Best Combo for 383
09-18-2011, 08:19 PM
#1
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Location: Algonac, MI
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Best Combo for 383
I am sure you have covered this but I have been searching but have not seen a fully explained parts list and WHY.
I would like to build a 383 I have Stock Heads that have been CNC'd on a long block that I already purchased. I purchased a rebuild and it's already .030 over. It was rebuild to be around 480hp (so they say) but not sure of what's in it. So I plan to go through it again but would like to keep the heads due to already Ported. What would be the most I could expect out of it? I also have a car that has a 150shot of NOS that I plan to swap on it when it is installed. Lets talk an open Budget, that seems to be the first question. The second being will it be a daily driver. The answer is Sort of also it will have A/C (still like creature comforts). Third question Manual/Auto. Answer T56. Rear End? Stock for now with 4:10 gears. When all said and done I plan to swap in a 9". What is all the parts required to get the highest HP with Pump Gas?
I would like to build a 383 I have Stock Heads that have been CNC'd on a long block that I already purchased. I purchased a rebuild and it's already .030 over. It was rebuild to be around 480hp (so they say) but not sure of what's in it. So I plan to go through it again but would like to keep the heads due to already Ported. What would be the most I could expect out of it? I also have a car that has a 150shot of NOS that I plan to swap on it when it is installed. Lets talk an open Budget, that seems to be the first question. The second being will it be a daily driver. The answer is Sort of also it will have A/C (still like creature comforts). Third question Manual/Auto. Answer T56. Rear End? Stock for now with 4:10 gears. When all said and done I plan to swap in a 9". What is all the parts required to get the highest HP with Pump Gas?
09-20-2011, 12:53 AM
#2
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Re: Best Combo for 383
So I see there are 38 Reviews but no one wants to add Notes.... I want to build a motor this winter and get it into the car before next spring. Need some input so this can be a smooth build.
Thanks in advance..
Thanks in advance..
Last edited by whocaresracing; 09-20-2011 at 12:54 AM. Reason: Needed to add more
09-20-2011, 01:19 AM
#3
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Location: 5 minutes from the warzone in mexico(south texas)
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Re: Best Combo for 383
First of all you obviously need to do the bolt ons if you haven't done them already. Add a signature with what is currently done to the car. I wouldn't trust the 480hp whatever somebody told you well at least that is just me as people tend to exaggerate unless they have proof of it. What's your rwhp goal? Is this going to be a 1/4 mile car or for autocross? You mention open budget what does that mean? Figure out what parts are already in the engine after the original rebuild to see if you can reuse any.
09-20-2011, 05:41 AM
#4
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Woodstown, NJ
Posts: 4,154
Re: Best Combo for 383
Buy my car.
No seriously - find a similar combo/car that does what you want, then emulate it. That's the cheapest most painless way of acquiring your goals.
Also, buy my car.
No seriously - find a similar combo/car that does what you want, then emulate it. That's the cheapest most painless way of acquiring your goals.
Also, buy my car.
09-20-2011, 09:17 AM
#6
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Re: Best Combo for 383
To all whom have posted:
I plan to have this as a 1/4 mile but also have the desire to Drive it weekly with A/C still intact ( have to add it back in ). This is my 3rd Camaro ( same year ) this is my Second T56 Car. Also I might add this is my SLOWEST ONE. My first one was an Auto. It had work done that was TOP SECRET. Meaning I had the Trans done and a Computer Re-Flash. At the time that was done the person working on it was from GM that worked at the Tech Center. The flash was the Prototype that they were using during the Testing phase. The car other than that was completely Stock. Now Knowing I wanted a FASTER one I looked around and Picked up the Burgundy one. Long Story short... Pulled it apart with the want to make a Great Runner... Times were tough and the car set. I put on KYB Adjustable's BMR Components: 32mm Front Sway Bar, Drag Style Rear Sway Bar, Relocated Pan Hard Bar, Adjustable Pan Hard Bar, Adjustable Lower Control Arms, Relocated Torque Arm with Drive Shaft Safety Loop, and rebuilt the rear 10 bolt with 410 Gears. So it then sat for 3 years. I found the Yellow one with no T-Tops and got a deal on it... So I then am now in the process to swap over all the Suspension. I also have that block that was Rebuilt that I do not trust. I have seen posts for 383's,396's and also the 408 I want something that is a 10 sec possible but also Dependable. That's the reason we all go to Fuel Injection isn't it? Let the computer do the adjustments and JUST DRIVE. I plan to keep NOS It will not be Weight Reduced in any way... More than likely it will have Weight added after taking out the interior and adding Sound Deadening, and a Hell of a Stereo. So my question is again: I am not limited to a budget, just wanted to keep some of the parts I already had. I know the Long Block is Stock but .030 over. I want to add A new Rotating Assembly, Cam I have Long Tube Headers already and all the MSD Ignition stuff.... I would like to turn the Stock Heads into something. I see that they were CNC Ported but do not know the Porter or what Valves / Springs are in it. It does have stock Rockers. That is where I Raised the question on QUESTIONING the build that was done. If you paid to have CNC Porting WHY OH WHY would you put back on Stock Rockers??? So Please fire away suggestions on what combo will get this into the 10 Sec range ( keep in mind ) with T56. and 410 Gears ( Don't mind that it is still a 10 bolt. Once it breaks I will get another.... ( 9" )
Thanks in advance
Kevin
I plan to have this as a 1/4 mile but also have the desire to Drive it weekly with A/C still intact ( have to add it back in ). This is my 3rd Camaro ( same year ) this is my Second T56 Car. Also I might add this is my SLOWEST ONE. My first one was an Auto. It had work done that was TOP SECRET. Meaning I had the Trans done and a Computer Re-Flash. At the time that was done the person working on it was from GM that worked at the Tech Center. The flash was the Prototype that they were using during the Testing phase. The car other than that was completely Stock. Now Knowing I wanted a FASTER one I looked around and Picked up the Burgundy one. Long Story short... Pulled it apart with the want to make a Great Runner... Times were tough and the car set. I put on KYB Adjustable's BMR Components: 32mm Front Sway Bar, Drag Style Rear Sway Bar, Relocated Pan Hard Bar, Adjustable Pan Hard Bar, Adjustable Lower Control Arms, Relocated Torque Arm with Drive Shaft Safety Loop, and rebuilt the rear 10 bolt with 410 Gears. So it then sat for 3 years. I found the Yellow one with no T-Tops and got a deal on it... So I then am now in the process to swap over all the Suspension. I also have that block that was Rebuilt that I do not trust. I have seen posts for 383's,396's and also the 408 I want something that is a 10 sec possible but also Dependable. That's the reason we all go to Fuel Injection isn't it? Let the computer do the adjustments and JUST DRIVE. I plan to keep NOS It will not be Weight Reduced in any way... More than likely it will have Weight added after taking out the interior and adding Sound Deadening, and a Hell of a Stereo. So my question is again: I am not limited to a budget, just wanted to keep some of the parts I already had. I know the Long Block is Stock but .030 over. I want to add A new Rotating Assembly, Cam I have Long Tube Headers already and all the MSD Ignition stuff.... I would like to turn the Stock Heads into something. I see that they were CNC Ported but do not know the Porter or what Valves / Springs are in it. It does have stock Rockers. That is where I Raised the question on QUESTIONING the build that was done. If you paid to have CNC Porting WHY OH WHY would you put back on Stock Rockers??? So Please fire away suggestions on what combo will get this into the 10 Sec range ( keep in mind ) with T56. and 410 Gears ( Don't mind that it is still a 10 bolt. Once it breaks I will get another.... ( 9" )
Thanks in advance
Kevin
09-20-2011, 07:35 PM
#8
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 4,800
Re: Best Combo for 383
The story you are telling about the car does not sound good. With a nice budget I would wipe the slate clean and either buy Joe's car or duplicate it. For 10s though a nice heads/cam setup on a basic 355 using a stock crank with a 150shot should run well down into the 10s in a street first car.
I have the same heads on my car and a truely streetable Caprice with power seats AC ABS and all runs mid 11s in fall NA without the benefit of a stroker or much lightening, raceday it falls somewhere between 41-4200lbs. Favorite track is 150miles from home.
Your "CNC'd heads might have accomplished nothing but ruining perfectly good castings or they might be better than most aftermarket heads or anywhere in between.
I have the same heads on my car and a truely streetable Caprice with power seats AC ABS and all runs mid 11s in fall NA without the benefit of a stroker or much lightening, raceday it falls somewhere between 41-4200lbs. Favorite track is 150miles from home.
Your "CNC'd heads might have accomplished nothing but ruining perfectly good castings or they might be better than most aftermarket heads or anywhere in between.
09-23-2011, 05:41 PM
#9
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Re: Best Combo for 383
96capricemgr: Thanks for your input. For what I get out of what you wrote is the AI 200cc Package> I am just assuming that is Heads ONLY no cam change. I Am guessing the heads have an Updated Spring Rate and 1.6 RR's I'll Look them up.
RamAir95TA For the answer I'm 39. As to a reply or more of a question on your (( you have allot to learn )) Not sure where you were going with that...
I just have issues when I even go to Suppliers and ask questions and they respond with less than helpful answers. Like I emailed Scat and their tech commented back that 11.5:1 is way to high for a Street Motor. They Obviously really don't know LT1's with Reverse Flow Cooling can run higher Compression even more so with a 160* Thermostat. I was trying to find out what 1 Piece Crank they have. They only replied you should use a Forged one due to wanting to run NOS. But they did not even give a Part Number. It was kind of an open email the only request was wanting to run NOS/ 11.5:1 383 Stroker. They did not even respond with Crank Stroke Length or Rod Length. I the replied back and asked again more direct and they responded back again with no info. The only thing they commented back is about Rod Length. They said it was more a Preference of the Builder on weather or not to use the 5.7 Length or 6" rods.
So with questions I would have is what is better? Low end torque ( Not Towing ) Total Horse Power ( Torque Curve more at Higher RPM ) More of a Use with Auto Trans with High Stall, OR manual with High RPM Launch. ( Not necessarily best for Street Driving )
So I again was asking on to what was the best combo for Street / Strip to get around the 10 sec 1/4 run's. I already have a NOS system to utilize. Other questions I had is to what Prep work was done to blocks to make them more dependable / street-able. For example should it be on the list of things to do to find a Machine Shop that could convert to 4 bolt Splayed Main's and what's the best source to acquire the Mains from. Would anyone suggest APR Studs or Bolts? One more preferred over the other. I seen some posts that actually not like the APR Studs for the Heads due to removal is tough to lift heads off the block to clear the studs.
Any more input?
Again thanks in advance all.
RamAir95TA For the answer I'm 39. As to a reply or more of a question on your (( you have allot to learn )) Not sure where you were going with that...
I just have issues when I even go to Suppliers and ask questions and they respond with less than helpful answers. Like I emailed Scat and their tech commented back that 11.5:1 is way to high for a Street Motor. They Obviously really don't know LT1's with Reverse Flow Cooling can run higher Compression even more so with a 160* Thermostat. I was trying to find out what 1 Piece Crank they have. They only replied you should use a Forged one due to wanting to run NOS. But they did not even give a Part Number. It was kind of an open email the only request was wanting to run NOS/ 11.5:1 383 Stroker. They did not even respond with Crank Stroke Length or Rod Length. I the replied back and asked again more direct and they responded back again with no info. The only thing they commented back is about Rod Length. They said it was more a Preference of the Builder on weather or not to use the 5.7 Length or 6" rods.
So with questions I would have is what is better? Low end torque ( Not Towing ) Total Horse Power ( Torque Curve more at Higher RPM ) More of a Use with Auto Trans with High Stall, OR manual with High RPM Launch. ( Not necessarily best for Street Driving )
So I again was asking on to what was the best combo for Street / Strip to get around the 10 sec 1/4 run's. I already have a NOS system to utilize. Other questions I had is to what Prep work was done to blocks to make them more dependable / street-able. For example should it be on the list of things to do to find a Machine Shop that could convert to 4 bolt Splayed Main's and what's the best source to acquire the Mains from. Would anyone suggest APR Studs or Bolts? One more preferred over the other. I seen some posts that actually not like the APR Studs for the Heads due to removal is tough to lift heads off the block to clear the studs.
Any more input?
Again thanks in advance all.
09-24-2011, 11:50 AM
#10
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Fort St.John, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 180
Re: Best Combo for 383
When I build my '97 Z28, I used my stock LT1 block, had it bored, and clearanced for a 383. Bought a new Cola crankshaft, H beam rods, 10.8:1 compressor. Had my stock heads ported, but did not put in bigger valves, ported my stock intake myself. Comp Cams 306 cam, pro magnum rollers, pro magnum 1.7 roller rockers. FORD SVO 36 pound per hour fuel injectors, bigger throttle body, air pump delete. Electric water pump, etc. I only ran a 2800 stall, and had my tranny gone through to take the extra power. I ran a 100 shot of NOS, and the engine put out just over 600HP at the rear wheels on the dyno. No way your rear end will handle anything like this. Mine lasted about 2 weeks. If you are building anything along these lines, you had better start budgeting for a Moser 9". (that's what I bought)
This is just a broad outline of my setup. Many things are not listed. (frame rail connectors, trailing arms, drive shaft, etc) I loved that car, but it cost me a pile of cash to get it there. Expect to pay around $10K and up, to get somewhat close.
This is just a broad outline of my setup. Many things are not listed. (frame rail connectors, trailing arms, drive shaft, etc) I loved that car, but it cost me a pile of cash to get it there. Expect to pay around $10K and up, to get somewhat close.
09-24-2011, 12:03 PM
#11
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Location: Woodstown, NJ
Posts: 4,154
Re: Best Combo for 383
I don't see how a home-port heads/off the shelf cam/383 with ONLY a 100-shot could put down 600whp, but that's not the point here.
Kevin - if you want the details of how to get into the 10s N/A, just PM me and I'll give you a parts list. There's an easy way and a hard way to do it.
Kevin - if you want the details of how to get into the 10s N/A, just PM me and I'll give you a parts list. There's an easy way and a hard way to do it.
09-24-2011, 12:15 PM
#12
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Fort St.John, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 180
Re: Best Combo for 383
I don't see how a home-port heads/off the shelf cam/383 with ONLY a 100-shot could put down 600whp, but that's not the point here.
Kevin - if you want the details of how to get into the 10s N/A, just PM me and I'll give you a parts list. There's an easy way and a hard way to do it.
Kevin - if you want the details of how to get into the 10s N/A, just PM me and I'll give you a parts list. There's an easy way and a hard way to do it.
I'm not really one to have to justify myself, but MPH speaks for itself. I ran a small stall, and had my program backed off at low RPM to save the trans, hence the bad 1/4 mile times. (MPH is the true horsepower calculater, not 1/4 times) My car was a full load, leather, A/C, etc, with nothing gutted at all. Still managed a 127 MPH pass.
09-29-2011, 05:43 PM
#13
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Algonac, MI
Posts: 7
Re: Best Combo for 383
When I build my '97 Z28, I used my stock LT1 block, had it bored, and clearanced for a 383. Bought a new Cola crankshaft, H beam rods, 10.8:1 compressor. Had my stock heads ported, but did not put in bigger valves, ported my stock intake myself. Comp Cams 306 cam, pro magnum rollers, pro magnum 1.7 roller rockers. FORD SVO 36 pound per hour fuel injectors, bigger throttle body, air pump delete. Electric water pump, etc. I only ran a 2800 stall, and had my tranny gone through to take the extra power. I ran a 100 shot of NOS, and the engine put out just over 600HP at the rear wheels on the dyno. No way your rear end will handle anything like this. Mine lasted about 2 weeks. If you are building anything along these lines, you had better start budgeting for a Moser 9". (that's what I bought)
This is just a broad outline of my setup. Many things are not listed. (frame rail connectors, trailing arms, drive shaft, etc) I loved that car, but it cost me a pile of cash to get it there. Expect to pay around $10K and up, to get somewhat close.
This is just a broad outline of my setup. Many things are not listed. (frame rail connectors, trailing arms, drive shaft, etc) I loved that car, but it cost me a pile of cash to get it there. Expect to pay around $10K and up, to get somewhat close.
09-29-2011, 05:56 PM
#14
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Algonac, MI
Posts: 7
Re: Best Combo for 383
I don't see how a home-port heads/off the shelf cam/383 with ONLY a 100-shot could put down 600whp, but that's not the point here.
Kevin - if you want the details of how to get into the 10s N/A, just PM me and I'll give you a parts list. There's an easy way and a hard way to do it.
Kevin - if you want the details of how to get into the 10s N/A, just PM me and I'll give you a parts list. There's an easy way and a hard way to do it.
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