I'm really questioning the high MAP being the biggest cause for this on my car, cuz my car doesn't have that maf to meter and tell the ecm how much air is flowing into my engine like the 94-97 f-bodies do (i bet my car would run right now if it did), so it pretty much is just guessing how much fuel to put in based primarily on the RPM, MAP, and IAT, with the MAP being the only sensor telling it how much air it is pulling in through the throttle body.

The knock retard was disabled on the tune, from what I read the "knock module" on these cars is too sensitive and detects false knock (you prolly already know this) but what I didn't know (and you may not as well?) is that the knock module it not replaceable on a 93 so I had to have the knock retard disabled completely.... I also have 110 oct leaded race fuel in it right now with 10.5:1 compression, so that could be the reason it has no knock as well.

If the ignition timing is to late/advanced that could cause the excess loss of vacuum as well, right? Right now I’m really stumped to why it won't make more vacuum than this, it doesn't make too much sense... the only thing I haven't been able to do is to go around and spray everything with carb cleaner to check for intake leaks that way, because it won't idle, but all the hoses are hooked up and or blocked off and there it so much RTV on the intake manifold that it is hard to believe that it could possibly be leaking at the intake.

 

I was told that adding timing would increase vacuum, but that was also supposed to be accompanied by leaning it out too. I tried it and it didn't work for me though. I ended up having to take timing out because it was spark knocking. I have a vacuum issue too. Mine is pulling like 9" Hg at idle. My cam is a little bigger than yours, but when I give it gas, it builds the vacuum up where it is supposed to be. I don't remember (I'm at work) but I think your car was building alright vacuum at higher rpm's. I didn't know the 93' cars didn't have replaceable KM's. You should pull the injector fuse and try to run the car on starting fluid. Have someone help you and see if the car will run at all with starting fluid. Freescan won't work on your car. I didn't notice earlier, but you have a 93 and it is setup to work with 94-95. I'm stumped.

 

What mods do you have that require you to run 42# injectors?

 

Just fyi, I found this post that Gripenfelter made showing how to desensitize the stock KS.

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=458177

 

Cool, I was just looking at the sheet that came with the chip I got and it says that the stock knock sensor was desensitized in the programming but then it also says that spark retard was disabled, not sure why, but I don't care too much about this.

 

I don't need 42# injectors, my original reason for getting them was because I was planning on running a 150 dry shot but then I ended up going with the wet kit.. I know the 42's would run slightly rich at idle even with a really good tune on my car but now I got the stock 22# injectors back in with the tuning for 42# injectors and it still runs this rich..

 

Yeah, my car does build up vacuum after the rpms begin to wind back down after you rev it, i'm not to sure that the vacuum goes up as much as it should for the RPM's it is at, but it does go up.

Little confused on the second part of your reply... what is the purpose of running the starting fluid?... (It does run without flooding out with the stock 22# injectors, just very very very rich. The flooding problem is definetly a issue with the 42# injectors tho.)

 

You were asking about the timing and if it would run smoothly for a few seconds on the starting fluid, then you would know if the everything else is working correctly. Then, you would need to just focus on the fuel issue.

 

What are your MAP readings at idle? What is your idle? Aftermarket cam? My work's firewall won't let me DL your csv file.

Check your fuel pressure regulator and see if you smell fuel out of the vacuum line as well.

 

The car doesn't idle by itself at all (you'll see) so I have to keep tapping the gas to keep it running. It is suppose to idle at 900 rpms, and around that rpm it appears to in the range of 22" hg MAP with the barometric pressure being at 29.54" hg.

The cam specs are 224/224 .573/.566 (1.6 rockers) with a 108 LSA. The fuel pressure sits at 39 PSI at the Shrader valve with the vacuum line attached.... Check out my first post it has most of the stuff I have already checked. I'll pull off the vacuum line to make sure there's no fuel in it in a bit.

I just saw your email, i'll email you that file in a couple seconds.