Hello there, My car was in my mechanic's for a EGR replacemnt and he found that two pushrods were bent. I had 3 that were bent and replaced back in Febuary and havn't put more than 1,000 miles on it since. One of the cylinders was bent again. I don't beat on it as it is a DD so what can be causing this?

 

needs some info first,Stock cam,springs,lifters push rods ect.What all do you have done to the car?

 

It has no internal mods, just a Borla cat-back. It's a Advanced Auto Parts remanufactored LT1 that was installed 3 years ago. It ran fine til surprise, the " lifetime" warranty expired and in Feb. had 3 pushrods replaced. The car went in for a EGR replacemnt and mech. found 2 more bent pushrods. One was even replaced first time.

All I know is the last time a certain piece of the valve cover is missing or never installed that causes adding a half a qt. of oil a month. Also it came bored 40 over. Thanks

 

Do you have the bent pushrods in hand?

Did the same mechanic install the reman'ed motor?

Did he set the valves when he installed the motor?

Did the same mechanic recommend the reman'ed motor?

What happened to the old motor?

You need to start getting answers from the guy who is screwing around inside your motor when he should be blocking off not replacing your EGR for $12. Setting valves in an LT1 is pretty much a set it and forget it kinda thing, someone is screwing up while inside your motor.

PS How much $ has he sucked out of you so far?

-Dustin-

 

This mechanic installed the new engine. The last one had a coolant hose blow and overheated

I did think of just blocking the EGR.

Only proof I have is ticking in the valvetrain. I am wondering if the reman. engine was made out of bird feathers to begin with that the pushrods are bending. I did see the last time I had this done all 3 of them that were bent.

I am suspicious of this guy has all he is a grease monkey who works on local short track cars . I started going to him after GM dealer's hourly labor rates went over $70 a hour.

They're alos the reason i went with the AAP reman. engine. When I was looking to buy, both local GM dealers wanted $10,000, yes 10G's a new one.
The AAV unit was much cheaper, but I was sold when they told me it would be stronger than stock and so forth.

 

Frankly put, your getting bent over, but dont worry we're here to help.

I wouldnt pay more than $1500 for a new LT1, not to mention that just because it overheated doesnt mean the motor is shot. You can build a badass motor for $10,000. I know guys who have overheated motors 4-5 times and they were fine, no warped heads or anything. Sounds like this mechanic is causing his own repeat business. I bet the reman engine isnt the problem, it's the retard mechanic overtightening the rockers and screwing up your motor. I taught my G/F how to set rockers last year, it's not hard, especially when the motor is running. What you need to do it stop shoveling money at this "mechanic" and find a local LT1/Fbody group. Then they can help you figure whats going on with your motor and help teach you to work on your own stuff.

Where in PA are you? Near what major cities? Can you turn a wrench? We will get you squared away.

-Dustin-

 

Tis true, I do belive he is hosing me for repeat business affairs. I am not mechanically inclines at all. Only thing I ever did myself with the car was slide a K&N panel filter in.

I do know through a friend a person who I am going to call and talk to. He has 2 LT1's and I can refer to him.

I am Pottsville. Thanks for the replies as I have be getting sick and tired of some of the lowlifes who I have put trust in only to see me as job security for themselves.

This is my DD and I have owned it since 98. No interest in build a street monster since I am smart enough to know the LS1 is much more suitable. The only real desire is no more worries about Opti's, ( had 7) air pickets in the cooling system and all the other ills of the LT1 that make me believe this may is the worse small block GM ever made.