Big Prolem!! Blow-by New Motor
Big Prolem!! Blow-by New Motor
Hi guys, im wondering about a customers car again. I had the motor rebuilt by a very well none engine shop. it’s a 383 9.5 to1 comp. Motor parts all top of the line!!! (Forged etc.) I have it in the car with a D1, intercooler set up running 15-16 psi. He got about 725 miles on it and I decided to change engine oil. Not a big deal but I ended up grabbing synthetic oil. He got about 75 - 100 miles on and now it has massive blow bye.!!! I mean it looks like a smoke stack out the pvc on the intake. It has off road y pipe and I don’t see any thing coming out the exhaust. I called my buddy at the dyno shop and he said if they are a molly ring then it was way to early for synthetic oil now its got the rings glazed and they are basically junk!!!!????? What u guys think???
There are a lot of opinions on when to go with synthetic oil, your thoery is plausable. I have a new motor with maybe 1K on it and I dont plan on going synthetic till about 10K miles. Sounds like the motor does have to be pulled though, that sucks man.
I you sure he was not out hammering on it too hard too soon?
I you sure he was not out hammering on it too hard too soon?
Make sure he does the procedure to seat the rings. Bring the car in gear up to about 4000 rpm and let off the throtle and the let the car engine break. Do this 5 to 10 times in different gears at different loads. Also make sure he has the pcv hooked up correctly. I had to use a check valve inline with the pcv.
Well I got a new one. My buddy at the dyno shop said pull the motor or try one of his dads old remedies. Run the motor around 2500 3000 to keep it running and put cleaning powder in the intake (comet etc.) after mass air flow and run it in the motor. Says its just enough to take most of the glaze off. Change oil and filter 2- 3 times, and hope for the best. ??????
Not sure what to think of that.
Im not ruling out that he was beating on it. If i take it apart ill know.
Not sure what to think of that.
Im not ruling out that he was beating on it. If i take it apart ill know.
Well I got a new one. My buddy at the dyno shop said pull the motor or try one of his dads old remedies. Run the motor around 2500 3000 to keep it running and put cleaning powder in the intake (comet etc.) after mass air flow and run it in the motor. Says its just enough to take most of the glaze off. Change oil and filter 2- 3 times, and hope for the best. ??????
Not sure what to think of that.
Im not ruling out that he was beating on it. If i take it apart ill know.
Not sure what to think of that.
Im not ruling out that he was beating on it. If i take it apart ill know.
Are you serious?
Well I got a new one. My buddy at the dyno shop said pull the motor or try one of his dads old remedies. Run the motor around 2500 3000 to keep it running and put cleaning powder in the intake (comet etc.) after mass air flow and run it in the motor. Says its just enough to take most of the glaze off. Change oil and filter 2- 3 times, and hope for the best. ??????
Not sure what to think of that.
Im not ruling out that he was beating on it. If i take it apart ill know.
Not sure what to think of that.
Im not ruling out that he was beating on it. If i take it apart ill know.
Your company is not suit for business, this idea is insane.. and honestly you're even crazier for thinking about it.
I waited till I hit 1k miles to switch to synthetic, and I broke it in HARD on non-synthetic oil. No blowby or any kinds of problems here.
wrd1972 -> I think you're being a little "too" conservative on the 10k mile wait.
You might be able to diagnose this by doing a cylinder leakdown test. Listen for air escaping around the rings at the dipstick tube. See if the percentage of leakage is high and consistant across all the cylinders.
You're going to do this on a "customer" car?
Your company is not suit for business, this idea is insane.. and honestly you're even crazier for thinking about it.
I waited till I hit 1k miles to switch to synthetic, and I broke it in HARD on non-synthetic oil. No blowby or any kinds of problems here.
wrd1972 -> I think you're being a little "too" conservative on the 10k mile wait.
Your company is not suit for business, this idea is insane.. and honestly you're even crazier for thinking about it.
I waited till I hit 1k miles to switch to synthetic, and I broke it in HARD on non-synthetic oil. No blowby or any kinds of problems here.
wrd1972 -> I think you're being a little "too" conservative on the 10k mile wait.
It made the rings seat in quicker.
Its true purpose was to make the cars not smoke as they drove off the car lot.
It was a mixture of water and ajax (2:1).
All was needed was 8oz. of this mixture.
I would NOT recommend this on the newer motors.
The rings are too thin, and will do more harm than good.
Tear it down and see what the problem is.
Last edited by sam pace; Nov 27, 2007 at 05:28 PM.
Well I got a new one. My buddy at the dyno shop said pull the motor or try one of his dads old remedies. Run the motor around 2500 3000 to keep it running and put cleaning powder in the intake (comet etc.) after mass air flow and run it in the motor. Says its just enough to take most of the glaze off. Change oil and filter 2- 3 times, and hope for the best. ??????
Holy shat you cant be serious
Take it out, take it apart.
Yeah thats playing it very safe, but I am know the rings will be well broke in with zero risk problems when changing to synthetic. I know thats not the official reccomendation, thats just my preference.
Last edited by wrd1972; Nov 27, 2007 at 05:49 PM.
Make sure you arent putting boost into the crankcase first. If thats not the deal take the car out and whip it pretty hard, the rings need load and cyl pressure to seat them, that would be my last ditch effort to get em to seat. The only time when beating the car would be a bad thing that can come of that is if you have a hurt ring land or butted ring if they werent gapped correctly. Also I'm not against moderate compression with a boosted engine, and i'm no expert but 9.5 with 15-16lbs of boost seems a little much on pump fuel. Add to that a relatively new combo that maybe hasnt been tuned on the dyno/wideband or very conservatively, or a failure or weakness in the fuel system, and you have a catastrohic failure waiting to happen.
And as others have said before no abrasives in the motor!
And as others have said before no abrasives in the motor!
I would have run the crap out of it with no boost first.......like 15 minutes. Then burn her *** down the road......
after 750 miles I don't see why it would glaze.........do a leakdown...I bet a ringland is broke or something
after 750 miles I don't see why it would glaze.........do a leakdown...I bet a ringland is broke or something
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