I was very happy with the cc503 when I ran it with stock heads. Ran a best et of ~12.5 with that setup.

 

Yeah, until there is so many posts with people saying search that you can't find the search in the search. At least throw something important in your topic.

Most people recommend the CC503 for stock head/CI motor.

 

The 503 is a decent shelf cam BUT most guys see it as about the limit of unported heads/stock shortblock. The wide LSA/low overlap make it mellower than many of the custom cams but it still wants some rpm.

Depending on what a person wants a smaller cam can be a good choice, there is a lot of room between stock and the 503.

 

What I'm gonna be looking for is to stay under 6,000 rpms or right at it, and a nice aggressive sound. I want the guy in his mustang gt to roll his windows up and cry to his mommy that the bad man scared him!! Lol. But like I said earlier I have a long way to go. So for now I play nice!

 

If you're not willing to pass 6000RPM then, IMO, an aftermarket cam isn't for you. Most cams will want to spin to at LEAST 6200+ to be worth it.

 

I have seen bolton b-bodies turn 5800 with their "detuned" cam compared to the f-body.

You could get a short duration cam with more overlap that would give you some more sound and should help power some so long as you understand that the rpm limit is severely limiting how much power you can gain.
6000 is an awfully low self imposed limit, even for a conservative setup I would suggest considering 6200 or so like Joe said.

 

picking the right cam is a is hard for a rookie like myself there is a lot
to consider grind, lobe,spin for the most part i don't understand
i want a cam that has a nice aggressive sound but not to radical
that will produce a decent hp gain most likely what the guy on #17
spec out for me because that's all i know that will work for my setup
cam is looking like its going to have to wait seems like the springs
1.6 rr , stall,tune and installation is going to eat my $1500 dollar budget up

 

The only reason I want to keep rpms down is because the car has 183,xxx miles and I really don't want a rod in the pan. But if Yall think the bottom end will hold then maybe ill consider spinning higher. I try to shift at 5800 now. Does a stock car pull past 5800?

 

What the factory tach reports and what you actually turn are unlikely to be the same number.
A stock cam with good valvesprings and 1.6 rockers is likely worth taking to 5800rpm, remember the shift is not just about where it starts to loose too much power but where it ends up after the shift. Typically a setup with good valvetrain is going to rev at the very least 300rpm past peak and 500 or more is even common.

 

You may want to consider a refresh. I'd be weary of that front cam bearing...

 

talked to Carolina auto master who also had a episode on the tv show pinks
people say that he is the best in the south east
drop my car off on Tuesday $700 dollars labor to change the rockers and tune it
does that seem like a fair price

 

People either seem to love or hate him with little in between.

 

700 to change rockers and tune? seems quite pricey to me. Rockers arent hard to do. Now dyno tunes can be 400-500 bucks it seems, which is pricey but seems to be what ppl charge these days atleast for most EFI systems and late model LSx/Ford/Dodge hemi stuff

 

hope to put 300hp with mod in my Sig do you guys think i will see that
1.6 rr will be installed on Tuesday along with. springs and a tune

 

Maybe 280 rwhp.