Best way to make 350-400 RWHP?
Best way to make 350-400 RWHP?
Alright heres that deal. My Dad builds racing engines for a living and I want him to make my 94Z28 faster. I talked to him about it and he said that he would like me to get on here and get advice on what others have done and what worked for them.
I would like a respectable amount of power to start with, something that won't start breaking parts. Maybe 350-400 rwhp? I was reading a lot and a head/cam package sounds pretty good. My Dad can P&P the heads for me and do anything machining wise.
Can you guys throw me a couple ideas on exactly what to do to achieve my goal? I want around 350-400 rwhp and I don't want to spend a lot of money on parts. I don't really want a 383 just because I don't want that much power (torque) on a daily driven car.
Thanks in advance ---Brad
I would like a respectable amount of power to start with, something that won't start breaking parts. Maybe 350-400 rwhp? I was reading a lot and a head/cam package sounds pretty good. My Dad can P&P the heads for me and do anything machining wise.
Can you guys throw me a couple ideas on exactly what to do to achieve my goal? I want around 350-400 rwhp and I don't want to spend a lot of money on parts. I don't really want a 383 just because I don't want that much power (torque) on a daily driven car.
Thanks in advance ---Brad
Have your dad port and polist the heads... u can get some SI or manley valves 2.02-1.6 or less like 2.00-1.56 ($ depends, 500-1500). Get a fairly streetable cam like a cc305 XE224/230 or XE230/236 (245).
Jet hot Long tube headers (500), X pipe and dump the exhaust before the axle (custom), Cold air (160).. 52mm throttle body (200-260 check and see if your dad can bore yours or buy one off ebay or the board), 30 pound SVO Ford motor sport injectors (120-200).
Get matching springs, plugs, 1.6 rockers etc..
That is what you'll need to be in the range u want.. all motor. Or u could do long tubes, cold air, exhaust and 100-150 shot of nitrous..
Im going all motor.. got my heads today
Jet hot Long tube headers (500), X pipe and dump the exhaust before the axle (custom), Cold air (160).. 52mm throttle body (200-260 check and see if your dad can bore yours or buy one off ebay or the board), 30 pound SVO Ford motor sport injectors (120-200).
Get matching springs, plugs, 1.6 rockers etc..
That is what you'll need to be in the range u want.. all motor. Or u could do long tubes, cold air, exhaust and 100-150 shot of nitrous..
Im going all motor.. got my heads today
Originally posted by dnz28
what are your goals with this car auto x or dragin? need to know
what are your goals with this car auto x or dragin? need to know
Last edited by AustinZ28; Oct 30, 2003 at 07:09 PM.
Originally posted by badazzcamaro97
The head and cam is a good idea, I've also read a good deal into superchargers for good horsepower.
The head and cam is a good idea, I've also read a good deal into superchargers for good horsepower.
Atljar dynod 357rwhp with stock heads and a GM847 cam.....throw some fully ported heads on and you're at over 400rwhp.
check out www.cmotorsports.com they have a ****load of LT1 cams
check out www.cmotorsports.com they have a ****load of LT1 cams
Originally posted by dobe
got advanced induction ported heads, and a cam from them and i make the nums in the sig.. also have longtubes, 58mm tb, 1.6 rr, etc
got advanced induction ported heads, and a cam from them and i make the nums in the sig.. also have longtubes, 58mm tb, 1.6 rr, etc
Originally posted by ZDriver96
Have your dad port and polist the heads... u can get some SI or manley valves 2.02-1.6 or less like 2.00-1.56 ($ depends, 500-1500). Get a fairly streetable cam like a cc305 XE224/230 or XE230/236 (245).
Jet hot Long tube headers (500), X pipe and dump the exhaust before the axle (custom), Cold air (160).. 52mm throttle body (200-260 check and see if your dad can bore yours or buy one off ebay or the board), 30 pound SVO Ford motor sport injectors (120-200).
Get matching springs, plugs, 1.6 rockers etc..
That is what you'll need to be in the range u want.. all motor. Or u could do long tubes, cold air, exhaust and 100-150 shot of nitrous..
Im going all motor.. got my heads today
Have your dad port and polist the heads... u can get some SI or manley valves 2.02-1.6 or less like 2.00-1.56 ($ depends, 500-1500). Get a fairly streetable cam like a cc305 XE224/230 or XE230/236 (245).
Jet hot Long tube headers (500), X pipe and dump the exhaust before the axle (custom), Cold air (160).. 52mm throttle body (200-260 check and see if your dad can bore yours or buy one off ebay or the board), 30 pound SVO Ford motor sport injectors (120-200).
Get matching springs, plugs, 1.6 rockers etc..
That is what you'll need to be in the range u want.. all motor. Or u could do long tubes, cold air, exhaust and 100-150 shot of nitrous..
Im going all motor.. got my heads today
Thanks for the advice -----> Brad
Get your dad to fix u up on the heads. Then put a cc306 cam in it. Then Hooker long tubes with true duals. Some computer tuning.
If thats not enough for ya JUST SPRAY THE WAY!!!!!!!!! N.O.S. !!!
If thats not enough for ya JUST SPRAY THE WAY!!!!!!!!! N.O.S. !!!
well I guess a 350-400 hp monster is just fine for a daily driver. I was just tring to get think of a cam for both situations. well any ways heads and cam are almost automtatic 350-400hp. my set up was dynoed at 385. so if you take a look in the sig that should put you where you want. glad you like the springs. You like the drop?
..define "best"
the word LT4 comes to mind if you mean best in a tame way.
Lots of head, tame cam, high lift, full bolt ons and you should have no problem making above 400rwhp and barely loping.
My idea of "best" for a street car is as tame as humanly possible, a low reving as humantly possible, as reliable as humanly possible while still meeting my goals.
Id rather spend an extra $500-$700 to get it tame and lower reving.
the word LT4 comes to mind if you mean best in a tame way.
Lots of head, tame cam, high lift, full bolt ons and you should have no problem making above 400rwhp and barely loping.
My idea of "best" for a street car is as tame as humanly possible, a low reving as humantly possible, as reliable as humanly possible while still meeting my goals.
Id rather spend an extra $500-$700 to get it tame and lower reving.


