bad motor mounts?
bad motor mounts?
I was wondering what the symptoms of bad motor mounts usually are. This is what I've noticed.
When shifting into reverse or driver there is a jolt. (not the trans mount because thats been replaced and I know its fine still)
THe Y-pipe hits the floor under even light throttle now.
When going under i can see that the y-pipe is even closer to the floor board then it was before. Its like it is continuously getting closer like one of the mounts is sagging or something.
Do you think its time to do a mount swap? and how hard is this usually to do?
When shifting into reverse or driver there is a jolt. (not the trans mount because thats been replaced and I know its fine still)
THe Y-pipe hits the floor under even light throttle now.
When going under i can see that the y-pipe is even closer to the floor board then it was before. Its like it is continuously getting closer like one of the mounts is sagging or something.
Do you think its time to do a mount swap? and how hard is this usually to do?
Re: bad motor mounts?
When you feel the jolt have someone look at the engine, if it's moving then it's definately time for new mounts. Replacing the mounts weren't too hard. Replacing the mounts with poly mounts will be a little more difficult then using OEM mounts. The poly mounts reuse the original clamshells which requires you to drill out the rivets and maybe grind off a few. I forget, it's been almost a year.
Have you checked the u-joints? Bad u-joints or slop somewhere else in the drivetrain could sometimes feel like a jolt.
Have you checked the u-joints? Bad u-joints or slop somewhere else in the drivetrain could sometimes feel like a jolt.
Re: bad motor mounts?
also what's involved in changing over to poly mounts when motor is in the car. I suspect using a hoist to slighly lift the motor and then ripping the mounts out, changing them, then back in.
Is it tough w/motor in the car? What must be removed?
Thanks.
Is it tough w/motor in the car? What must be removed?
Thanks.
Re: bad motor mounts?
Me and a friend just replaced mine this week with the Prothane version. I have long tube headers, and it didnt require removing anything but the mounts themselves.... the symptoms that I had were my y-pipe banging into the floor... the mounts were well worth it, and completely fixed any banging noises
. truth be told, this is one of the hardest installs that I have ever done on my car. I think a header install is actually easier. you will definatly need some way to hold the motor up weather it is a hoist, or a jack under the oil pan. also have some pry bars ready, they are a must for this install... seems like everything is "just a hair" off and needs to be lined up. regarding removing the rivets: have some good drill bits, and if you have access to a grinder and even a hand held grinder would be useful.
. truth be told, this is one of the hardest installs that I have ever done on my car. I think a header install is actually easier. you will definatly need some way to hold the motor up weather it is a hoist, or a jack under the oil pan. also have some pry bars ready, they are a must for this install... seems like everything is "just a hair" off and needs to be lined up. regarding removing the rivets: have some good drill bits, and if you have access to a grinder and even a hand held grinder would be useful.
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dbusch22
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Jan 5, 2015 07:14 PM



