Here's the codes they came up with. PO154, PO155, PO410. They said the 154 and 155 is my o2 sensor 1 in bank 2 and the 410 is a malfunction in the secondary air injection system. I just put 2 new o2's up front not even 500 miles ago, so how can something be wrong with the o2. Which one is that, the one on the drivers side or passenger's side? What is the 410 problem with the air? Any help is appreciated.

 

Did you pull the battery cable before getting the codes to clear the PCM memory? Some of those codes may be old and just being stored.

 

Pasky has a good point. Did AZ tell you they were current or history codes?

P0154 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) insufficient signal activity Bank 2 Sensor 1
P0155 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) heater circuit Bank 2 Sensor 1

Bank 2 is the passenger side. Sensor 1 is the pre cat sensor. Sounds like your O2 has failed or is not connected.

P0410 Secondary Air Injection (AIR) system . Check your AIR pump fuse.

 

first off, check all your fuses. ALL of them. THere is a fuse that controls the air pump and the o2 heating element. That is prolly the cause.

 

I cleared the codes a few days ago, and then the light came on a short time after that. I just hooked up my air diverter valves, air tubes today to the headers, so I think that might have been my PO410 prob. Only thing I can think of for the o2 codes is the connector not being tight. They are new bought extensions and not home made. What do you guys think?

 

If anything and you replaced them recently, see if their covered under warranty.

 

I bought them from Jason Cromer, so I don't know how to go about seeing if they're covered under warranty. I think i'll just clear the codes and double check the connector on that o2. If fuses are ok, would not having my air tubes hooked up to the headers cause that PO410 one? Prior to today, they were just capped off. Thanks for all the quick replies guys. I appreciate it.

 

Based on Rob's code listing, you have a heater problem with the O2 sensor. Could be a faulty sensor, bad extension, burned wire, or the fuse that supplies +12V to the sensor. You need to check the heater circuit. And, the diagnostic for P0154 is a check on the circuit continuity for the sensing element, and the code is set when sensor voltage does not vary outside the range of 352-452mV. Sounds like the whole sensor may be disonnected, or because of the long tubes, the sensor can not get hot enough to start working, because the heater circuit is faulty.

According to my code listing, the P0410 sets when the PCM does not see the correct response to the air flow from the AIR pump. The "active" part of the diagnostic turns on the AIR pump during closed loop operation, and looks for a lean condition at the O2 sensor (less than 222mV for more than 1.5 seconds). You can't disconnect the AIR pump in OBD-II without getting the codes. It has to be "programmed out" of the PCM.

 

UPDATE. I found the purple wire on my brand new extension melted and broken. So I guess this is the problem with my o2. For now, I just twisted the wire back together. Is this no good doing this? I drove around about 50 miles tonight and didn't get no SES light on. Car was running a little ruff at times. Coasting down a hill doing 40-50, no gas, no brakes, the rpm's were 400 for a few seconds, the on it's own go up to 800 and come right back down to 400. Almost like it was surging. Is this related to that wire for the o2? Let me know what you guys think. Thanks for the direction and advice so far.

 

The purple wire is the "signal" wire. The O2 signal level is in the range of 0-1,000 millivolts. Simply "twisting the wire back together" does not provide a reliable connection, and may result in inaccurate O2 sensor readings due to voltage loss. Clean things up and solder it correctly.