Ok I should have the heads by like monday or tuesday and put them on then.. In the meantime the car is pretty dirty.. so here are my questions..
1. I want to paint the manifold Black or a similar color.. What do I use..
2. Cleaning the manifold, is it ok to spray the crap out of it with carb/intake cleaner and hose it off, including under the oil catch pan thing on the bottom of the intake?
3. I sprayed WD 40 on a paper towel and wiped the block down when I firest took off the heads.. SO far no rust.. What do I do if rust occurs?
4. I was trying to clean the pistons with a paper towel and carb cleaner.. Is this ok? Also I may have gotten some crap between the pistons and the walls.. How do I get it out? (Block is in car).
5. EGR block plate. What can I use around the house? Old paint can material? lid?
5. oil pan, do I have to drop it to put the timing cover back on? Can i just lean it in?
6. What else can I do? Sensors to clean? (i already cleaned the crap out of the TB) Bolts ave been cleand out aswell..
7. How do I get the timing sproket off on the hub? Where do the timing marks line up when I put it back together? its at #1 TDC..

 

 

Wasup Nick......you put two #5's, lol.

1) any engine paint will work......black would be really cool, that's what I plan on doing when I finally install a cam one of these days.
2) I don't see why carb/intake cleaner wouldn't work. I would use that and an old toothbrush...worked great on my TB.
5) for the intake you can use metal from a soda can with RTV silicone. Do your mac's have EGR fittings? You'll need something thicker for those.
5 #2) No need to drop the oil pan....just don't f*ck up the gasket.

 

1. You can use any color you want Id used Engine Enamel from Dupli-Color, then used my die grinder to highlight the top LT4 style.

2. Yes, Carb cleaner is a good cleaner to use. Just be sure to remove your sensors first. Just in case.

3. It shouldn't rust must on the deck, if by some chance if does, some 180 grit sand paper would work just fine. I would strangely shower my engine once a week with a quart of oil just to rust proof...Ah the things you do for love..

4. Yes it's ok to clean the walls with carb cleaner, but papertowels aren't a good thing to use. But the worst case scenario, is getting some paper or dirt between the walls, it'll all be burnt and blown out the exhaust. No biggie.

5. ??? Don't know what you're talking about here, I have no EGR anymore.... it's been a while. Oh, I bought my block off kit off ebay for $13.

6. More to do...? Gap your spark plugs, clean engine bay while you got the room, Clean Ground connections on the block, Soak your lifters in oil, clean your tools, clean car, many things

7. Gear puller, preferably the 3 jaw type. When putting it all back together, the Crank Gear should be @ 12 o'clock, and the cam gear should be @ 6 o'clock. So they're pointing at one another.

IT's been a while since I put my cam in and I forgot if #1 Cylinder should be a TDC on the intake or the exhaust stroke???

Well I hope this helps. I think you're really impatient and anxious to get it back together, I'm like that

 

.. Thanks guys! yea i put two 5s, woops...lol..

The stuff in the pistons i thought could hurt the piston rings.. Also i didnt get them very clean.. what can i use? And shower like my pistons with oil? no right? Also when i took the heads off some coolant fell into the pistons and got into the oil.. Pouring a few quarts through to clean it will be ok right? I have all the egr stuff blocked off except the valve itself, no air pump either, also i have lt1 edit done on the car and the egr was deleted..


How can i tell if the piston is on the intake or exhaust stroke? and how do i find out which it needs to be?

 

Also on the paint.. What can i spray on it to keep it shiny? like maybe an enamel clear? You think one coat is enough?

 

You must use the cam position to determine #1 TDC.
Easy to remember if you have the cam timing gear on:

"dot at 6 = #6 TDC" cam dowel pin is at 3

dot at 12 = #1 TDC cam dowel pin is at 9

The pistons will be at the same exact location at 1 or 6 TDC. It's the cam position that determines which.


If you get any crud in the cylinders, use a shop vac to clean it out.

I would drop the front of the pan or you are going to have a heckuva time getting the timing cover on (especially if the w/p seal is in it). The oil pan is made to go on over the timing cover. Not dropping the pan down is asking for trouble.

 

I dont remember where the cam dowel was... Does it really matter? Cant i set it up for the intake stroke by Putin the timing marks on facing eachother at #1 TDC???


EDIT:: shoebox... i sent some pics of how everything was before i took it off..

 

Maybe you missed the point of what I said above. The dowel pin and the gear dot will follow each other. The dots facing each other is #6 TDC (like I said "6 o'clock = #6") and when it is at #6, the dowel pin will be at 3 o'clock (you can't change that relationship).