I bought MAC headers back in 1997 and installed them. Just the crappy factory coating. Used them until last year and sold them. They worked great for me and continue to work just fine for the guy I sold them to. A contributing factor to my luck with the factory coating is that I live in Florida... no salty roads!

Here is a picture of them the day I took them out of the car...
http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/exh-0654_IMG.JPG

Not too bad. However, I do recommend if you have the extra funds to just get them coated.

 

I had stainless steel borla headers uncoated w/ heads and cam and ran for 4 yrs and no problems. Looked almost the same 4 yrs later when I took them out and sold them. Wires were routed in their original location too w/ no problems.

 

Uncoated SLP shorties. They are stainless. I wrapped them instead of coating. Looks different and works better. Being stainless they should last a long time. A lot depends on how you wrap them. There is a right way and many wrong ways to wrap them. Its been almost two years and no problems.


Lance

 

Just bought MAC Headers today, new with y-pipe for a single cat f-bod.

Now I have to get that S-Pipe and an OBD1 conversion. How did you wrap them and where did you egt the stuff to do it?

I'm thinking of that medical wrap type lookin stuff.....is that what it was (except for wrapping hi temp pipes of course! )

 

had hooker long tubes for almost 2 years..they are UNCOATED, and they still look GREAT.
Marcin

 

I have Edelbrock TES on my car, uncoated. Check sig for pics.

 

This was my plan and if anyone sees a problem please let me know and point me in the right direction. I've been reading the archives all night.

Headers are ordered. Next is an S-Pipe to make this single cat system bolt up to my dual cat car.

OEM Header gaskets, stage 8 header bolts (from NAPA? where do I get these? what size am I lookin for)

I'll be going with a pcmforless OBD1 conversion, having it programmed before its shipped to me, so i can get away with not using the O2 sensors....

Is there anything I'm missing? The system comes with the y-pipe...

Thanks,

Leo

 

I was recommended not to use Stage 8 bolts, but to just use regular header bolts (MAC includes them in the kit). Reason being, sometimes you won't be able to get the Stage 8 locks on anyway.... AND they probably won't come loose once you re-tighten them once, maybe twice.

You could try'em, but I've had people tell me they're a headache, so I skipped those...

-Michael

 

so once i get my OBD1 conversion, is there any other parts I would need?

pcmforless indicated that the rear O2 sensors would be ignored by the PCM, but are there other ones I have to worry about?

Thanks,

lbrowne

 

You still have to have your front 2 O2's.... that's how the fuel system knows what the heck is going on!! Its not related to smog, it's related to the engine running

The only thing I can think of is you might need extension wires for the O2 sensors... usually the driver's side is too short.

-Michael

 

WASTE OF MONEY! honestly! paying $200 for a pretty header yes lemme tell ya it will really keep the heat down THAT MUCH TOO my buddy had his long tubes coated cause he bought them from someone that way and its nothing great ill tell you that! its already starting to fade down by the collectors etc. i didnt get it on my long tubes and am glad i didnt! spend the $200+ dollars on something that will ACTUALLY give your power IMO

 

I had MAC shorties with there coating and had nothing but headache. Heating problem burning wires.

I just went with FLP and love them.