LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

another terrible running LT1 in closed loop

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 17, 2010 | 06:00 AM
  #16  
Guest47904's Avatar
Guest
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 0
Did they go below 200 when they were jumped????????
Old Apr 17, 2010 | 09:37 AM
  #17  
pro94lt's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 147
From: central Arkansas
yes both of them went to around 4 or 5 (single digit)
Old Apr 17, 2010 | 01:49 PM
  #18  
pro94lt's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 147
From: central Arkansas
I may have used the wrong words, it will idle most of the time, when the a/c compressor kicks on the idle will either drop way down, while my o2 mv's drop way down, and then the idle will raise up to about 1500 or it will die after it has idled down, it seems to be the worst when the compressor kicks on. It will still do it sometimes without a/c. also it is bad when coming to a stoplight or slowing down, and will usually clear up out of it if i feather the throtle through the rough period. Also while it is doing this the throtle response is bad. It runs perfect, in open loop a few seconds after it hits closed loop is when it happens.
Old Apr 17, 2010 | 04:25 PM
  #19  
Guest47904's Avatar
Guest
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 0
From what you describe, the wiring is good, so it must be the O2s. What did you say the battery voltage is when the engine is running with a multi meter read at the battery, not with a scanner?
Old Apr 18, 2010 | 12:11 PM
  #20  
pro94lt's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 147
From: central Arkansas
14.4, when cold in open loop. about 14.1, 14.2 after warm and in closed loop.
Old Apr 18, 2010 | 12:34 PM
  #21  
pro94lt's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 147
From: central Arkansas
Anyway to adjust the AIC valve, I remember a couple of years ago my car had a similar problem that turned out to be one of the coolant temp sensors, I took the aic out and noticed that you can adjust the plunger, is their a designated area for it to be? I've got a spare opti from auto zone that has a lifetime warranty, I'm fixin to put it in just to see, no not really I hate when the coolant gets on me. so what's it down to, o2 sensor, aic, what else, I will never rule out the opti!
Old Apr 18, 2010 | 12:39 PM
  #22  
bubba4's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 130
I have a question for you, You said the idle problem happens in closed loop and is affected more when the a/c compressor is on. What is the Idle rpm command in closed loop (@ run temp)? Speedy, could a low idle command be causing this problem?
LF
Old Apr 18, 2010 | 01:20 PM
  #23  
pro94lt's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 147
From: central Arkansas
the desired Idle is always 850, I have Idled it up with the same results, it may get a little better, it won't die but the upper end of the high idle is also higher,
Old Apr 18, 2010 | 06:04 PM
  #24  
Injuneer's Avatar
Administrator
 
Joined: Nov 1998
Posts: 71,094
From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Originally Posted by pro94lt
Anyway to adjust the AIC valve, I remember a couple of years ago my car had a similar problem that turned out to be one of the coolant temp sensors, I took the aic out and noticed that you can adjust the plunger, is their a designated area for it to be? I've got a spare opti from auto zone that has a lifetime warranty, I'm fixin to put it in just to see, no not really I hate when the coolant gets on me. so what's it down to, o2 sensor, aic, what else, I will never rule out the opti!
I assume you are asking about the idle air control valve (IAC). Everything I have ever read about removing a used IAC valve indicates that you should NOT try to move the pintle, because is will damage the valve. It's OK to adjust a "new" valve, but not a used one.
Old Apr 18, 2010 | 08:47 PM
  #25  
pro94lt's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 147
From: central Arkansas
I ment IAC, guess I won't adjust on it. Is their a Better Scanner than the Autoxray 3000 that can let me se more of what's going on?
Old Apr 22, 2010 | 09:59 PM
  #26  
pro94lt's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 147
From: central Arkansas
Codes came back plus one 16, 42, 41, 36, 51 and 46, I'm gettin a new 02 sensor tomorrow, however Code 46 is for the VAT, don't think code 46 is causing my problem but when this happened my fans kicked on and ran for a while after it had died any thoughts? I'll probly swap the opti out this weekend just to try it I've ran out of options.
Old Apr 23, 2010 | 05:18 AM
  #27  
Guest47904's Avatar
Guest
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 0
A large number of random error codes is usually the product of a low voltage or AC leaking onto the DC line from the alternator. The code 51 if voltage is not the case, is usually catastrophic.
Old Apr 24, 2010 | 10:29 PM
  #28  
pro94lt's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 147
From: central Arkansas
So do you mean a alternator going bad or having issues can cause the kind of codes I'm having? I replaced the other 02 sensor and still have the problem. so what now, AIC, Computer, Alternator, Wiring harness, I would put another opti on for the hell of it but I only have an issue in closed loop, so what else, Could I have put my opti in wrong? it runs smooth in open loop, I would just sell the car but I've got to many hours to ever let go of this one go I love it, even if it keeps this up I will never part with it. what should I replace next?
Old Apr 25, 2010 | 06:17 AM
  #29  
Guest47904's Avatar
Guest
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 0
Don't replace anything. Troubleshoot it first. Since you once said you only had a problem once the headers were put in. AND you say it has a closed loop problem, I still think you missed a wiring issue. Have you checked the wiring were it goes down inside the passenger fender inside the foil over wrap????
Old Apr 25, 2010 | 01:23 PM
  #30  
pro94lt's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 147
From: central Arkansas
I'm in the process of checking the harness you described, I noticed I have a black wire bolted to my oil pan, and remember puting it their, the wire comes out of the harness that the o2 sensor wires are in, I have not been able to dig up where this wire goes but my engine is grounded to the frame from my front drivers side head to frame rail, does this wire ring a bell to anybody?


Also am i right in my thinking that the olny difference in open and closed loop is that when in closed loop it takes readings from the o2's and adjusts fuel from the readings, if that is true which I am under the understanding that it is, my problem has to be from my o2's to the pcm which is why I'm tracing the harness from pass side o2 up to the pcm.

Last edited by pro94lt; Apr 25, 2010 at 01:43 PM.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:06 PM.