i have been told that the weakest link on the LT1 is the cam does anyone
know if this is true ? can i put in a bigger cam,springs,rockers and a tune
without porting the heads? or is this a bad idea and a waste of money
for the hp gains. read # 7 for my mods

 

The Search feature on this site is a great tool. Lots to read.

 

I currently have cam, roller rockers, springs, full exhaust(long tube headers catback), 30# FMS injectors, and CAI. I'm pleased with the gains. The real power is in the heads(from what I understand), but that is next on my list. If you can afford a head/cam package together, do it, but if funds are limited....cam, springs, roller rockers are a good place to start. Just realize that a full exhaust is needed to get the most out of the setup.

I picked up .3 tenths and 4 mph in the 1/8th by adding long tubes to my Z28. I ran stock exhaust manifolds and y-pipe for a while with just a cam, roller rockers, and springs. They are very restrictive with a good cam.

 

Don't forget that the quality of the install, parts, etc., means nothing without a QUALITY tune/tuner. By far that's the most important consideration that needs to be made.

 

A car needs a lot of mods before it is ready for a cam swap.
CAI, full exhaust, gears, at least a shift kit and stall is an A4.
Then there are stock parts that might be getting worn out to consider like the fuel pump which in good shape is enough for a cam only setup but at 17yo might no be in good shape anymore.
Then there are the things to consider or that are mandatory to do with the cam swap like tuning is mandatory and things like going a bit overkill on really good rockers/struds/guideplates, or optional like a larger TB.

You only have a few posts and no signature so we don't know where the car stands now.

Far as "weak link" I suppose engine wise it is the biggest holdup but full boltons can add a LOT of power with the stock cam in place.

 

You should be more specific and share more details as to what you are trying to accomplish, such as what do you plan on doing with your car, what mods you already have and so on.

 

Yep should have told you the whole story from the start this is what i have
car has 66,548 miles c.a.i full exhaust no cats air foil, sub frame. connectors
tower connector ? are whatever its called , headers, shift kit ,tires are 275/45/17
3:73 gears not trying to make a race car just want to get down the 1/8 faster than
79-81 mph without spraying it my budget is around $1500 thanks for any help

 

A Yank SS 3600 and some new DR's, and money left for springs, rockers.

 

Agreed a good converter would be a lot better mod at this point than a cam.

 

I agree too, a good quality converter is a great bang for the buck even on a stock car.

 

Converter will get you down the 1/8 quicker but not really change the 1/8 mile trap speed all that much more. May gain 1-2mph but not much more. I saw about 1-2mph overall on my 99 trans am ls1 bolt on car. Huge gain in ET but it doesnt really change power output, just keeps you in the power band longer which can give a few mph increase.

If you want to go much faster mph wise, you will need a cam. But as the other guys say above, you'll want a converter first before a cam swap since most cams will require a converter anyway to work best.

 

i bought this car with all the mods on it i didn't list a stall because I'm not sure if
it has one it does fell strong unlike my 96 convertible that is for sell if anyone wants
a project great body just needs everything else got a old picture in my album
guess i need to find out what the stock one is and test it the next time i drive it
by holding the brake and see when it stars to spin anyone known what the stock
one is and is this how you test it

 

pull the dustcover and take a pic of the converter and post it here.

 

In the 1/8th, I averaged in the 81mph range with a catback and CAI(all else stock). With my current mods, I've been averaging 87mph. Some nice gains for what I've done to it. With some slicks and suspension tweaks, I'd bet this thing is high 7's.

 

That should work. Also try going to the track on drag radials or slicks, something sticky that wont spin. Leave off idle and watch the rpms "flash" up as soon as you mash the gas. Try to gauge when the car starts to move forward and record the rpm. It will happen fast so it may be hard to get an accurate idea, but you will easily tell if its more than stock. Or you can do a slow mph roll speed and mash the throttle and watch the flash rpms before the car really starts moving. Wont be true stall but flash stall and get you in the ball park. Stock stuff is generally in the 1600 rpm range I believe. Probably wont beable to brake stall it too high maybe 1000-1200 rpm? Its been awhile since I had stock converters