Anyone run an inline water pump?
Anyone run an inline water pump?
hey guys,
I want to run an inline water pump on my LT1. That means I need to ditch the stock-style pump. The thing is, no one makes any block plates that'll work with the LT1.
Has anyone made any of these? I noticed that the LT1 has two holes per side whereas a standard SBC only has one. Does someone know how the coolant flows through those holes?
Here's a picture of the kind of block plates I'm referring to.
http://www.hangar18fabrication.com/images/DSC00454.JPG
Thanks for your help,
Colin
I want to run an inline water pump on my LT1. That means I need to ditch the stock-style pump. The thing is, no one makes any block plates that'll work with the LT1.
Has anyone made any of these? I noticed that the LT1 has two holes per side whereas a standard SBC only has one. Does someone know how the coolant flows through those holes?
Here's a picture of the kind of block plates I'm referring to.
http://www.hangar18fabrication.com/images/DSC00454.JPG
Thanks for your help,
Colin
hey guys,
I want to run an inline water pump on my LT1. That means I need to ditch the stock-style pump. The thing is, no one makes any block plates that'll work with the LT1.
Has anyone made any of these? I noticed that the LT1 has two holes per side whereas a standard SBC only has one. Does someone know how the coolant flows through those holes?
Here's a picture of the kind of block plates I'm referring to.
http://www.hangar18fabrication.com/images/DSC00454.JPG
Thanks for your help,
Colin
I want to run an inline water pump on my LT1. That means I need to ditch the stock-style pump. The thing is, no one makes any block plates that'll work with the LT1.
Has anyone made any of these? I noticed that the LT1 has two holes per side whereas a standard SBC only has one. Does someone know how the coolant flows through those holes?
Here's a picture of the kind of block plates I'm referring to.
http://www.hangar18fabrication.com/images/DSC00454.JPG
Thanks for your help,
Colin
The LT1 is reverse cooling. Coolant flows to the heads before it flows through the block. If you can simulate this w/ the in-line pump then it'll work, but why?
Why? I'm putting an LT1 into a car that's about 3/4 the size of a Camaro. My stock water pump hits my radiator even with the radiator in front of the core support. I cannot run a stock Meziere LT1 pump unless I want to run without a radiator.
It's going into a 1972 Chevrolet Vega GT. I've already cut out the whole transmission tunnel just to fit the T56. It's 200lb lighter than a Datsun 240Z.
It's going into a 1972 Chevrolet Vega GT. I've already cut out the whole transmission tunnel just to fit the T56. It's 200lb lighter than a Datsun 240Z.
Holy *****.... good luck with that. Perhaps someone w/ a bit more fabrication skills will chime in.
Is the engine mounted in that pic? If so there's no way to push the radiator 1/2" towards the front by "manipulating" the core support?
Is the engine mounted in that pic? If so there's no way to push the radiator 1/2" towards the front by "manipulating" the core support?
Last edited by SS RRR; Jul 13, 2007 at 06:36 AM.
Are you running an oil cooler with this? If not why dont you just remove that pipe and plug the hole. That port is only needed to supply water to the oil cooler. Removing it would gain you probably a full inch of space with no headaches.
To answer your question I dont think you can run a remote pupm on an LT1 since the coolant flow is different. The top hols need to be fed first. But if you come up with something keep us posted. I'm sure you could make plate yourself....
To answer your question I dont think you can run a remote pupm on an LT1 since the coolant flow is different. The top hols need to be fed first. But if you come up with something keep us posted. I'm sure you could make plate yourself....
No ****? I thought those were for the heater core.
I was going to take my pump down to a CNC shop and have them make plates like these for my car.

Thanks for the post about the tubes. You made my day! I'm running a 6 speed so I don't need those tubes at all. I think I'll pull the tubes out and have them welded shut.
Thanks a lot,
Colin
I was going to take my pump down to a CNC shop and have them make plates like these for my car.

Thanks for the post about the tubes. You made my day! I'm running a 6 speed so I don't need those tubes at all. I think I'll pull the tubes out and have them welded shut.
Thanks a lot,
Colin
I don't know if this helps you or not.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showpo...7&postcount=30
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showpo...7&postcount=30
Where will the thermostat go?
The little pipe touching the rad can easily be deleted. The radiator hose nipple I think is workable. Worse case pull the steel insert and plug and drill for AN lines for the upper.
The LT1 will be more challenging to go inline only than a gen 1 because the two sides of the block have seperate feeds and outlets rather than joining in the intake like a gen 1, more plumbing, certainly doable but I don't think you need to go that far.
If you do decide to stick with the inline electric I would look at cutting up a stock pump to use as a manifold of sorts.
The little pipe touching the rad can easily be deleted. The radiator hose nipple I think is workable. Worse case pull the steel insert and plug and drill for AN lines for the upper.
The LT1 will be more challenging to go inline only than a gen 1 because the two sides of the block have seperate feeds and outlets rather than joining in the intake like a gen 1, more plumbing, certainly doable but I don't think you need to go that far.
If you do decide to stick with the inline electric I would look at cutting up a stock pump to use as a manifold of sorts.
Where will the thermostat go?
The little pipe touching the rad can easily be deleted. The radiator hose nipple I think is workable. Worse case pull the steel insert and plug and drill for AN lines for the upper.
The LT1 will be more challenging to go inline only than a gen 1 because the two sides of the block have seperate feeds and outlets rather than joining in the intake like a gen 1, more plumbing, certainly doable but I don't think you need to go that far.
If you do decide to stick with the inline electric I would look at cutting up a stock pump to use as a manifold of sorts.
The little pipe touching the rad can easily be deleted. The radiator hose nipple I think is workable. Worse case pull the steel insert and plug and drill for AN lines for the upper.
The LT1 will be more challenging to go inline only than a gen 1 because the two sides of the block have seperate feeds and outlets rather than joining in the intake like a gen 1, more plumbing, certainly doable but I don't think you need to go that far.
If you do decide to stick with the inline electric I would look at cutting up a stock pump to use as a manifold of sorts.
I did find that the Y-Body water pump is slightly different. Those tubes on the front of the F-body pump are absent. I'm thinking I may be able to use a Corvette pump and get away with figuring out a quick fix for the radiator outlets.
I'd have a CNC shop make some plates locally but I'm not sure 'how' the coolant travels. Does it feed into the block equally on both sides and then return back through the lower holes? Thus, I'd need to 'y' the outlet from the water pump into the block to distribute the inflow equally to the upper holes?
I may give a 'vette pump a shot.
If anyone has any other input please let me know. I appreciate your help.
Take car,e
Colin
http://s120.photobucket.com/albums/o...t=DCP_0463.jpg
This a b-body pump. The heater lines stick out maybe 3/4" from the face of the pump, similar to the lower heater hose on your current pump. I could take and email a top view pic if you like. The b-body reman pump is only like $42 from Advance.
This a b-body pump. The heater lines stick out maybe 3/4" from the face of the pump, similar to the lower heater hose on your current pump. I could take and email a top view pic if you like. The b-body reman pump is only like $42 from Advance.
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