I finished up assembling my bottom end, and then I relized that while the shop resized my rod caps, they didnt replace my rod bolts. I really dont want to pull it all back apart, but if need be I will.

So, is it required for a high spinning motor? If so, can I do it without pulling out the pistons, and if so how? And if not, will I have to have any other work done (like resizing rod caps again) if I replace them.

Also, if they are required, which ones should I use?

 

Personally I would pull 'em out & hit the machinist in the head with one for not putting the new bolts in New ARP rod bolts are a very good idea.. especially since youre planning on doing some reving.

 

pull 'em out and replace 'em. You shouldn't need to resize them again though. Definately bop that machinist upside the head for not even recommending it!!! Chris

 

I personally have done both used and new in the lt1's. I would be hesitant to change the bolts after machine work. Reason being is that the amount of force (high or low) that is needed to press in the bolts and the fit may in fact distort the cap. Should have been done before machine. I have an lt1 that i regularly spin to 6000 rpm with used bolts and no problems at this point. I would almost be hesitant to replace the nuts on the bolts if the rods were balanced as it may change the balance of the motor.

just my 2 pennies

 

ps
I have seen more new bolts fail than used ones. New you are never sure what you got.

again just me

 

Just the guy I was hoping to chime in. I have re-used them in previous motors, and never had any problems, but the spec sheet for 1995 said, 20ftlbs and 55*, so I just went off the 1994 specs which said 47ftlbs.

I am also re-using the main bolts, bad idea? with the stock windage tray I was hesitant to change out the main bolts.

 

My friend reused the rod/bolt assemblies out of my stock 350 rotating assembly when I did my 383, and he got to see a rod punch through his oil pan after less than 100 miles due to a rod bolt that let go...

The difference in quality between ARP bolts and stockers is staggering. Anyone who would consider stock bolts in a performance application is out of touch with the forces involved in a high output engine. So, yes, bring them back to the machine shop and don't take "no" for an answer.

 

holy crap i must be out of touch! god i hate it when that happens Cant imagine how GM has got by all these years with such low quality bolts I personally have 2 cars that get hammered in a road course every day it is not raining with stock rod bolts. One well over 400 HP one stock.

Note to self: Change rod bolts in every GM product i own. Lets see, 4 cars, 2 trucks, 1 motor home, 1 irrigation system, 1 2 ton truck. hummmmmm wonder if jegs will give me a discount on a volume purchase. Oh crap forgot about the street sweeper and tractor Crap this is going to get expensive. Wonder if my insureance will pay for part of it.

I guess what it really comes down to is to each thier own. I have certainly broke more new rod, main and head bolts than used nicely cycled ones. My question is why the rod let go. Did the nut come off or did the bolt break. Not trying to start flames or highjack the thread. I agree to some extent on new bolts, new rods, new bolts. Most bolt and nut failure is installer induced, including myself. Over torque, under torque, improper bolt prep or not using the right tools. I have had rod, main and head bolts fail and i have always known why after the fact. It was me doing something wrong, main one being is not lube bolts so they can reach thier proper torque or stretch specs without galling.

Just my 2 pennies actually it was about 4 pennies

 

well, this leaves me with a delima, 944v8inDFW is there anyway I could talk with you on the phone?

I lubed my rod bolts with motor oil and tightend them with around 30ftlbs then 45 ftlbs.

-james

 

Are you serious? No one is saying a stock rod bolt can't work, they do all the time. But when you crank up the inertial loads in an engine by spinning it harder, stock rod bolts quickly become the weak link.

http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/tech/tech.html

Not all bolts are created equal...