I'm still having a ****load of problems with the cooling system on my car. Low coolant light comes on when radiator is full, car runs very hot 225* in traffic even though I have fans reprogrammed.

I can't figure out what it is....... my buddies can't figure out what it is......... the mechanic that my brother works for can't figure out what it is....... I don't know how to test the meziere pump, is there a way?

 

Thats a good question.You could take it out and check it.Or take out the Tstat and remove the radiator cap to see it flowing.Sure your radiator isnt plugged up?The coolant light could be a faulty sensor or perhaps the coolant is boiling...maybe that will help..I tried

 

Man I had a friend here w/ that electric water pump, had TONS of problems with it. He put the stock one back on. Has no overheat problems now.

 

I appreciate the help man, every little bit helps. I am so ****ing confused and upset with this car!!

I think the low coolant light is because of water boiling, since the level is always topped off, or close to the top.

Someone suggested a new radiator cap.

Also, the pump seems to be working ok, I can see a steady stream of coolant coming from the hose from the coolant crossover tube. But then again, I can't watch the pump all the time, and it could be intermittently going out.

HELP ME PEOPLE!!!!!!!!!!!

 

What were his symptoms?

 

2 week old pump.

 

 

Maybe you got the polairty wrong and the impeller is spinning in the wrong directions?

 

DC motors will not turn backwards just because of wrong polarity.

 

Tomorow morning I'm going to get up early and get a new radiator cap, and some radiator flush. If there is a blockage(which I'm really hoping is my problem) maybe that will break it up.

Gimme more ideas!

 

Cool.

 

Your low coolant light is most likely a faulty low coolant sensor; not really sure that has anything to do with the temp you are running at.

225* isn't all that hot either. I assume you have a 160* t-stat, and you said the fans were reprogrammed. What temps did you program the fans to come on/off at? What temp is the car running at during normal driving (non traffic)?

Maybe the electric pump just isn't as efficient as the mechanical ones, for whatever reason?

Thomas.

 

After putting all the mods on the car, it ran fine for 4 months. I have a 170* thermostat, and the fans programmed to come on at 185*. Even sitting in traffic during the hottest days of the summer around here, the temp on my gauge never got above 190*, whether I was sitting still or moving. Now my car is running 30* warmer while I'm moving, and sometimes almost to redline when I'm in traffic. There is a definite problem here, especially since it has been cool lately. The car got so hot the other day that it blew the cap off of the overflow tank and sprayed coolant everywhere.

I think a blockage is causing a hot spot somewhere, which is causing the coolant to boil, which is tricking the low coolant sensor into thinking the level is actually low. If the coolant is actually boiling, then it is causing the motor to run hot by creating steam pockets and also boiling off some of my coolant.

 

Hmmm, have you checked the air dam in front of the radiator to make sure nothing got sucked up there and is blocking air flow through the radiator?

If that checks out, I think you're on the right track starting with a radiator flush first. Then check out your thermostat and the electric waterpuimp. Also, maybe the sending unit to the dash gauge is faulty; do you have the ability to scan your car and see what temp the PCM is seeing?

Worse case scenario would be a head gasket.

Good luck,
Thomas.

 

Have the cooling system pressure tested for leaks. If air gets into the system, you're screwed. Also make sure you haven't broken/lost the air deflector under the nose of the car. If it isn't working you will overheat. Lastly, you never said anything about bleeding the system, so here's the poop.

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With the engine cold and off, pull the radiator cap and top off the radiator. Turn the key to the on position and the electric water pump will come on and the coolant should drop some more. Top it off again. Open the brass bleeder screw on top of the thermostat housing ( You can put a rag under it to keep coolant off the opti...) and leave it open until you get a steady stream of coolant and then close and tighten it. Top off the radiator one last time and put the cap back on.

Start the engine and let it heat up until the thermostat opens. You can tell on the guage when it opens because the temp will raise as the engine gets warm and then go back down some as soon as the thermo opens. As soon as it opens, leave the engine running and open the brass bleeder screw in the hose that is the highest point in the middle/front of your engine. Keep it open until all/most of the air is bled from the hose and you get a steady stream of coolant. Close and tighten the bleeder.

Fill the coolant overflow tank to the full/hot level. You should be good to go. If it still gets hot, you can stop the car, let it cool down and repeat the bleeding procedure.

Sometimes it gets a air pocket that's persistent and needs a couple of bleed cycles to get cleared up.

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