Bleeding the Coolant System
Bleeding the Coolant System
Heres the situation
Did the waterpump and was unsure of how much coolant to put in
Filled up the resovoir tank first on accident with 1/2 a gallon, which made the car get hot fast again.
Then put 1/2 a gallon in the radiator and that helped some but the resovior still read that it was "overfilled"
Put another 1/3 or so gallon in the radiator and the reseovior then read almost completely empty
The radiator at this point was full so we topped off the resovior and everythings been fine.
But I know this was obviously the wrong way to do it and i'm sure that caused a lot of air to get in there.
I know in another post someone outlined the process of doing it but can you take me step by step of how to do it in this situation and which bleeder screw I open first, I know theres two for whatever reason
We tried bleeding it ourselves with the bleeder screw thats easily accessible but nothing would ever come out. Sometimes coolant would spurt when I revved it, but only a tiny tiny bit
Thanks a lot
Hopefully itll be done and I can forget about it after this
Did the waterpump and was unsure of how much coolant to put in
Filled up the resovoir tank first on accident with 1/2 a gallon, which made the car get hot fast again.
Then put 1/2 a gallon in the radiator and that helped some but the resovior still read that it was "overfilled"
Put another 1/3 or so gallon in the radiator and the reseovior then read almost completely empty
The radiator at this point was full so we topped off the resovior and everythings been fine.
But I know this was obviously the wrong way to do it and i'm sure that caused a lot of air to get in there.
I know in another post someone outlined the process of doing it but can you take me step by step of how to do it in this situation and which bleeder screw I open first, I know theres two for whatever reason
We tried bleeding it ourselves with the bleeder screw thats easily accessible but nothing would ever come out. Sometimes coolant would spurt when I revved it, but only a tiny tiny bit

Thanks a lot
Hopefully itll be done and I can forget about it after this
Well the shoebox thing doesn't really tell me much. It explains how to add it in, but I already did that and messed up and now I need to bleed it...haven't found anything about that yet..
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#radflush
-Using a 50/50 mix of coolant to water, fill the system through the radiator neck (bleeder valves open).
-LT1 coolant capacities for the 4th gen F-body:
With Manual Transmission - 15.3 quarts (14.5 L)
With Automatic Transmission - 15.1 quarts (14.3 L)
-Close bleeder screws when bubbles disappear and only coolant is visible.
-Fill the coolant recovery reservoir to the COLD fill mark. This will provide the extra coolant required to replace the air left in the system upon the first couple of thermocycles.
-Install coolant recovery cap.
-Block wheels and run engine in Park or Neutral with the radiator cap off until thermostat opens (you should see coolant circulating in the radiator tubes).
-With the engine running, add coolant to the radiator until the level reaches the bottom of the filler neck. This may be tricky if you have an electric pump because coolant may try to gush out-be careful. Install cap sooner if you need to.
-Install radiator cap.
-Check for leaks after the engine is up to running temperature.
-Monitor engine temperature. If the temperature goes up into the red zone, turn off engine and allow to cool. After it has cooled, check the level in the remote reservoir and correct if necessary. Run engine again until the thermostat is open and check again for air at the bleeder screws.
-LT1 coolant capacities for the 4th gen F-body:
With Manual Transmission - 15.3 quarts (14.5 L)
With Automatic Transmission - 15.1 quarts (14.3 L)
-Close bleeder screws when bubbles disappear and only coolant is visible.
-Fill the coolant recovery reservoir to the COLD fill mark. This will provide the extra coolant required to replace the air left in the system upon the first couple of thermocycles.
-Install coolant recovery cap.
-Block wheels and run engine in Park or Neutral with the radiator cap off until thermostat opens (you should see coolant circulating in the radiator tubes).
-With the engine running, add coolant to the radiator until the level reaches the bottom of the filler neck. This may be tricky if you have an electric pump because coolant may try to gush out-be careful. Install cap sooner if you need to.
-Install radiator cap.
-Check for leaks after the engine is up to running temperature.
-Monitor engine temperature. If the temperature goes up into the red zone, turn off engine and allow to cool. After it has cooled, check the level in the remote reservoir and correct if necessary. Run engine again until the thermostat is open and check again for air at the bleeder screws.
Hmm me and my dad looked at it today
I opened up the bleeder screws and fluid came out pretty steadily so I thought perfect
I then looked at the radiator, and the fluid was up to the base of it...perfect
I then looked at the overfill tank....and...nothing.
It was full jsut the other day before I came home
Where should I fill it up?
I opened up the bleeder screws and fluid came out pretty steadily so I thought perfect
I then looked at the radiator, and the fluid was up to the base of it...perfect
I then looked at the overfill tank....and...nothing.

It was full jsut the other day before I came home
Where should I fill it up?
I had to bleed the car hot a few times in order to get all the air out. When I first refilled, everything seemed good until a mile down the road, and I got the low coolant light. Opened the bleeders, and got a good few minutes of steam, followed by coolant. Had the same overfilled resevoir too. After doing this 3 or 4 times, it finally got stable.
i have had this same issue lately. I can never get the top most bleeder to flow coolant with engine cold just filling at radiator, not sure how you do it with the bleeder being higher than radiator. My car still runs too hot. I open the bleeder screws with engine hot and running and only coolant comes out bleeders now, but car still runs too warm. Never had any issues till after I flushed heater core. could use some help please.
It won't flow coolant out the top bleeder when you fill the radiator cold/engine not running. But you need to open the bleeder so most of the air can flow out as you fill the system.
Is it possible that when you flushed the heater core, you didn't get all the sludge out before you stopped flushing, and that sludge is now plugging up the radiator?
Is it possible that when you flushed the heater core, you didn't get all the sludge out before you stopped flushing, and that sludge is now plugging up the radiator?
did fill radiator with all bleeder screws open. I flushed the core 3 years ago prior to me just doing it again. Flushed it till only clear fluid came out. Think i didnt get junk in the radiator but is still a bleeding issue?
temp will drop back to normal if I'm accelerating from a light and get the revs up a bit. Had no problems prior to my core flushing.
temp will drop back to normal if I'm accelerating from a light and get the revs up a bit. Had no problems prior to my core flushing.
anyone who doesn't understand. .. The coolant will suck out of the overflow tank if the radiator is not full. Once your radiator is full the leftover will be in the tank. If there is none then FILL IT about ot half and have the engine running to let it suck what it needs. Then make sure you just top it to the right level. simple.


