Ok just had my car checked out and I have to replace the water pump and opti. I have a couple questions. One is it hard to do myself or should I have someone do it? Next is should I go with an electric water pump for improved performance? If I do where do you tie in the electric for those kind of pumps? I also would like to know if I am better of just using a regular water pump or not. Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated.

 

depends on your mechanical ability, it's not that hard of a job, but if you don't know which end of a screwdriver to use then it's a nightmare - as for what parts to use, that depends on how deep your pockets are - I would stick with stock parts myself

 

That was the first repair I did on my car, WP and opti. It's not that hard. Get a Haynes manual at least. I would go with a stock WP if you're not too electrically inclined, IMHO. And check out shoebox's site for some tips:

http://shbox.com/page/index.html

 

An electric water pump will free up a few HP and FT#, but if you daily drive your Z, then I'd stick with a stock type pump...

As for the opti, the general consensus is that the OEM GM replacement is the most relaible choice... You can find cheaper, but there seem to be more reports of the cheap ones failing prematurely... I've never had the GM Opti fail...

As for how hard the job is...
disconnect battery
jack up the front of the car and securely support with jack stands and chack the rear wheels...
remove the intake elbow, maf, etc...
drain the radiator, and remove the block drain plug and knock sensor...
remove the hoses from the waterpump and remove the temp sensor...
remove the serpentine belt
remove the air pump
remove the water pump
remove the ballancer pulley
mark and disconnect your plug wires from the opti
remove the opti...

thoroughly clean the mating surfaces where the waterpump connects to the block.

use all new gaskets and seals...

install in reverse order of removal....

Take your time and do it yourself... A shop will charge a fortune to do this job...

 

you forgot to tell him to invest in a pulley puller and pully press tool. you will need to remove the power steering pulley to remove one of the water pump bolts on the passenger side.

also i changed mine last week without removing the block drain and knock sensor. also as i learned the hard way open both vents, one on t stat housing and one on heater hose when refilling.

i did all mine without jacking up the car......remove the cooling fans to free up aot of room which you will need. if you are tall count on your back hurting from leaning way over the front end...lol i did all mine from the top.....i hate jacking my cars up because too many old people will hit your car while you are under it in my town.... lol

 

Don't remove PS pump pulley just unscrew the pump mount bolts with a socket and extention then move it a little to clear. You can access the bolts thru the holes in the pulley. Another trick is to fill the cooling system back up thru the thermostat housing before installing the stat. This will fill the block and minimize air pockets. Remove fan assy for access. Very easy. No need to drain block just radiator. A little trick I use when changing pumps or heads is to use an old wet/dry shop vac to suck water and dry out water jackets and bolt holes. Works great.

 

I called the dealer knowing it would cost a lot but was curious. they want $1100 to replace both of them. I laughed at the guy. Thats $600 more for labor on something they can do in 2 hours or less. What a rip off. I need to change my spakplug wires while I'm doing this. I hate everything on the passenger side because I can't reach most things even with headers. Thanks for all the advice though.

 

I didn't have to move or remove the power steering pump pulley on mine.

That's very good advice!

That's cheaper than I was quoted for labor. They can't even dream of doing this job in 2 hours... It will likely take you at least 8 hours. If you're going to change the spark plug wires and route them in the stock looms, add at least another 3 or 4 hours for that alone... If I had headers, I'd be going over the valve covers with my wires.... WAY easier...

 

I should route my wires over the motor. Are they long enough going that route? I am getting ready to order heat shield tubing for the wires before I repalce them. Added protection.

 

Wow what a difference in the wat it runs. I think the old opti had some real issues cause this feels like a whole new car. Just need to do plug wires but I am waiting for the heat shielding boots to keep from the arching I have right now. I am doing it right the first time.

 

I just ran the new MSD 8.5mm Wires and with the new opti what a difference. Sound and acts like a new car. It is runing great now. All the money and work has payed off. I just think I need to stick the stock Tanny mount back in so it isn't so rough. The she will be completely done for now. I have dropped a lot of money and now need to wait a bit before I start upgrading more.

 

I would add a couple things to the "to do" list. The radiator cover on top of the radiator saddle is held on by three bolts. It's the plastic piece with the serpentine belt diagram, A/C freon info and such. Remove the three bolts, unplug your radiator fans, an once the rad hoses are out, you can remove the whole fan unit from the radiator. It sits on perches. Just lift it up. Will give you tons of room to work.
Also, to remove the opti, you'll have to get the crank pulley out. I use a LT1 crank pulley from Kent Moore. But I've seen some other posts that just unbolt the three bolts, and used a 3 jaw puller. This removes only the pulley, but that's what's in the way.