Hey guys, I have my shortblock on the way from the member I purchased from, and looking at the ARP studs that were used on the mains, it was setup for using an aftermarket oil pan, they are definitely too short.

Looks like I need to remove 3 of the studs and replace them with these?


http://store.summitracing.com/partde...115&rsview=sku



If so, how do I go about putting the studs back in, not really sure how all this works. Remove the old ones, I believe they have a hex provision on the ends.. then put the new ones back in? Do you just thread in studs till they bottom out and tighten as hard as possible with the hex key.. then place the nuts down and torque to spec? (what is the spec anyways)... Is any thread locker used on the mains?

Last ?, what's the part # for the OEM windage tray, mine broke at the back bolt hole for some reason...

 

Yeah you can do it that way but it's better to find a Canton pan and pickup for the setup. I know that's what the motor was orginally supposed to have.

Bret

 

I know Bret, I'd love to, but the budget is running low man.. lol

Will the high volume oil pump that is with that motor now work with the stocker pan? or is that an issue as well?

 

My canton pan sucks *****. It leaks like a ****. Biggest waste of 300+ you can spend. Keep the stock pan unless you are getting a little hairier. If so, get something different.

Ryan

 

Not to hijack but you don't need the tray if you go with an aftermarket pan? Curious because while taking mine apart it caught my eye. If that's the case I can help you out! I won't need mine.

 

Depends on what pan you go with. I know the Canton 242 comes with an integrated windage tray.

Lemme find out what the part costs new and let me know what you'd like for yours.

 

Look into the Milodon replacement pan. It fit very nicely and seemed to be a quality piece.

 

For the record, the milodon studs appear to be made by ARP.
The nuts are all stamped with ARP and the stud run the same tensile strenght even though they don't have the ARP marking.

If you decide to go with studs do the following.

1. Cleaned all the new studs with break cleaner or lacquer thinner, doesn't matter just get the glue from the package off.
2. Removed 1 original main stud from 1 cap. (Replacing one stud at a time)
3. Dipped block side of the new stud in 30w oil...only up to the top of the treads. (The milodon studs give you the torque spec for oil but moly lube could be used...not sure what the torque spec would be.)
4. Install stud finger tight in block.
5. Wipe 30w oil all the way around the top threads for the nut.
6. Torque the nut to 65 ft/lb per the Milodon instructions.

 

You'll have to ding the stock pan a little to clear the studs you are planning on using. I used the Milodon diamond stripper with those studs, little clearancing is needed, but nothing anyone can't handle.

 

Sure does get interesting at this stage of the game..

So just beat on the pan a bit on the inside to get it to clear the studs huh?

Does the Milodon 30902 pan require a windage tray by any chance? For $150 it sure seems like it could cure alot of hassle... but it looks like it doesn't have a built in windage like the Canton. The 30909 looks like the one to get.. but again.. $259, and backordered. heh.

 

Yeah..lol I just put the pan on and tapped it so the studs would mark the pan where they were hitting then I pulled it back off and liberally "tapped" it out enought then repainted it.

 

I had the 30909, so yes it did come with a windage tray. Sucks that it's backordered though, it was a nice pan. Even though it's $259, it's a lot better than spending over $300 for a piece of crap.

 

With a H/V pump you need to check the pickup height... it's probably going to be WAY too close to the bottom of the pan.

As for pans leaking.... use the rails that come with the stock pan, a good 1 piece gasket and only a very small amount of silicone and you will have zero leaks. I've never had a problem with the Canton pans.

Bret