ATI Super Dampers. Anyone use them?
Well for a while now my car seems to have a bit more engine vibration than I ever remember. Would this be a sign of "Crankshaft Torsional Vibration." that ATI super damper is supposed to help? They are expensive but if it will help it would be something to really consider.
Thanks
Thanks
I'm running one. While a damper is one of those mods that are difficult to quantify results with, I can tell you that the car runs VERY smoothly with it. I don't have any before/after scenarios for you, as I'm running with a completely new setup.
Originally posted by 4drLT4
I'm running one. While a damper is one of those mods that are difficult to quantify results with, I can tell you that the car runs VERY smoothly with it. I don't have any before/after scenarios for you, as I'm running with a completely new setup.
I'm running one. While a damper is one of those mods that are difficult to quantify results with, I can tell you that the car runs VERY smoothly with it. I don't have any before/after scenarios for you, as I'm running with a completely new setup.
From what I've read, the ATI Super Damper is more suited for engines frequently seeing 6k+ rpm's (or more of a race application). The Fluidamper is more appropriate for the street, or where the engine normally lives at below 6k rpm's.
Again, it's just what I've read, but Summit carries both of them. Before spending the $$, it wouldn't hurt to double check and find out which one would be your best bet.
Again, it's just what I've read, but Summit carries both of them. Before spending the $$, it wouldn't hurt to double check and find out which one would be your best bet.
I'd find out why it suddenly started to vibrate after the cam and removing the UD pulley. Did you check the condition of the stock damper? Is it possible you damaged the rubber ring when you removed it and reinstalled it? Is is possible you have the stock hub rotated more than a few degrees off the TDC keyway in the crank?
In general, the stock damper is only a "damper" but there appears to be some evidence that in cases of poor factory balance, they used the stock damper for fine balance, using the holes around the edge. The "Rebuilding the LT1" article recommends rotating the damper in 90-degree increments to see how it affects engine vibration, at least if there are a lot of holes drilled in it, or any small weights in the holes.
I'd find the problem first, before trying to cover it up with a $350 aftermarket damper.
In general, the stock damper is only a "damper" but there appears to be some evidence that in cases of poor factory balance, they used the stock damper for fine balance, using the holes around the edge. The "Rebuilding the LT1" article recommends rotating the damper in 90-degree increments to see how it affects engine vibration, at least if there are a lot of holes drilled in it, or any small weights in the holes.
I'd find the problem first, before trying to cover it up with a $350 aftermarket damper.
Originally posted by Injuneer
I'd find out why it suddenly started to vibrate after the cam and removing the UD pulley. Did you check the condition of the stock damper? Is it possible you damaged the rubber ring when you removed it and reinstalled it? Is is possible you have the stock hub rotated more than a few degrees off the TDC keyway in the crank?
In general, the stock damper is only a "damper" but there appears to be some evidence that in cases of poor factory balance, they used the stock damper for fine balance, using the holes around the edge. The "Rebuilding the LT1" article recommends rotating the damper in 90-degree increments to see how it affects engine vibration, at least if there are a lot of holes drilled in it, or any small weights in the holes.
I'd find the problem first, before trying to cover it up with a $350 aftermarket damper.
I'd find out why it suddenly started to vibrate after the cam and removing the UD pulley. Did you check the condition of the stock damper? Is it possible you damaged the rubber ring when you removed it and reinstalled it? Is is possible you have the stock hub rotated more than a few degrees off the TDC keyway in the crank?
In general, the stock damper is only a "damper" but there appears to be some evidence that in cases of poor factory balance, they used the stock damper for fine balance, using the holes around the edge. The "Rebuilding the LT1" article recommends rotating the damper in 90-degree increments to see how it affects engine vibration, at least if there are a lot of holes drilled in it, or any small weights in the holes.
I'd find the problem first, before trying to cover it up with a $350 aftermarket damper.
The only thing that may be off, and that is a very small maybe is the stock HUB. When I re-installed it I was as carfull as I can possibly be with getting the hub back into the correct spot. Without a keyed hub it is kinda a crap shoot. I had it marked & the hub had an impression from the keyway on the crank to also help me line it up. However that doesn't mean when I was "Pressing" it back on that it didn't move a bit. But from my markings it didn't move at all. I have been trying to figure out why I feel more vibrations to no avail. I am the last one to ever want to just "Cover Up" a problem without finding out why. Hence the post asking about this damper. The ATI web site says their damper is great for cars that see more than 6000 rpms but the still claim it to be considerably better throughout the rpm range. But then again they may just be trying to sell their $350 product. I guess my best bet would be to get a keyed hub first for like $50 bucks then go from there. It is not that bad of a vibration & smooths out above 5000 rpms.
Thanks again...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



