LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

before i waist money: this is fpr prob right?

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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 07:36 AM
  #1  
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before i waist money: this is fpr prob right?

im about to goto the parts store and buy a fuel pressure regulator but before i do i want to make sure that it is my starting problem...

when i start the car the first time it will almost always(but not always) take around 4 seconds of just cranking until it starts to fire at witch point it will fire right up.

as soon as its started it just goes and stays right at 1000 until its warmed up at which point it will idle at 600, somewhat smoothly

if i shut it off and start it right back up(like 10 second in between) it will fire right up.

If i shut if off and wait like 10 minutes it will usually take a long time to crank again, but sometimes it seems that if i start the car at just the right time while the fuel pump is priming it will sometimes fire right up

i just need to make sure that the fuel pressure regullator is most likley the problem before i go throwing money i barley have at it.

and one last think, i was thinking about getting this one:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=484&ptset=A

but is it any good and will it work, it is adjustable and the cheapest one they have, and would anyone know what adjusted fuel pressure it is from factory

THANKS!!!
Old Jun 10, 2005 | 07:45 AM
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Re: before i waist money: this is fpr prob right?

Not trying to ask a stupid question but have you ran injector cleaner through it? Changed your fuel filter? Just wanted to make sure before you bought a fpr. If you have done those 2 things then I would suggest the fpr
Old Jun 10, 2005 | 07:49 AM
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Re: before i waist money: this is fpr prob right?

the fuel filter was changed when i bought the car and yes i have ran some basic fuel system / fuel injector cleaner as well as seafoam through the car.

sorry... i meant to include that in first post.

ok thanks much!!!
Old Jun 10, 2005 | 08:23 AM
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Re: before i waist money: this is fpr prob right?

pull the vac line on the FPR off to see if its wet, if its not,un bolt and pull the fuel rails up and see if an injector is leaking at KOEO. If you have a fuel pressure test gauge monitor your fuel pressure bleed down after you turn the engine on and back off. Do this at least before you blow money on something you don't need.
Old Jun 10, 2005 | 08:33 AM
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Re: before i waist money: this is fpr prob right?

Good thought Feenix! These guys know what they are talking about This board is great man
Old Jun 10, 2005 | 08:36 AM
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Re: before i waist money: this is fpr prob right?

well the vac line wasnt soaked or anything but it had a little wetness on the ends of the connector, should i still try the injector leak.

is all i have to do to move the fuel rail up to see injectors just remove the 4 bolts ?

no fuel pressure guage though...

thanks much!
Old Jun 10, 2005 | 08:44 AM
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Re: before i waist money: this is fpr prob right?

Yes to raise the rails you just unbolt the 4 bolts, but you may need some carb/throttle body cleaner to get the injectors out of the manifold bores easily since they've been seated a long time if they are original and will most likey be gummed up in there and be tough to come out, I know mine were. Once the carb cleaner set in though, they pretty much popped right out with all the O rings still in tact. Otherwise its very easy.

Thanks for the compliment,but I owe credit to slopo and Fred (Injuneer) as they are LARGE contributors to my growing knowledge of these motors.
Old Jun 10, 2005 | 08:59 AM
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Re: before i waist money: this is fpr prob right?

well i dont know if im doing this right, i unbolted it and it slides a little but no up/down action at all...

i dont have any carb cleaner here, and with my car disabled i cant really go anywhere...

and dont forget shbox for his large amount of information

edit: well for now i cant mess with it for a few minutes, have to goto store to get MILK!!!!.....

thanks!

Last edited by tc3; Jun 10, 2005 at 09:20 AM.
Old Jun 10, 2005 | 09:22 AM
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Re: before i waist money: this is fpr prob right?

yeah, your O rings are seated tight, im not to sure about anything else to use to safely unseat the O rings without damaging them with the possibility of them falling into the bores that would then lead to needing the entire upper manifold removed to retrieve them, and im sure you don't want that right now. I'd say best bet is to bolt them all back up and pick ya up some carb cleaner. If you have a lil cash a fuel pressure test gauge would be a very good investment while you're at it, these types of problems will come about here and there and the gauge will pay for itself eventually. Now earlier when you said it wasn't soaked but there was a "slight" wetness. Does it smell like raw fuel and is there any on the tip or just inside the vac hose itself?? If there is fuel on the hose tip, the diaphragm to the FPR most likely ruptured and that could be your cause of the hard starts due to the excess fuel leaking into the manifold and flooding the motor once its been shut off.
Old Jun 10, 2005 | 10:04 AM
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Re: before i waist money: this is fpr prob right?

it was on the tip... so that floods the engine? i always thought that it was because the fuel pressure is lost and then just takes a second for it to build fuel pressure because of the fpr

i just got back, (bolted everything back up and all) and couldnt really see any wetness but it definently smells like fuel...

EDIT: actually i can see some wetness but it is on the tip of the plastic hose, visible only after taking the rubber elbow off, so its like its getting sent through the vac line and then getting caught on the sudden hose...??

so that means its bad right?

Last edited by tc3; Jun 10, 2005 at 10:06 AM.
Old Jun 10, 2005 | 10:12 AM
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Re: before i waist money: this is fpr prob right?

yep, replace the FPR.

EDIT: no it doesn't really take time to build pressure up when the Diaphragm ruptures, Maybe you are thinking of the check valve in the fuel pump? It is actually leaking fuel through into the line that finds its way into the manifold where it accumulates and after afew hours there's enough there to flood the engine and cause hard starts. You may also want to check your oil for a fuel smell. The fuel that leaks into the manifold will eventually run down into your crankcase as well. Try starting the car at WOT and see if it makes it easier as well. Opening up the throttle blades completely puts the car into "flood mode" which cuts fuel delivery until the engine actually starts.

Last edited by Feenix; Jun 10, 2005 at 10:18 AM.
Old Jun 10, 2005 | 10:15 AM
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Re: before i waist money: this is fpr prob right?

YAY!!!


...dont know why im happy about having to spend 60+ dollars but it will be good to finally get rid of this embarasing startup...

THANKS!!!
Old Jun 10, 2005 | 01:28 PM
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Re: before i waist money: this is fpr prob right?

what am i doing wrong? i am trying to unbolt the fpr, i have a small ratchet with a 1/4 socket with the t27 bit in it, it wont work, it wont loosen at all... and actually i think its starting to strip slightly.

i just got some carb cleaner and sprayed around the injectors so maybe i can pull them off?

what exactly should come up with the injectors, will it just be an oring, i dont wanna end up loosing something or droping something in there?

thanks

well autozone messed up, the one they gave me is the one for 93, which has a different bracket, so now i have to wait until monday for the money to go into the bank and then order one online...

thanks for everything.

and for when i install that one i saw these keys at autozone that are like hex keys but they have torqs ends so it should work perfect for reaching behind there...

Last edited by tc3; Jun 10, 2005 at 02:48 PM.
Old Jun 10, 2005 | 06:06 PM
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Re: before i waist money: this is fpr prob right?

You need a disconnect tool for the fuel lines as well, here's a good walk through.

http://shbox.com/1/quick_connect.jpg

the only thing that will come up with the injectors are the injectors themselves and should still have the O rings attached. They are a bit hard to come up and you will need to do some prying, I pryed mine up and they popped out with O rings still in tact in place. Be careful when prying though as to not bend or break anything, most people pry at the cross over pipe at the front of the manifold. You will defiantly need to keep spraying on some carb cleaner most likely, I myself would have never gotten mine out without Spraying and prying spraying and prying at it. At least without damaging something (like my crossover pipe).
Old Jun 10, 2005 | 08:32 PM
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Re: before i waist money: this is fpr prob right?

ok, gotcha so once i can get the fpr and realize that i cant get it off without taking the rail off, i just unbolt rail, spray and pry,

without disconecting the fuel lines, i should be able to move it around enough to get better access of the fpr so it can come off...

thanks!



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