I replaced mine at 65K mi. with an aftermarket unit. It started squeaking at 3 mo. and 1 wk. after installation (guess how long the warranty was?). Gm unit goes on next. I was hesitant about the plastic idler wheel anyway. Pretty easy fix.

 

I ripped the threads out of mine putting the belt on last year and had to go get a new one. Autozone was my first stop and luckly they had one in stock... unfortunately however it wasnt machined very well and slid the belt off destroying it in the process. I returned that one for an advanced autoparts unit and so far so good... it was a lot more expensive though.

 

where can you get a decent price on a tensioner? they're like 41 bucks at kragen and autozone

 

I don't believe you'll find one cheaper than that and before you purchase one from autozone, take a good look at it to make sure the pulley/wheel is parallel to the bracket that bolts to the motor. The one I got from them was tipped out at the top which instantly slid the belt off.

 

A brand new GM tensioner is less than $30 wholesale.

 

and you can get them from a chevy dealership?

 

Jason and Dal would sell them for that price. If you go to local dealer, you will pay retail (~$50), unless you know someone there that will sell to you at the lower price.

 

I replaced my tensioner at about 75k miles, bought it from car quest for ~50. came with a life time warranty, dont see me replacing it for a long long time but eh, ya never know.

 

Well today I got the Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set.
And it did not work.
So I have to take the whole bracket off to get this one bolt out.
I still would like to know how you stripe a six point bolt out with a six point socket?
Had to be striped before I tried to get it off?
I just hope I don't have to disconnect the power stearing pump.


Chris.

 

If the tensioner part is OK, and just the pulley bearing is bad:
Tensioner Pulley bearing p/n is; NTN 6203LU, there was also a
P/N on the side of the bearing NTN 6203EX4CSIS.or TIMKEN 203FF sealed bearing..
It can be replaced [bearing only]

 

Nope the spring in it is very weak.
I have to replace the whole Tensioner.
Got the new GM Tensioner too.

Thanks,
Chris.

 

I think I would cut the head off and get the tensioner out of the way, then you should be able to grab what is left of the bolt and get it out. I mean, you are basically going to have to do that anyway, even after you removing the bracket, wouldn't you?

 

Yea this is true.
But I was going to take it off and tap the Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover on it.
I was thinking that it would bite then.
It won't bite the head for some reason.
Unless I have enought room to double nut it and take it off?
Also Do you think I can hollow out my cat on my 97Z?
it's bad and I can't replace it now.
it's rattling bad and loud like popcorn.
Thanks.

Chris.

 

Ok I got the bolt off.
I had to use the Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover socket.
After putting a small extension on it and hitting it on with an air chisel with a blunt end in it.
It came out.
Man between the cat that sounds like I am poping pop corn and that squeeking belt tensioner.
It was driving me crazy.
I did not want to even drive the car.

So Thanks Agine,

Chris