LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

bolt on Headers

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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 09:50 AM
  #1  
guitardedjf's Avatar
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From: winter park, FL
bolt on Headers

Which Headers would be bolt on DIY easy installation (in other words, no cutting and welding)
How much? links?
You guys are a great help. thanks.
Old Jan 20, 2004 | 09:53 AM
  #2  
Larnach's Avatar
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From: San Diego PB
All shorty's and mid lengths are pretty much a bolt on deal. I went from Jet Hot LT's to MAC's and the MAC's just bolted right up to everything, the OR Pipe was a perfect fit as well.
Old Jan 20, 2004 | 09:56 AM
  #3  
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From: Chicago, Illinois
i agree shorty or midlength headers are easier , where you will have to take things apart for LT's . macs are nice, i want LT's again though
Old Jan 20, 2004 | 10:43 AM
  #4  
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From: Fairfield, ca
Well not all mids and shorties are just bolt on's. It depends on which car you are putting a certain header on. My car with the as&m's is gonna take a little work. I am doing the single cat conversion. So it is gonna take some cutting of the pipes to make everything fit and then it is gonna have to be welded up.
Old Jan 20, 2004 | 12:02 PM
  #5  
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I did my LTs in my garage with simple hand tools. Very few power tools were used.
Old Jan 20, 2004 | 12:49 PM
  #6  
Larnach's Avatar
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From: San Diego PB
Originally posted by LWillmann
I did my LTs in my garage with simple hand tools. Very few power tools were used.
I had to use a Howitzer on the firewall to get mine in.

Old Jan 20, 2004 | 01:05 PM
  #7  
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I did not hammer or beat on one single thing!


I had to use a sawzall to cut the intermediate pipe so it would meet up with my y-pipe, and I had to grind the lip off a 2" section of the tranny crossmember and that was it.

I didn't even have to lift the engine to get the passenger side header in. The install was rather painless, actually. It was harder to remove the stock stuff than to get the new stuff in.
Old Jan 20, 2004 | 01:58 PM
  #8  
"White Knight"'s Avatar
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From: Michigan
You guys make it seem easy. It's a little more than just dropping in a new intake. Mostly just takes a long time and patience. I went with the shorties. If you haven't done much work yourslef then it might take you longer.........but still managable i think.

Here is another thing to remember................a larger primary=more torque, less high top end hp and a smaller primary=more high top hp and less low end torque.


My shorties will out flow any of your longtubes



DON'T BREAK A BOLT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! rock them back and fourth when pulling out the manifold bolts............go out a ways and turn them back in a little to break the threads lose!!!!!!!!!! i learned the hard way and had to have the head pulled and the bolt machined out. An that was not cheap!!!!!
Old Jan 20, 2004 | 03:46 PM
  #9  
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From: San Diego PB
The MAC's are very easy, took about 5 minutes to drop in, another hour to fully bolt down.
Old Jan 21, 2004 | 11:48 AM
  #10  
Geoff Chadwick's Avatar
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From: All around
After installing SLP Shorties (single cat) twice, a set of PaceSetters and a set of MAC's...

SLP plug access is better then stock, but not the best. getting the headers into place was a pain. Lifting the engine slightly made it easy.

Pacesetters went in easy - but plug access on some was a royal POS and the rear driver's plug wouldnt go in without removing the top of the spark plug. That and they leaked like nothing else.

Mac's... oh how I love them... They went in easier then the pacesetters, much better welds then the pacesetters. The welds were just as good as the SLPs, but plug access was a lot easier. Like a plug change now I can literally do with the y-pipe on from above with some grunting on the passenger side (driver side is cake) They just rock. Also MAC gives you the ability with flanges so you can swap a cat and off-road pipe, which may or may not matter to you ;-)

I reccomend the usual Copper Gaskets, and the first time you do it, if it's cool in your work space, plan on a good 9-10 hours of work over two days. First soak everything in penetrating oil for a few hours, then get the y-pipe off. Then get off the Steering shaft (((DO NOT SPIN STEERING WHEEL LIKE THIS - It breaks a little connection to the airbag) and then it's not bad at all...
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