I have a 96 M6 with slp shorties, slp loudmouth, dual cats, and cold air intake, what would be the best cam for my car? I have heard good things about the cc302 but who makes that cam?

 

haven't ever herd of the cc302 but i have the cc306 and it makes good power on the stock heads....Although it really depends what you are tring to do with the car and how far you want to take it.

 

ive had real good luck with my CC XE 230/236 112
ran a 12.3 with stock heads, 2 cats and shorty headers

 

What are your goals for the car? Do you race, or is it dailly driven? How high are you willing to rev it? The bigger you go with a cam, the higher youre going to have to rev to get into the powerband. Also, whats your tolerance for idle quality for cam surge?

Lastly, do you have a 6 speed or an auto? If you have an auto youre gonna want to look into a stall converter to compliment your cam.

I ask so many questions because there really isnt a "best cam." It all depends on your application.

 

I'll always be partial to the LT4 Hotcam. I had my heads gasket matched and had bigger valves and I went 12.2's with a 1.76 60 ft.

 

Sweetred95ta;;Were your heads ported? What valve (Mfg.) did you use? thanks

 

Comp 503-8 is a good all around cam. It has 224/230 duration figures at .050 and .503/.510 lift with 1.5 rockers. I went 11.70's with the cam and delivered pizzas in my car once in a while. It has a nice lope, and doesn't affect brakes or driving in any way. I used a cheap 2600 stall converter with it at first and still went 12.1x's. This was on a completely stock longblock with heads that had never been removed. It really woke the engine up.

 

At the time, I had bowl blending done on the heads, which is a minimal amount of porting. I used Manley's Race Flo valves (2.00/1.57). I still drove the car everyday and it didn't do too bad on gas. It has a healthy lope and tons of torque down low still (compared to bigger cams).

 

No matter what anyone tells you a custom designed camshaft is always the way to go. For stock or ported heads but especially for ported heads-match the cam to what your heads actually flow and you will be a happy camper.

 

The "problem" with off the shelf cams is the grinders try to idiotproof them and in doing so compromise power. They know far too many folks are going to think 230+ intake is a good idea for a stock compression stock headed car and spread the LSA so that when they do something stupid like that is is still drivable but the person who made that mistake never knows just how much midrange torque in particular they are missing. All they know is they have a big cam they cam brag about then along comes someone with a well thoughtout properly speced combo with a lot less cam and mops the floor with them.
The cam in my car is mid 220s intake and mid .500s lift I would not go that big in a car this big without the big compression jump we took to 11.5 through head milling and a thin gasket. This cam is not big but it is speced PROPERLY which is why it works well.

 

Geez man, an answer without an **** whippin' please! The fact is, every cam has a "sweet spot" and with any combo, you try to get components that match that sweet spot to work together. A custom grind may help with this process and shorten the amount of time needed to tweak the combo but bottom line is any combo needs to be worked with. What gets me is the people that go all out custom this and custom that and get a mail order tune with no dyno tuning to optimize their "custom setup". It makes no sense to me.

 

i have the same thing done to my heads....thing hammers