Okay:

- Fuel Starvation, I have new Hypertech Adj. Pressure Reg, and new AutoZone filter, but have original pump, whick is 10 years old and is suspected of being weak.

- I know I need gears because theire is a dramatic drop-off after the 2-3 shift, but I know that is no where near my problem, but may be part of it.

- I need to scan it, I have no codes, and 0'2 may not be reading anything because they may not be heating up. Does anyone know how to convert to heated 0's?

-Tempature rises at WOT about 20 degrees till around 235 degrees, then lowers as I begin to cruise. No signs of water in oil, oil came out clean. Cooling system does not pressurize. What could cause heads to heat up that much at WOT. I could be experience glowing headers, but I probably cannot tell because they are JET hot coated.

-Exhaust does not exactly stink, but you could smell raw fuel, and it could kill you if you take a nice deep breath of it. That stuff is strong that my ROT will not even come near the the backside of the car. and the CAR is not loud.

 

The fact that the cooling system does not pressurize makes me think that you have both a bad thermostat and a leaking cap.

The engine temp is going to effect the performance down the track, but I don't know how much.

If the thermostat is sticking closed, then it's going to cause the heads to run hotter, which will likely end up causing some detonation. Your knock sensor bypass might be keeping the PCM from properly adjusting the timing and such to keep out of detonation and knock.

I would replace the thermostat, the radiator cap, and the knock sensor ASAP. Since you're doing the thermostat, you might as well do a full flush and fill on the coolant system.

Stick you some water wetter in there to help bring the temps down as well. That should be a nice start to getting your problems fixed...Take it one step at a time, break this larger problem down into smaller ones and fix them one at a time. Coolant, fuel pressure, etc...

You NEED to cool that engine down first though... If it ends up being a fuel delivery issue and you fix that first, but have lackluster cooling, you could end up doing some damage to the engine...

 

If you are smelling raw fuel that means you are running extremely rich. This will kill ALOT of power.

You said you are running larger injectors with no other form of fuel management besides an FPR.

The problem is quite possibly that the ECU still thinks its using the smaller injectors and it is dumping more fuel than is required.

See if you can get your hands on a wideband o2 sensor and determine your AFR. I suspect it is less than 10:1

I would go ahead and get a dyno tune and trim that fuel mix a bit you should pick up alot of horsepower.

If you have a bit of money to blow I would tune the fuel the right way and get a some engine management.

I hear some people have made this method work for camaros... get an apexi S-AFC and control your fuel the right way at multiple RPM points through injector pulse. One of these units can be picked up used for a little over 200 bucks or new for around $300
You should have no problems running it if you know the right wires to splice.

 

I know it's only been a few days, but is there any word on this?

 

No I have not had time to touch it this week.

This Sunday I will:
-Get a new AC Delco Knock Sensor for a 93'.
-Turn up the fuel pressure to about 46psi at idle, previously 38 psi at idle, and see what happens.
-And also I recently just found out that I have an incorrect thermostat in there. It is a Hypertech, but looks nothing like the one in Shoebox's site.

I ordered a fuel pump, but it will not get here until next week.

And also, i am getting a Auto X-Ray scanner from Summit that is suppose to not only read codes, but read individual sensor information. We will see.

I will have to ask Summit if it works on a 93 though.

Later, I will keep you guys posted is just that I have so busy with work month-end reporting, school finals, and the plain fact I cant stand to see the T/A right now.

 

my friend had a similar problem with his car bogging as he increased speed. it was his fuel pump going out. he had the pressure tested while the car was off and it was fine. however, i guess it was not right when he drove it. a new pump fixed his problem. good luck

 

I got my car scanned today using a friend's generic tool, but it works.

He got it at Auto Zone, it is called Actron or something like that.

Anyways,

I have a max retard of 6 degrees at times under WOT. No retard at idle/cruise.

Also have 108 on Long term BLMS' on both sides. What does this mean?

Short Term Fuel :

Left:108
Right:30

Usually the right tends to be half of the left side reading. Is this split Blm's?

All of the above information is under Closed loop condition.

What can you tell me?

Thanks

 

TTT...for the morning crowd.

Am I running rich or lean.

Post above................

Thanks

 

If your exhaust smells like raw fuel then I would say you are running way to rich. As said above, since you haven't reprogramed your PCM, it still thinks you have #24 injectors, which could be causing it to dump more fuel than you need. I would have the dyno tuned.

 

I have all the tuning necessary. It was tuned by pcm4less, and was adjusted for 30# injectors. He personally let me know.

all i am asking if ....

If my long term fuel (left and right) sit at 108 under closed loop conditions, is my car running rich or lean?

thanks

 

If your temps are rising, you either have a stuck thermo, VERY lean condition, or funky timing. Replace the thermo, get new 02 sensors, and then get your A/F ratio measured ASAP. If your thermo and fuel are ok, then I'd bet your timing is screwed up, either by the cam installed wrong, opti installed wrong, or something funky in the tune.

More reference; I have a cc305, with home ported heads. No tuning, just dynoed 351hp, and ran 12.72 @ 112 on the street tires last week. My heads flow nowhere near 258cfm, so you should be faster than that.

 

Ok, I also got QuadDriver 1 malfunction. What does this do?

 

A 108 BLM is the lowest the PCM can go in trying to remove fuel, so you are running extremely rich. Has your PCM been reprogrammed for the 30lb injectors? If not theres your problem (most likely). Also since its running rich dont increase your FP, it will only make it worse.

-Tony

 

Ok, so it is running pig rich and the pcm is trying to compensate by cutting fuel. Could this cause a hot running condition?

Wouldn't this cause the headers to glow? I may not be seeing this because they are coated. What do you think.

Could this also cause my temp gauge to rocket 10 - 20 degrees only at WOT?

I have no symtoms of blown head gasket. The coolant is not stained, does not gush out. Oil is fine. And no visible smoke.

Do i need new 0'2?s I will get more scan data soon.

Does anyone what Quad Driver 1 failure stand for?

 

ttt for today's morning crowd....

In summation, is this causing my huge horsepower loss? and what should I look for?