LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

ATF in engine oil safe for flushing crap out?

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Old Feb 23, 2004 | 01:31 PM
  #16  
Brundle's Avatar
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From: Whitby, Ontario, Canada
Originally posted by 88irocz28
Do you mean Seafoam?
No, thats not it. But actually, I think I remembered the name. I believe it was V.I.C.S.
I think.
But from what my mechanic told me it was only a product shops could order. He was the one that got it for me. He's also a friend so he hooks me up.
But i'm sure there is other off the shelf products you can find in your area.
Old Mar 25, 2009 | 07:40 PM
  #17  
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Auto-rx is the way to go.
Old Mar 25, 2009 | 07:51 PM
  #18  
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From: South Riding, VA
If you have been running mobil one for a very long time, your engine is clean. Synthetics have superior detergent and lubrication qualities. The oil is dark because, as someone said ealier, its doing its job. Do not go by the oil alone. Pull a valve cover and look inside. If its clean, you are fine. You are not using oil or leaking oil. Leave it alone.
Old Mar 25, 2009 | 08:11 PM
  #19  
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Nothing goes in the oil except for oil or maybe bye bye bearings.
Old Mar 25, 2009 | 08:42 PM
  #20  
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From: Kernersville, NC
Back in 1991, I had a Mazda B2200 pickup. The lifters in those things had holes so small, that they would clog if you looked at them wrong. Then....clack, clack, clack, all the time. Mazda recommended using 1/2 quart of ATF fluid, in the oil, to prevent the problem.

Of course, this was my first vehicle and I didn't know jack **** about how to work on them. I let my oil go for 10,000 miles before my first change. That was a stupid mistake that really caused them to clog up. The ATF fluid did help the lifter problem tremendously.
Old Mar 25, 2009 | 09:16 PM
  #21  
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Could this be the oldest thread to be bumped?
Old Mar 26, 2009 | 08:47 AM
  #22  
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From: Oklahoma where trees are made of wood.
Since its been bumped ...lol, I'll put in a story.

My granddad when he would change the oil in his gas powered tractors (very long time ago) he would put in kerosene and run it for a while there idling. then drain it and fill it up with oil.

About 10 years ago we pulled one of the tractors motors out of the junk and rebuilt it for another tractor being restored. That sucker was spotless inside...lol

I would never do this to my car of course.

(it was a john deere "N")
Old Mar 26, 2009 | 10:37 AM
  #23  
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From: elyria,oh
gunks motor flush is cheap and can be got at walmart .i know you have one of those i your city .i use one as can says .than before filling with new oil .i put 2 to 3 in oil pan with plug in .gets all the **** off your oil pick up .then drain about 1-2 hours later .rise pan out with cheap oil .put pulg back in fill with Mobil 1 and Mobil 1 filter (fill filter with oil first i don't like dry starts )
Old Mar 26, 2009 | 08:55 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by moparman
Could this be the oldest thread to be bumped?
Hehe, I didn't even pay any attention to the date. Good catch!
Old Mar 27, 2009 | 01:35 AM
  #25  
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Well, since it has been bumped, and everyone else is adding in knowledge.

If your engine oil is not dark/black after the first twenty minutes of running your lucky. No matter how often I change oil it always looks used
Old Mar 27, 2009 | 01:33 PM
  #26  
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From: Jonesboro, AR
Wow, my very own thread back from the dead!! Guess I'll chime in too!

I now have another 1994 TA and this one actually turns the oil darker more quickly than the old one. I'm guessing it's just a consequence of the 156k miles on the clock. Before my last oil change I did put some seafoam in the engine oil which came out really dark, but not as bad as the first time I seafoamed it. I also poured a quart of the oil through the motor with the drain plug out to flush out any remaining crap. I guess that last step helped a lot because it took a long time to turn the oil dark. FWIW, I'm running 0w30 Mobil 1.
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