What is the best way to re-install the hub onto the crankshaft on an LT1?

 

put a piece of wood on the end and tap it on. The correct way is to use a hub installer. you can also put the bolt in and start tightening. with the ATI superdamper, its too deep for installer i have so i just put the bolt on and start tightening. it's not recomended, but it works if you are careful.

 

Pulling it on with the bolt is a big no no as i spent the last week drilling it out after i tried that and the bolt got stuck and broke in the crank, and i tried the wood idea and it only goes 1/2 way on.

 

Just a note...I had a I believe Powerbond or Pioneer hub/balancer, and ARP bolt. The huge washer that comes with the ARP bolt won't fit in the hub, and the ARP bolt is too long, it bottoms out in the crank before it gets the hub pressed all the way on.

Also, make sure you get a keyway for the front of the crank, even though they're "neutral" balance, because if you look inside the seal there where the hub slides through, you'll see ANOTHER key further back where the crank gear is, and you may risk pushing up against that with the hub, instead of that key sliding in the slit in the hub. I had a bitch finding the right size key, I had to find one that was about the right shape, then file it slightly thinner to fit in the keyway.

Hope that makes sense...

 

There is no keyway on the hub, it's tapered fit? Oh and yea i learned the hard way about the arp bolt, did'nt bottom out but it did roll 3 threads on the bolt and then broke.

 

How was the crank? Bolts are easily replaceable.

There's no keyway on the hub? Is it factory or aftermarket? I guess mine was different since I went aftermarket....I lost the factory one. For the best anyways, my rubber was all falling out.

 

Rubber on the crank hub? You're talking about the balancer i think, i'm talking about the hub that bolts to the crank and then the balancer bolts to it with 3 bolts. and no there is no keyway on it it is a tapered fit and self centers.

 

No I know what you mean. On the balancer (or rather harmonic dampner) it was falling apart (the rubber), better off I lost it and got a quality piece. I can't say for sure if the factory piece is press fit or not since I never put it back on.

Does the factory not use keys either?

Sorry...

 

Go to your friendly cornerstore hardware supplier and get the same bolt thread size/pitch as the stock bolt but in 6" for length and some fender washers. Slowly tighten down the bolt until the hub is snug and then replace the long bolt with the stock one.

 

Hi, just did mine last night,I used a piece of 7\16 x 20 threaded rod 5" long and large washers and 7\16 x 20 nuts,also oiled crank snout ,worked great,hope this helps ,Gil.

 

May sound crazy but I boiled mine to get it started much more easily, some very light tapping then seated it far enough to CAREFULLY draw it up with the stock bolt. Will be doing another one today though and since the hardware store will be open we will get a longer bolt and washers.

I boiled it because I wanted to heat it without making it so hot it would damage the seal, my thinking was the 212degrees roughly that boiling would make it would be hot but not too hot.

 

Get a grade (8) 7/16x20 threaded rod. Pics of my homemade installer in sig. I had to go to a industrial supply bolt and nut store to find one this strong. You don't want it to bend or break in the crank.