LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

bellhousing removal

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 12, 2009 | 04:03 PM
  #1  
black95z0122's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 185
bellhousing removal

I can't get this last bolt of the bellhousing...I'm putting in a new clutch...the bolt is so close to the inside of the tunnel i can't get a socket or a wrench on it. Is there anyway to twist the motor to the side a little to get at this bolt?
Old May 12, 2009 | 04:51 PM
  #2  
GreasyB's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 326
From: Topeka, KS
You should beable to get atleast a swivel socket in there.
Old May 12, 2009 | 05:01 PM
  #3  
black95z0122's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 185
no. i tried a swivel socket. it just twists over the bolt. Its getting rounded which doesn't help. I even tried taking the passenger side motor mount out to lower the motor a bit but no luck. I'm thinking my only chance is to get at it strait on with a regular socket.Is there a way to lower the k-member a bit so i can twist the motor over so i can get at this thing?
Old May 12, 2009 | 06:21 PM
  #4  
lr383's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 116
From: Lancaster ca.
The bolt you are having trouble with this on dr. side I always drop the engine and trans down a couple of inches to get that bolt out. make a mark with a magic marker and when you take bell housing off make a small dent with a hammer so you can get to it next time. Good Luck!
Old May 12, 2009 | 06:47 PM
  #5  
black95z0122's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 185
can i just unbolt the k-member and drop the whole thing down an inch or two onto some jack stands w/o disconnecting anything?
Old May 12, 2009 | 06:55 PM
  #6  
lr383's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 116
From: Lancaster ca.
Sounds like that would work also but at a certain point the brake lines will have to be undone I have ever drop the k member down. I always pull motor out the top .but it sounds like it would work!
Old May 12, 2009 | 06:58 PM
  #7  
Injuneer's Avatar
Administrator
 
Joined: Nov 1998
Posts: 71,110
From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
No need to drop the entire engine. Take your temporary support out from under the back of the engine/tranny. Push up on the damper, and the back of the engine will tilt down far enough to give you access to the bolt.
Old May 12, 2009 | 10:42 PM
  #8  
black95z0122's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 185
I'll give it a shot....I don't know if moving it down will really help its one of the bolts on the drivers side of the bellhousing. I really need some room on the side rather than the top.
Old May 13, 2009 | 02:24 PM
  #9  
lr383's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 116
From: Lancaster ca.
A other way is to use a couple of long ext`s . and reach over the trans to take that bolt out and put it in .I put the top ones in that way.Kept at it you will get!
Old May 13, 2009 | 02:59 PM
  #10  
bw_hunter's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,942
From: Kissimmee, Fl, USA
I could get a socket on mine but not the drive. A 'wobble' extension solved that dilemma....
Old May 13, 2009 | 03:25 PM
  #11  
wrd1972's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,405
From: Kantuckee Yo'
Originally Posted by Injuneer
No need to drop the entire engine. Take your temporary support out from under the back of the engine/tranny. Push up on the damper, and the back of the engine will tilt down far enough to give you access to the bolt.
Do what /\ said.
You can also pry the sheet metal around the bolt up to get better access. That and a swivel socket and your golden.
Old May 13, 2009 | 03:42 PM
  #12  
Spartan7's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 171
Originally Posted by wrd1972
Do what /\ said.
You can also pry the sheet metal around the bolt up to get better access. That and a swivel socket and your golden.
That's what I did. Crowbar and a swivel socket work wonders on that bolt.
Old May 13, 2009 | 04:05 PM
  #13  
SnakeOiler's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 391
From: Fredericksburg, VA
Using a swivel socket and bringing down the rear of the engine as far as it would go did the trick for me.
Old May 13, 2009 | 06:08 PM
  #14  
ACE1252's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 2,068
From: Kernersville, NC
I had no problem using a socket and universal joint on all the bell housing bolts. Now the universal joint did contact the trans tunnel some....but a little touch up paint solved it.
Old May 13, 2009 | 09:48 PM
  #15  
95Blackhawk's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,277
From: Phoenix, AZ
Originally Posted by lr383
A other way is to use a couple of long ext`s . and reach over the trans to take that bolt out and put it in .I put the top ones in that way.Kept at it you will get!
Yeah, what he did. Took, I think, 2 ft or more of extensions but it worked. Never saw that much of an extension before I did it myself.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:10 PM.