I am going for a daily driven car here so first off should this even be a consideration? Heard you need spring pressures in upwards of 1000lbs closed so it doesnt sound like it would be a good candidate for a daily driver... but if anyones is I would love to know what your setup is. Also I am not looking to rev to the moon which is one thing that a solid roller seems to be good for, I figured I would get it because of the increase in power all over the torque curve, like a much less expensive stroker or something, over the hydraulic even if I only want to take it to 6500 or so.

 

TTT

 

Seat pressures are in the 220-240 area for a solid roller. Unless you have a aftermarket PCM, your limited to under 7k rpm. A hydralic roller is fine, especially for a all weather daily driver. They offer some stout hyd. roller cams, over 250 duration @.050.

 

wouldnt want to go over 6500 anyways but I still was wondering if the solid roller is worth all the extra power even though I wont be using it to its fullest potential. I mean a solid roller with the same duration and lift will make much more power than a hydraulic and I was wanting to take advantage of it but was wondering if it was feasible for a DAILY driven machine.

 

from what i hear you have to adjust your valve lash every 3000 miles. but aside of that i wouldnt see anyother downsides to a SR setup.

good luck

 

a solid roller will idle/drive the same as a much smaller hydraulic cam while making a good deal more power. that cam Brooke is selling would drive about like a hotcam(or even a little tamer) and make great power, although it would probably like to be run to 6800-7000 (which IMO is fine on a stock shortblock).

seems like most solid roller guys dont have problems with having to do frequent lash adjustments. i think alot of it just comes down to the rockers/polylocks you are using and your method of tightening them down to start with. a girdle will also help keep things in check. i havent had any lash problems so far, but i dont drive my car a whole lot anymore.

as mentioned earlier, for the sizes of solid rollers you would want to use in your application, 220lbs seat pressure will be more than enough. i run a 254/259, .664/.656 with 225lbs seat, 625lbs open

 

Okay maybe someone could help me pic out about what size cam I would need if I told you what I want?

6 speed car thats daily driven. I am willing to go up to 6800 or so as long as I dont need to rev it up to the moon to make any power, kind of like the low end torque cause you can have fun just messing around without reving too high, Again for the time being, or until something goes wrong, this will be on a stock bottom end so its a 350 cu. Anythig else? Also how much head work is REQUIRED to run a solid roller like this? I was planning on having them ported but for that I would have to wait on selling some stuff which could take a while, so if I just threw the cam in would it run wel or do I need the heads ported? Where is somewhere I can learn a little more about solid rollers too? Thanks.

 

ttt

 

I'm curious as well about this subject... what's a comparable solid roller spec to a stock LT1? LT4 Hot Cam? CC305? CC306? I guess compare power... but I'd also like to know what have comparable idle, and drivability as well.

Just curious.

My car isn't a daily driver, and I will have a higher stall eventually. But I don't want an all out race cam either... and thats why the solid roller sounds appealing... more power, better idle and drivability. Checking and adjusting lash every 3K is fine with me, that'd only be once a year probably.

I suppose I'd go with a CC306ish cam if I went HR... so what SR cam would make that kind of power?

 

TOONCES THE DRIVING CAT...
"TOONCES LOOK OUT"!!!

::tumbles down cliff::




Anyways back to the question at hand....

 

I have a solid cam in my Iroc, but its not a roller. the thing w/solid cams is, you will get similar power out a cam thats one to two sizes smaller. so say you have a HR cam w/240/240 duration. you can get a solid cam thats 230/230 and get the same results (or better) and not worry about valve float. but on the other hand, you can still get that 240/240 cam and make alot more power in the mid-upper rpms. the HR cam will make more torque I believe down low due to the hyd. lifter plunger collapsing makeing the cam "act" smaller then it is w/less lift/duration. I think you trade off some fuel mileage too. prolly not much, but some. I dont think this is the cam for a daily driver due to those two factors. if your racing it alot, then maybe the better perf. is worth the small lose of down low torque and mileage. another good thing about the solid cams is no need for an expensive rev kit to see 7000 rpms if your racing it. anyone else care to add there opinions on this?


almost forgot, I think you need to delete the Knock Sensor for this too, due to all the valve train noise caused by the clearance on the rockers.

chris