Best year of LT1 F-Bodies?
Best year of LT1 F-Bodies?
Hi, I have been wanting an LT1 for a loooooong time now, either a Z28 or a Trans Am, depending on the deal I find. I think now I am finally ready to start making decisions...
What year(s) should I be looking at? I know the 95+ have OBD2, should I go for those or are the OBD1s easier to work on? What years are easier to troubleshoot/work on/are more reliable. I don't plan on doing extensive mods now, just basic stuff like exhaust, intake, etc and other simple stuff.
Can someone highlight the differences between the years 93-97?
Thanks for your help
What year(s) should I be looking at? I know the 95+ have OBD2, should I go for those or are the OBD1s easier to work on? What years are easier to troubleshoot/work on/are more reliable. I don't plan on doing extensive mods now, just basic stuff like exhaust, intake, etc and other simple stuff.
Can someone highlight the differences between the years 93-97?
Thanks for your help
Well, that has been a broad topic discussed. I would recommend doing a SEARCH. But IMPO, 97 is the best year. The wheels, tailights, instrument panel of a 98. But it is OBD11, therefore a little more sophisticated. Id say go with 97 if you can find one cheap. I got mine for about 7800 with 75K on it. But i found out it has problems.
If you want performance, and maybe a little better reliability... then 95 because of OBD1 and exhaust setup.
If you want the best style, then 97 like he said.
edit: forgot about vented opti
If you want the best style, then 97 like he said.
edit: forgot about vented opti
Last edited by JoeliusZ28; Jan 24, 2004 at 09:09 PM.
Originally posted by white97z/28
What makes a 95 have more performance than my 97?
What makes a 95 have more performance than my 97?
Also if (and only if) you get headers the 95 setup is better.
So in conclusion... your car is faster stock, but I can mod mine better. (although you could change to a OBD1 and 95 style headers
, but the latter would not be emissions legal)
Originally posted by JoeliusZ28
from what ive heard, the 95 computers work better, and can be tuned better/easier.
Also if (and only if) you get headers the 95 setup is better.
So in conclusion... your car is faster stock, but I can mod mine better. (although you could change to a OBD1 and 95 style headers
, but the latter would not be emissions legal)
from what ive heard, the 95 computers work better, and can be tuned better/easier.
Also if (and only if) you get headers the 95 setup is better.
So in conclusion... your car is faster stock, but I can mod mine better. (although you could change to a OBD1 and 95 style headers
, but the latter would not be emissions legal)
i thought that is what you meant, but i was just checking. Switchen mine to OBD1 sucks though, its like $275 i think. Dont have that kind of money. Some 95's were OBD11 though right? I could have bought a 94 for the 3500 a few months ago, but was low on cash and couldnt do it. Oh well, wish i had ev went to the bank, 3500 is hella cheaper than 7800. Oh well, you live and you learn you know.
Originally posted by 1FASASZ
how are the 97s faster than 95s stock for stock? i thought they were the same. i dont like the instrament panal of the 97s and later. i think the dash and the guages on the 93-96 are way better looking and more sporty
how are the 97s faster than 95s stock for stock? i thought they were the same. i dont like the instrament panal of the 97s and later. i think the dash and the guages on the 93-96 are way better looking and more sporty
Originally posted by white97z/28
i thought that is what you meant, but i was just checking. Switchen mine to OBD1 sucks though, its like $275 i think. Dont have that kind of money. Some 95's were OBD11 though right? I could have bought a 94 for the 3500 a few months ago, but was low on cash and couldnt do it. Oh well, wish i had ev went to the bank, 3500 is hella cheaper than 7800. Oh well, you live and you learn you know.
i thought that is what you meant, but i was just checking. Switchen mine to OBD1 sucks though, its like $275 i think. Dont have that kind of money. Some 95's were OBD11 though right? I could have bought a 94 for the 3500 a few months ago, but was low on cash and couldnt do it. Oh well, wish i had ev went to the bank, 3500 is hella cheaper than 7800. Oh well, you live and you learn you know.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 1,070
From: Austin, TX or Texas State University at San Marcos
95 for the already stated OBD1 computer and vented opti..... but the 97 's have a cupholder you can actuall USE!!!!!!!!!! So, either way having a LT1 is your first good choice.
Chris
Chris
A '97 for sure, but I'm biased. 
They are all about the same for power so don't worry about that.
The cool thing about the 97's is that the new interior is the same as the '98+ and so are the tail lights. That is a preference thing though, and some may like the earlier model LT1's better. You can look at the picture in my sig to see the tail lights.
Bottom line is that it's hard to get a bad year. All LT1's are great in my opinion, but so are LS1's.
One more thing about the '97's is that they will tend to have less miles than the earlier model LT1's.
Dan

They are all about the same for power so don't worry about that.
The cool thing about the 97's is that the new interior is the same as the '98+ and so are the tail lights. That is a preference thing though, and some may like the earlier model LT1's better. You can look at the picture in my sig to see the tail lights.
Bottom line is that it's hard to get a bad year. All LT1's are great in my opinion, but so are LS1's.
One more thing about the '97's is that they will tend to have less miles than the earlier model LT1's.
Dan
Originally posted by omarECD
Thanks for the advice everybody. So, what should I look for/check before buying to make sure I'm not getting a car with issues?
What else is a common problem besides the opti's?
Thanks for the advice everybody. So, what should I look for/check before buying to make sure I'm not getting a car with issues?
What else is a common problem besides the opti's?

Fron cover sometimes leaks as well. Get under the car and look for oily lines. Fix it your self is "easy" and pretty cheap. Paying someone else to change some of the leaky gaskets can get kind of expensive.
Oh yeah, broken tranny mounts. Tranny goes "thunk" when you stomp on it from a slow roll/stopped. $20 and 10 minutes to swap out.
Last edited by EbeZ28; Jan 26, 2004 at 10:22 AM.
I'm looking to spend around 7 grand or so for an LT1 with around 70k miles, so a 1997 is probably out of reach. I know these aren't the most reliable cars, but what have been your personal experiences with these cars?
My AIM screen name is OmarECD if you wanna fill me in...
My AIM screen name is OmarECD if you wanna fill me in...


