Best performance bang-for-the-buck
06-10-2014, 10:29 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Kings Park, NY
Posts: 28
Best performance bang-for-the-buck
Hey all. Just posted in the lounge about purchasing a '97 SS with only 34k miles. It appears to be a great car so I am very excited.
The mods are as follows: replaced the SS ram air w/ SLP Cold Air Intake, BMR lowering springs, BMR Rear Lower Control Arms, BMR Rear Sway Bar, SLP Loudmouth exhaust (from factory/SLP), SLP Strut Tower Bar. Included with the car is a set of Hooker shorty headers that haven't been installed yet.
Due to some slight dry rot on the tires, I will have to replace those. After that, I should have $2k to $3k that I would like to put towards performance. I want some suggestions on where to go from here regarding performance. I am unsure if I want to keep the Hooker shorties since my reading tells me that mids or long tubes are what I want if I am going for every bit of power available... which I am. Do you all recommend keeping the headers and installing them? Sell them and put money towards a set of long tubes? I am new to NY so I don't know how strict they are with emissions but I imagine they suck. If that's the case, I should probably stick with the Hooker shorties...? What other mods do you guys recommend with my budget?
Thanks!
The mods are as follows: replaced the SS ram air w/ SLP Cold Air Intake, BMR lowering springs, BMR Rear Lower Control Arms, BMR Rear Sway Bar, SLP Loudmouth exhaust (from factory/SLP), SLP Strut Tower Bar. Included with the car is a set of Hooker shorty headers that haven't been installed yet.
Due to some slight dry rot on the tires, I will have to replace those. After that, I should have $2k to $3k that I would like to put towards performance. I want some suggestions on where to go from here regarding performance. I am unsure if I want to keep the Hooker shorties since my reading tells me that mids or long tubes are what I want if I am going for every bit of power available... which I am. Do you all recommend keeping the headers and installing them? Sell them and put money towards a set of long tubes? I am new to NY so I don't know how strict they are with emissions but I imagine they suck. If that's the case, I should probably stick with the Hooker shorties...? What other mods do you guys recommend with my budget?
Thanks!
06-10-2014, 11:37 AM
#2
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Okemos, MI
Posts: 9,479
Re: Best performance bang-for-the-buck
There are a handful of must-have modifications that every 4th-gen F-body needs:
Subframe connectors
With only 34k on the clock, your new SS is probably still pretty stiff, and you probably won't notice a big difference with the subframe connectors. As the car ages and you put more miles on it, it'll slowly grow more and more flexible. The problem is most noticeable when going over rough roads and railroad crossings. I put my SFCs on around 75k miles, and they made a HUGE difference. Trust me, though -- you need this mod.
Shocks
The uplevel SLP suspension options count here, but based on your earlier post, your car doesn't have them. The factory spring/shock tuning is pretty terrible. My advice here is to call Sam Strano (his website is stranoparts.com, and you should browse over there and look around, but when you're ready to buy you should actually call him, speak to him, and take his advice). Nobody knows 4th gen handling like he does! He'll ask you what you want out of the car, and then he'll tell you exactly which product will give you the best results.
Springs
(already done to your car by the previous owner)
As I said above, the factory shock/spring combination isn't great. The BMR springs are an excellent upgrade, so unless you're not happy with the ride height, I'd stick with what you have. This is another topic you should discuss with Sam Strano when you call him.
For those of us with a manual transmission, there's a fourth required mod:
Shifter
The standard ball shifter is junk. The factory-optional Hurst (recognizable by the leather-wrapped **** with an H embossed in the top) is an improvement, but it's still not great. IMO, you should get a Pro 5.0 shifter and a Lou's short stick. You'll find the shift action and precision to be hugely improved once this is done.
For those of us with power windows (almost all, but there are a few base-level cars with crank windows), there's a fifth:
Hotwired window motors
I'm serious. Window motors. There are thousands of posts on this forum (some probably lost in the archives) where people asked what's wrong with their window motors. The problem is that the wiring is insufficient, so the motors don't get enough voltage, which causes them to run hot, which eventually causes the temperature overload circuit to kick in and disable the motor. Do yourself a favor and install a hotwire kit on both sides, before they fail. It's astonishing how inconvenient it is to have your window stuck shut (not to mention stuck open). New motors wouldn't hurt while you're in there, since the current ones have already been subject to some low-voltage abuse.
Beyond that, every modification is a matter of taste. You'll have an excellent platform as a starting point, and you can take it in any number of directions? What are you looking for? A sunday cruiser? Do you want to go drag racing? Autocross? HPDE?
For the headers: figure out what the situation is with inspections in your area. If they're strict, you might want to keep the shorties. If not, skip the mids and go straight for longtubes. Lots of guys choose the Pacesetters because they're cheap, but my personal preference is to save up and get a stainless steel set (Kooks makes a good one).
Subframe connectors
With only 34k on the clock, your new SS is probably still pretty stiff, and you probably won't notice a big difference with the subframe connectors. As the car ages and you put more miles on it, it'll slowly grow more and more flexible. The problem is most noticeable when going over rough roads and railroad crossings. I put my SFCs on around 75k miles, and they made a HUGE difference. Trust me, though -- you need this mod.
Shocks
The uplevel SLP suspension options count here, but based on your earlier post, your car doesn't have them. The factory spring/shock tuning is pretty terrible. My advice here is to call Sam Strano (his website is stranoparts.com, and you should browse over there and look around, but when you're ready to buy you should actually call him, speak to him, and take his advice). Nobody knows 4th gen handling like he does! He'll ask you what you want out of the car, and then he'll tell you exactly which product will give you the best results.
Springs
(already done to your car by the previous owner)
As I said above, the factory shock/spring combination isn't great. The BMR springs are an excellent upgrade, so unless you're not happy with the ride height, I'd stick with what you have. This is another topic you should discuss with Sam Strano when you call him.
For those of us with a manual transmission, there's a fourth required mod:
Shifter
The standard ball shifter is junk. The factory-optional Hurst (recognizable by the leather-wrapped **** with an H embossed in the top) is an improvement, but it's still not great. IMO, you should get a Pro 5.0 shifter and a Lou's short stick. You'll find the shift action and precision to be hugely improved once this is done.
For those of us with power windows (almost all, but there are a few base-level cars with crank windows), there's a fifth:
Hotwired window motors
I'm serious. Window motors. There are thousands of posts on this forum (some probably lost in the archives) where people asked what's wrong with their window motors. The problem is that the wiring is insufficient, so the motors don't get enough voltage, which causes them to run hot, which eventually causes the temperature overload circuit to kick in and disable the motor. Do yourself a favor and install a hotwire kit on both sides, before they fail. It's astonishing how inconvenient it is to have your window stuck shut (not to mention stuck open). New motors wouldn't hurt while you're in there, since the current ones have already been subject to some low-voltage abuse.
Beyond that, every modification is a matter of taste. You'll have an excellent platform as a starting point, and you can take it in any number of directions? What are you looking for? A sunday cruiser? Do you want to go drag racing? Autocross? HPDE?
For the headers: figure out what the situation is with inspections in your area. If they're strict, you might want to keep the shorties. If not, skip the mids and go straight for longtubes. Lots of guys choose the Pacesetters because they're cheap, but my personal preference is to save up and get a stainless steel set (Kooks makes a good one).
06-10-2014, 11:43 AM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ga
Posts: 151
Re: Best performance bang-for-the-buck
IMHO - exhaust is the best bang for the buck. While shorties are better than stock manifolds, mid length and long tubes are better than shorties. I have MAC mid lengths on mine and love em. No ground clearance issues at all and excellent sparkplug access.
I am sure the mids give up some hp to the longtubes but not sure how much.
A tune would help also along with a 160 stat. See my SIG for my mods and my rwhp. Mac mid lengths and a tune really pumped up the hp
I am sure the mids give up some hp to the longtubes but not sure how much.
A tune would help also along with a 160 stat. See my SIG for my mods and my rwhp. Mac mid lengths and a tune really pumped up the hp
06-10-2014, 12:28 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Kings Park, NY
Posts: 28
Re: Best performance bang-for-the-buck
JakeRobb, thanks for all of the info! 
I am definitely planning to finish off the exhaust. Right now, it just has the Loudmouth from the factory/SLP. I definitely want to do headers but am torn. The seller is giving me the Hooker super comp shorty's that he was planning to install. I know mids or long tubes provide more power so selling the hooker shorty's and going with long tubes is always an option. I have to look into NY emissions to see what my options are. Regardless of which headers I choose, I guess I need to then decide on high flow cat or off road pipe. After that, the exhaust will be finished.
Once exhaust is complete, I am unsure of which direction to go. I still want to focus on power, so I am thinking a tune would be worth the money.
I am definitely planning to finish off the exhaust. Right now, it just has the Loudmouth from the factory/SLP. I definitely want to do headers but am torn. The seller is giving me the Hooker super comp shorty's that he was planning to install. I know mids or long tubes provide more power so selling the hooker shorty's and going with long tubes is always an option. I have to look into NY emissions to see what my options are. Regardless of which headers I choose, I guess I need to then decide on high flow cat or off road pipe. After that, the exhaust will be finished.
Once exhaust is complete, I am unsure of which direction to go. I still want to focus on power, so I am thinking a tune would be worth the money.
06-10-2014, 12:30 PM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Kings Park, NY
Posts: 28
06-10-2014, 12:40 PM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ga
Posts: 151
Re: Best performance bang-for-the-buck
IMHO - its not worth the money on a stock motor especially going up from a 3.42 to 3.73 The 3.42 is a great all around gear, best of both worlds.
Last edited by Matts97camaro; 06-10-2014 at 12:45 PM.
06-10-2014, 12:45 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Sunny South Florida
Posts: 305
Re: Best performance bang-for-the-buck
06-10-2014, 01:12 PM
#9
Administrator
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Posts: 70,630
Re: Best performance bang-for-the-buck
A mail-order PCM tune will normally net you 10-15 HP, just by leaning out the overly rich target A/F ratio used in power enrichment mode (PE = ~WOT). You can gain additional HP by installing a 160*F thermostat, and having the fan on/off temps changed in the tune, along with a couple degrees more spark advance. Bypass the coolant lines that put coolant into the throttle body bottom plate - 6 HP virtually free. 1.6X full roller rockers should produce up to 10HP.
As far as the short shifter is concerned, I recommended the Pro5.0 recently on another site (a had one 15 years ago) and was told I'm living in the past... the MGW is the current "best". Live and learn.
06-10-2014, 03:19 PM
#11
Administrator
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Posts: 70,630
Re: Best performance bang-for-the-buck
Here's a site that's more than 15 years old, and still has some interesting info:
WS6.COM LT1 Trans Am
Dyno test of the throttle body coolant bypass:
Modifications #8
WS6.COM LT1 Trans Am
Dyno test of the throttle body coolant bypass:
Modifications #8
06-10-2014, 04:12 PM
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Michigan now. Plenty of other places
Posts: 47
Re: Best performance bang-for-the-buck
There are a handful of must-have modifications that every 4th-gen F-body needs:
Subframe connectors
With only 34k on the clock, your new SS is probably still pretty stiff, and you probably won't notice a big difference with the subframe connectors. As the car ages and you put more miles on it, it'll slowly grow more and more flexible. The problem is most noticeable when going over rough roads and railroad crossings. I put my SFCs on around 75k miles, and they made a HUGE difference. Trust me, though -- you need this mod.
Shocks
The uplevel SLP suspension options count here, but based on your earlier post, your car doesn't have them. The factory spring/shock tuning is pretty terrible. My advice here is to call Sam Strano (his website is stranoparts.com, and you should browse over there and look around, but when you're ready to buy you should actually call him, speak to him, and take his advice). Nobody knows 4th gen handling like he does! He'll ask you what you want out of the car, and then he'll tell you exactly which product will give you the best results.
Springs
(already done to your car by the previous owner)
As I said above, the factory shock/spring combination isn't great. The BMR springs are an excellent upgrade, so unless you're not happy with the ride height, I'd stick with what you have. This is another topic you should discuss with Sam Strano when you call him.
For those of us with a manual transmission, there's a fourth required mod:
Shifter
The standard ball shifter is junk. The factory-optional Hurst (recognizable by the leather-wrapped **** with an H embossed in the top) is an improvement, but it's still not great. IMO, you should get a Pro 5.0 shifter and a Lou's short stick. You'll find the shift action and precision to be hugely improved once this is done.
For those of us with power windows (almost all, but there are a few base-level cars with crank windows), there's a fifth:
Hotwired window motors
I'm serious. Window motors. There are thousands of posts on this forum (some probably lost in the archives) where people asked what's wrong with their window motors. The problem is that the wiring is insufficient, so the motors don't get enough voltage, which causes them to run hot, which eventually causes the temperature overload circuit to kick in and disable the motor. Do yourself a favor and install a hotwire kit on both sides, before they fail. It's astonishing how inconvenient it is to have your window stuck shut (not to mention stuck open). New motors wouldn't hurt while you're in there, since the current ones have already been subject to some low-voltage abuse.
Beyond that, every modification is a matter of taste. You'll have an excellent platform as a starting point, and you can take it in any number of directions? What are you looking for? A sunday cruiser? Do you want to go drag racing? Autocross? HPDE?
For the headers: figure out what the situation is with inspections in your area. If they're strict, you might want to keep the shorties. If not, skip the mids and go straight for longtubes. Lots of guys choose the Pacesetters because they're cheap, but my personal preference is to save up and get a stainless steel set (Kooks makes a good one).
Subframe connectors
With only 34k on the clock, your new SS is probably still pretty stiff, and you probably won't notice a big difference with the subframe connectors. As the car ages and you put more miles on it, it'll slowly grow more and more flexible. The problem is most noticeable when going over rough roads and railroad crossings. I put my SFCs on around 75k miles, and they made a HUGE difference. Trust me, though -- you need this mod.
Shocks
The uplevel SLP suspension options count here, but based on your earlier post, your car doesn't have them. The factory spring/shock tuning is pretty terrible. My advice here is to call Sam Strano (his website is stranoparts.com, and you should browse over there and look around, but when you're ready to buy you should actually call him, speak to him, and take his advice). Nobody knows 4th gen handling like he does! He'll ask you what you want out of the car, and then he'll tell you exactly which product will give you the best results.
Springs
(already done to your car by the previous owner)
As I said above, the factory shock/spring combination isn't great. The BMR springs are an excellent upgrade, so unless you're not happy with the ride height, I'd stick with what you have. This is another topic you should discuss with Sam Strano when you call him.
For those of us with a manual transmission, there's a fourth required mod:
Shifter
The standard ball shifter is junk. The factory-optional Hurst (recognizable by the leather-wrapped **** with an H embossed in the top) is an improvement, but it's still not great. IMO, you should get a Pro 5.0 shifter and a Lou's short stick. You'll find the shift action and precision to be hugely improved once this is done.
For those of us with power windows (almost all, but there are a few base-level cars with crank windows), there's a fifth:
Hotwired window motors
I'm serious. Window motors. There are thousands of posts on this forum (some probably lost in the archives) where people asked what's wrong with their window motors. The problem is that the wiring is insufficient, so the motors don't get enough voltage, which causes them to run hot, which eventually causes the temperature overload circuit to kick in and disable the motor. Do yourself a favor and install a hotwire kit on both sides, before they fail. It's astonishing how inconvenient it is to have your window stuck shut (not to mention stuck open). New motors wouldn't hurt while you're in there, since the current ones have already been subject to some low-voltage abuse.
Beyond that, every modification is a matter of taste. You'll have an excellent platform as a starting point, and you can take it in any number of directions? What are you looking for? A sunday cruiser? Do you want to go drag racing? Autocross? HPDE?
For the headers: figure out what the situation is with inspections in your area. If they're strict, you might want to keep the shorties. If not, skip the mids and go straight for longtubes. Lots of guys choose the Pacesetters because they're cheap, but my personal preference is to save up and get a stainless steel set (Kooks makes a good one).
Could you please expand on the hotwire window procedure. I have searched the shoebox site and can see how to remove and replace the motors, but there is no reference to changing out wires to improve the window operations and efficiency.
I am picking up a 93 on Friday and the owner has told me the windows run slow. I would like to do the hotwire if you can expand on your comments or guide me.
Much appreciated
06-10-2014, 04:50 PM
#13
Administrator
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Posts: 70,630
Re: Best performance bang-for-the-buck
This wiring kit addresses the passenger side window, which usually runs slower than the driver side:
AutoTrix :: Passenger Window Fix Kit
AutoTrix :: Passenger Window Fix Kit
06-10-2014, 07:36 PM
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ga
Posts: 151
Re: Best performance bang-for-the-buck
Here's a site that's more than 15 years old, and still has some interesting info:
WS6.COM LT1 Trans Am
Dyno test of the throttle body coolant bypass:
Modifications #8
WS6.COM LT1 Trans Am
Dyno test of the throttle body coolant bypass:
Modifications #8
Thats some good info Fred.
06-11-2014, 08:46 AM
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Kings Park, NY
Posts: 28
Re: Best performance bang-for-the-buck
Over the past few months, I have been searching for an LS1 until this LT1 SS popped up. With the fact that I have always thought the LT1 SS's looked better than the LS1's, and this car being absolutely mint, I immediately fell in love. With newer cars easily pushing over the 400hp stock, I definitely want to try and kick up the HP a bit as my budget allows. I guess my biggest decision right now is to decide if I want to install the Hooker shorty's that the seller is including or go with long tubes. It would be nice to put the shorty's on and keep the cats so the car will pass emission testing but people are saying that with it being 17 years old, the car will not undergo emission testing in a few more years. I am in NY so maybe after 20 years, they don't test emissions. Not sure. If that's the case, it's probably best for me to just sell the Hooker shorty headers and purchase long tubes and lose the cats. Between the cold air intake, a pair of decent long tubes, eliminating the cats and SLP's 2OTL, I will probably have extracted every bit of horsepower possible from exhaust mods. Would you all agree?
After that, I guess it's time for a tune. PCMforLess?
After that, I guess it's time for a tune. PCMforLess?
