Beginning my 383 project.
Beginning my 383 project.
After spinning a bearing late last year I decided that I should just build a 383.
After doing a ton of research and thinking over the process I feel like I have a basic idea of what I’m looking to accomplish.
1. A streetable car (meaning that it will have reasonable street manners.)
As a indicator or street manners, before the “Incident” I was running a 233/239 on a 114 lsa in my 350 so I can deal with tweak the tune to make it better but I want to be able to drive the car around town and fill up at the local gas station that carries 93 octane.
2. Capable of handling Nitrous with a reasonable shot (150 to 200). Primarily for track use probably twice a month.
3. I figure that my engine builder can help me determine that RPM range that I will run depending on the rotating assembly so I can select and appropriate cam for powerband and head flow.
So now to the part.
I have two choices in mind but I’m always open to comments from experience.
Scat 9000 Crank
Scat 4340 I-Beam Rod (I’m thinking 5.7” so that crown thickness isn’t compromised)
KB Forged or SRP Dished pistons to achieve at 10.4 compression
Compression Ration is figuring stock deck height and gasket thickness so compression ratio could go up before it is said and done.
Ring configuration is 1/16 x 1/16 x 3/16 so not sure they would be ideal for nitrous
Scat part numbers are 1-91105-1 and 1-91110-1 depending on piston selection.
As for bearings and rings I figured that I would just leave that up to the builder to use what he likes and feels will work with my setup.
I have spoken with Bret (StrokerAce) and I think I’m going to get in contact with him to do the block work and short block assembly. He doesn’t know that yet but I figure that he’ll either see this or I’ll give him a call….LOL. Ultimately I think I’m going to leave it up to him to give me some real world scenarios and assist me in getting the correct parts for my setup.
Your probably asking yourself so whats the point. I would like to get other peoples real world experience with a similar setup or the parts that I have mentioned.
If I haven’t mentioned something that I should be considering please mention that as well.
Just to add extra info…I will also be putting in a 9” rear and a Spec 3 clutch to handle the additional power but feel free to list what you think of I should be thinking about.
Thanks all
Jeff
After doing a ton of research and thinking over the process I feel like I have a basic idea of what I’m looking to accomplish.
1. A streetable car (meaning that it will have reasonable street manners.)
As a indicator or street manners, before the “Incident” I was running a 233/239 on a 114 lsa in my 350 so I can deal with tweak the tune to make it better but I want to be able to drive the car around town and fill up at the local gas station that carries 93 octane.
2. Capable of handling Nitrous with a reasonable shot (150 to 200). Primarily for track use probably twice a month.
3. I figure that my engine builder can help me determine that RPM range that I will run depending on the rotating assembly so I can select and appropriate cam for powerband and head flow.
So now to the part.
I have two choices in mind but I’m always open to comments from experience.
Scat 9000 Crank
Scat 4340 I-Beam Rod (I’m thinking 5.7” so that crown thickness isn’t compromised)
KB Forged or SRP Dished pistons to achieve at 10.4 compression
Compression Ration is figuring stock deck height and gasket thickness so compression ratio could go up before it is said and done.
Ring configuration is 1/16 x 1/16 x 3/16 so not sure they would be ideal for nitrous
Scat part numbers are 1-91105-1 and 1-91110-1 depending on piston selection.
As for bearings and rings I figured that I would just leave that up to the builder to use what he likes and feels will work with my setup.
I have spoken with Bret (StrokerAce) and I think I’m going to get in contact with him to do the block work and short block assembly. He doesn’t know that yet but I figure that he’ll either see this or I’ll give him a call….LOL. Ultimately I think I’m going to leave it up to him to give me some real world scenarios and assist me in getting the correct parts for my setup.
Your probably asking yourself so whats the point. I would like to get other peoples real world experience with a similar setup or the parts that I have mentioned.
If I haven’t mentioned something that I should be considering please mention that as well.
Just to add extra info…I will also be putting in a 9” rear and a Spec 3 clutch to handle the additional power but feel free to list what you think of I should be thinking about.
Thanks all
Jeff
Re: Beginning my 383 project.
dont even bother choosing parts..........just call brett, tell him your goals, your budget, and hell do all the choosing for you.
like many can tell ya.......you dont get good results by picking and choosing parts......rely on the builders experience to know what works together.
btw......i wouldnt bother with the scat 9000, too many have gone bad for people......spend just a couple bucks more and get a forged eagle crank, its a much stronger piece.
like many can tell ya.......you dont get good results by picking and choosing parts......rely on the builders experience to know what works together.
btw......i wouldnt bother with the scat 9000, too many have gone bad for people......spend just a couple bucks more and get a forged eagle crank, its a much stronger piece.
Re: Beginning my 383 project.
I have a set up that is close but went with the forged crank and H-beams and stuck a set of AFR comp ported 195's up top. I chose the cc 306 because I wanted a very streetable car that made over 400 pounds of TQ at the wheels and it worked out great. My car idles at 900 RPM with zero cam surge and pulls like a freight train. If I was going to go any bigger with the cam I would have went SR.
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