LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Any tricks to changing the Water pump oil seal?

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Old Mar 12, 2003 | 11:23 AM
  #16  
shoebox's Avatar
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From: Little Rock, AR
Originally posted by Wild1
Does this seal have to be changed during the waterpump change?
Not unless it is leaking. It will not be disturbed during a water pump change. The seal is in the timing cover with the drive poking out of it. That part does not move when doing the water pump(the sleeve can come off, but not the drive). See top part of this pic, where the sleeve is still on it.
Old Mar 12, 2003 | 11:53 AM
  #17  
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From: Orange Kounty, Kalifornia
Everything was fine during the waterpump change. It is just starting to leak now which could be coincidental. It looks like it is pried out with a small screwdriver on the top then the new one carefully slips on... It is removed with a screwdriver right?

Thanks for the pic shoe... I didn't see it on your site last night. I guess I missed it.
Old Mar 12, 2003 | 01:59 PM
  #18  
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From: Little Rock, AR
Originally posted by Wild1
Everything was fine during the waterpump change. It is just starting to leak now which could be coincidental. It looks like it is pried out with a small screwdriver on the top then the new one carefully slips on... It is removed with a screwdriver right?

Thanks for the pic shoe... I didn't see it on your site last night. I guess I missed it.
Whatever tool you can use to coax it out will work. Sorry, I don't really have a link on my site to that pic. Guess I should make one.
Old Mar 12, 2003 | 03:01 PM
  #19  
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Thanks for the help... didn't mean to steal the thread.

Shoe - I usually go to your page before I dive in on any project. So hats off to the good work!
Old Mar 12, 2003 | 09:16 PM
  #20  
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WOW THAT WAS EASY

94 Camaro Z28, had the idea that I used,but thanks everyone else.

I did some grinding on the wp drive shaft and made a large bevel on one end, but the new seal was so stiff I was afraid to push too hard. Then I went with the film idea and the film would not slide with the new seal on the wp drive shaft.

Then it happened a buddy came over and all he does is work on LS1's and LT1's as a job. He said 'just grab a socket' and put the seal on the socket and slid it off on to the shaft. So I used a Craftsman 12 mm 12 point socket(six point is too much slop), slid the seal on and it went right on the drive in the timing cover, WOW!
Then I just finished pounding the seal on and used a very large socket and hit if from the side and it poped in with about 10 or so hits, no tears in the rubber. We reassembled and started it up and no leaks.

I also suggest if you doing the opti spark upgrade and before you put on the timing cover, remove the seal first. The angle I had to use to put the TC on was what tore the first seal, because the oil pan was only droped 1 inch.
Old Mar 13, 2003 | 10:15 AM
  #21  
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From: Orange Kounty, Kalifornia
12 point ehh? Interesting... I'll be doing this over the summer. Thanks for the tip!!! It's good to hear how the story ends.
Old Mar 22, 2003 | 10:26 PM
  #22  
fireman's Avatar
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From: Phoenix AZ
Is there a trick to getting the old one out? I tried a small screwdriver and it didn't work.
Is there a special tool or anything?

The old seal has only been on there a few weeks and I can't get it out!
Old Mar 22, 2003 | 11:46 PM
  #23  
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While we're on the topic, can I get a GM part number for this darn seal. I can't seem to find it at any parts stores around me. I'll just get it from the dealer. Thanks.
Old Mar 23, 2003 | 08:16 AM
  #24  
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From: Little Rock, AR
Originally posted by bad96firechikin
While we're on the topic, can I get a GM part number for this darn seal. I can't seem to find it at any parts stores around me. I'll just get it from the dealer. Thanks.
1993-1997 front cover water pump seal p/n 10217886 .
Old Mar 23, 2003 | 08:43 AM
  #25  
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From: Orlando, FL, USA
seal

bad96firechikin:
Notice in the top of the seal housing (on the timming cover) there is a small slot, this is for a prying device or in our case a small screwdriver. Just keep wacking at it until it starts to crush or you punch a hole in the top of the metal seal housing. Then it will start to come out. Take your time and keep taping the end of the screwdriver with a hammer, it will come out.
Then like I stated above, put the new seal on a socket (lube it good first) and place the socket next to the drive in the timing cover and push it on the drive, then get a large socket about the size of the seal outer rim and tap it on.

Ps: I did go to a larger screwdriver after I got a hole in the seal housing.

Jim
Old Mar 23, 2003 | 08:57 AM
  #26  
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From: Fairmount, GA
Originally posted by shoebox
1993-1997 front cover water pump seal p/n 10217886 .
Rob...once again thanks. You kick ***. - Brandon
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