Well i looked on ALLDATA and it says my cap bolts should have been 77 ft lbs
Well now i have studs and from ARP's website it says 63 ft lbs with moly lube does that sound right i figured you could tighten them tighter with a stronger bolt???

 

Just did mine and the machinest recommended 65lbs w/moly lube.

 

ARP mandates that you torque them to 70 ft lbs with the ARP moly lube or 85 ft lbs with oil. You should have gotten a yellow piece of paper in your stud kit with this info.

 

if you didnt get the torque setting in the package, call arp and make sure. I think it was mid 60's on mine. cant remember now though. but, it was LOWER then factory setting cause the lube lets the parts squeeze with the same pressure as factory bolts w/o the lube. the studs are stronger, and will not allow the cap to move around as much, leading the eng. bearings to wear out quicker and keeping the crank in proper alignment. if you over tighten the cap studs, it will not be good for your new engine parts and will eat HP. also, dont forget to sneak up on the final torque measuerments. as in, tighten them in order, but start with like 22ft/lbs, second trip around torque to 45ft/lbs, then 3rd time around to the final torque.

also, make sure the studs for the rear main cap dont interfere with your oil pump. I overlooked this and when tightening down my oil pump, pulled out the threads inside the rear main cap. look on my photo page for the pics of the area to clearance if needed.

 

Yeah i didnt have that little yellow piece of paper when i had it linehoned with the studs in place must have got lost in the shuffle.I did call ARP and the customer support was great it was a Lady really knew her bolts,it was a confirmed 70 ft lbs thans guys got the shortblock together this weekend hopefully have some dyno #'s in a few weeks!!!!!!

 

No problem, happy to help; I installed a set last week on my F.I. 355.