, look @ rear end and looks like the rear was twisted. Got under car and saw the 2 bolts on top of the tq arm was ripped out of the holes. The stock tq arm is a POS anyways.
Old Apr 24, 2004 | 09:32 PM
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12sec97Z28's Avatar
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Originally posted by bski224
Did the same to mine when i installed my 12 bolt about a month later i was on it hit second....and bammmm WTF, look @ rear end and looks like the rear was twisted. Got under car and saw the 2 bolts on top of the tq arm was ripped out of the holes. The stock tq arm is a POS anyways.
What sucks is this wasn't stock. This was an Edelbrock!

Formula- How do you drill and wire tie?
Old Apr 24, 2004 | 10:15 PM
  #9  
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Eldebrocks welds are POS. Check this out:

http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/show...hreadid=234050
Old Apr 24, 2004 | 11:13 PM
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Ohhhh damn, after my stock one broke i got the BMR and im telling ya the thing is pretty damn beefy.
Old Apr 25, 2004 | 12:01 AM
  #11  
PredatorZ28's Avatar
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weld those ****'s
Old Apr 25, 2004 | 07:49 AM
  #12  
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Have you ever heard of wire-tieing bolts?

You drill a hole through the head of the bolts, and you run about a .050 diameter wire through both bolts, You route it such that if one of the bolts start to loosen, it pulls on the other bolt(s) such that it tightens the other bolt(s).

In all professional racing there are rules in place that certian bolts HAVE to be wire-tied/locked. This is why the K&N Oil filters have the Hex flange on the Filter and the hole through the hex, to wire-tie the oil filter to prevent it from comming loose on the track; as an example.

There are guides online on how to do it, and summitracing sells a kit to do it, although you don't really need the kit.
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