Anyone try Mobil 1 15W50?
Anyone here try Redline 5w-40? I hear that is pretty much the best oil you can use. Not too thick, definatly not too thin. I think I'll try that stuff. Now where do I buy it in Canada? Anyone know?
Originally posted by hsyr
Wow I didn't know so many guys here would use an oil that thick. How many stock bottom end guys use this stuff? Do you guys think I should switch to it?
Wow I didn't know so many guys here would use an oil that thick. How many stock bottom end guys use this stuff? Do you guys think I should switch to it?
Engine tolerances determine oil viscosity nessesary. Oil viscosity is determined by oil base composition, additive properties, and operating temperture.
IF you run extremly high tempertures, for a VERY long time (such as a oil-cooled-TURBO engine, or in circle track / NASCAR sky-high rpms) then yes... you need to run a higher grade oil to keep viscosity from breaking down.
With the LT1 not being boost-friendly, and having a PCM-limit of 7000 rpms or so... I find it VERY had to believe anyone NEEDs more than 10W30 unless they have a dedicated race-car that operates above 5000 rpms for hours at a time.
Extra viscosity will make oil pressure rise, sapping hp, and may even cause problems with bearing wear in cold tempertures.
Not worth it. Get SuperSyn 10W30, or "upgrade" to Redline if you want. Best way to increase your oil system (which makes the SBC nearly bullet proof because it's a killer design) is to use an over-sized filter and make frequent oil changes (I do every 3000 to 4000 miles with synthetic... but some consider this overkill).
Originally posted by americanmusscle
Redline is like 8 bucks a quart. Thunder racing sells it.
Redline is like 8 bucks a quart. Thunder racing sells it.

Best price I've found is from B&B Autoparts here in the Puget Sound area. I belive I got a case at ~$5.75 per quart (~$6/qrt with taxes).
Per bottle it's about $7 though. Get it by the case if you want.
I'm sticking to Mobile 1 from Walmart though. Can't beat $19 for a 5 quart jug.
Originally posted by lt1form
I run it year round, awesome oil pressure.
I run it year round, awesome oil pressure.
You need 10psi for each 1000rpms ... up to ~55psi max.
Anthing beyond that is wasted hp in the form of:
a) pumping losses (from the pump dragging)
b) oil heating due to the design of the bypass in most oil pumps
This explains why the stock SBC's pump has a bypass kick in at 60psi. The Z28 "white spring" for HIGH-rpm racing (i.e. 7000 rpms+) cuts this back to about 70psi before the bypass valve kicks in.
As long as you're above 10psi/1000 rpms your fine... in fact the lower you go (by choosing a LOWER viscosity grade like 5W30, using a larger oil filter, or with some internal oil passage work) you'll probably get a few poines out of it.
More than likely you'll find that the 15w50 is going to be too thick, and if you did oil analysis on it after you've run it a few thousand miles, your wear numbers will be higher than normal.
I've gotten amazing wear numbers in my Formula using the German made Castrol Syntec 0w30, which is a thicker 30wt which is close to a 40wt actually, as it's 12.2 cst at 100c (12.5cst to 16.3 would be 40wt oil)
Thicker is not always better, and from the oil analysis results I've seen from LT1 powered vehicles, they tend to like oils of around 12 to 14cst.
No matter what oil you choose, the best thing you can do to help you determine if it's right for your engine and your driving habits and climate, is to send off a sample of the used oil for analysis. Blackstone labs or Wearcheck are both very good choices. I use Wearcheck Canada myself.
I've gotten amazing wear numbers in my Formula using the German made Castrol Syntec 0w30, which is a thicker 30wt which is close to a 40wt actually, as it's 12.2 cst at 100c (12.5cst to 16.3 would be 40wt oil)
Thicker is not always better, and from the oil analysis results I've seen from LT1 powered vehicles, they tend to like oils of around 12 to 14cst.
No matter what oil you choose, the best thing you can do to help you determine if it's right for your engine and your driving habits and climate, is to send off a sample of the used oil for analysis. Blackstone labs or Wearcheck are both very good choices. I use Wearcheck Canada myself.
Originally posted by Steve in Seattle
Yeah, it's even worse in Canada. Growing up in Saskatchewan, I had to put up with my friend complain about CN$19/liter for his Porsche 944.
Yeah, it's even worse in Canada. Growing up in Saskatchewan, I had to put up with my friend complain about CN$19/liter for his Porsche 944.

I use 5W-30 mobile one in my 158k mile car. Thats what it calls for so thats what i use. I dont know if the fact that i run a 150 shot of nitrous effects what oil i should use but i havent had any problems yet.
Originally posted by Steve in Seattle
This explains why the stock SBC's pump has a bypass kick in at 60psi. The Z28 "white spring" for HIGH-rpm racing (i.e. 7000 rpms+) cuts this back to about 70psi before the bypass valve kicks in.
This explains why the stock SBC's pump has a bypass kick in at 60psi. The Z28 "white spring" for HIGH-rpm racing (i.e. 7000 rpms+) cuts this back to about 70psi before the bypass valve kicks in.
Jason
I use the 15-50W super Synthetic Mobile 1...hardcore oil...lst for ever...wouldn't put in anything else...you can actually feel a noticeable difference whne you switch to it...it's a very nice oil...wouldn't use anything less...Mobile reccomends it for High Pro cars...
It provides good engine protection...trust me....spent allot of time in the 5-6K range spinning hte wheels...
It provides good engine protection...trust me....spent allot of time in the 5-6K range spinning hte wheels...
Last edited by Heatmaker; Jan 26, 2004 at 02:34 PM.


