Well I got the manifolds out, but when I got to the last bolt nearest the firewall on the drivers side I discovered the bolt was broken. As I got the manifold off I could see it stuck in the head about a 1/4" inside it. What can I do now !! I need to put my MAC's on, so would that one bolt make that much of a difference if I tightened all the others really good and caked RTV around it good? Do you think that 1/4" is enough to get the bolt in?

 

My son and I had the same issue doing a header install on his '94 only we had both back bolts break off on the drivers side. Not sure what the deal is, maybe Chevy didn't put enough anti-seize on those bolts?! We tried to get a drill on the bolts with the engine tilted up and the motor mount removed, couldn't get a clear shot at them. Had to remove the head (what a PITA) and have one bolt drilled out and helicoiled. It turned out that our headers only required one of the broken bolts to be fixed so we decided that we'll probably never do this again and saved the $90 on the second drill out and helicoil. Check your header bolts and make sure you really need that hole. Some are different than the stock manifold.

Good luck!

 

I had the same problem as well on my 94 doing the heads and cam, lucily I was taking the head off anyway and fixed it properly. If you have to take the head off to drill it then fix it right. If you skip the bolt and just use one, it will come back and haunt you and you'll have to do it again. If its worth doing, its worth doing right even if it sucks.

 

Lets hope I dont, but I think I can cut one of my bolts and get it to bite on the 1/4" or so that I have in the head. But I dont think it will really matter that much cause like I said it was already broken, so I'll be used to it if its just a small leak .

 

That is common on LT1s. There are 2 holes on the end ports. The manifolds use the outboard hole, most if not all headers use the inboard hole. As long as the broken bolt is not sticking out of the head it should not be a problem.

 

If you can get a drill in there (probably can rent on with movable chuck and a carbide bit) carefully drill the center of the bolt so that your "easyout" will fit, and back the bolt out. Spray the bolt with liquid wrench AFTER you drill it and BEFORE to attempt to remove it.

If you think it out and are careful, it has been my experience that you can remove most broken bolts. It just seems impossible sometimes. The important part, obviously is being able to drill the bolt, so do what you can to get in a position to do that, i.e., do it right the first time. Once you get that hole in there and spray it good, you should be able to get it out.

Oh...you should put a dimple in the middle of the bolt with a hardened punch first so that you have a place for the drill bit to start. It is important that you use a "hardened" punch so that you are not just pushing on the bolt but actually dimpling the end of the bolt. JMHO

 

WELCOME TOT HE CLUB! same thing happened to me. i pulled the whole head off and i tried to get it out myself with the GREAT "EASY OUT" and i ended up breaking that in there to. that reinforced steel so for a machine shop to get that out fo rme its gonna cost some big bucks $$$. i just put the head back in and put my LT's on. i have to keep you posted if i get any leaks or anything.