Another 383 build ?'s thread..
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Another 383 build ?'s thread..
Ok, here is my thing. I am currently gathering parts and $ for my 383 build. This will NOT be a daily driver but it will see about about 70% street time, mostly weekends and for driving to car shows (not entering them) I am not concerned at all about gas mileage but I am concerned about reliability, and longevity. This will not be an all out drag engine, but I want to be able to make a 400 mile round trip without anything disasterous happening and I don't want to have to rebuild it after 10,000 miles. So basically what I am wanting to know is, are there any things in particular I should be looking out for with tolerances, and parts choices.
(A little more info for ya) The heads will be getting fully ported (and no I will not mention by which place either, lol) and I will get a forged rotating assembly. The machine shop will be doing the machine work on it but will not be building it though. I have plenty of experience rebuilding stock engines, just not with higher hp applications, so any help would be appreciated !
PS. I don't want this thread going towards the trans or rear end either, I have those figured out.
(A little more info for ya) The heads will be getting fully ported (and no I will not mention by which place either, lol) and I will get a forged rotating assembly. The machine shop will be doing the machine work on it but will not be building it though. I have plenty of experience rebuilding stock engines, just not with higher hp applications, so any help would be appreciated !
PS. I don't want this thread going towards the trans or rear end either, I have those figured out.
Last edited by 511ERT; Jul 22, 2009 at 03:24 AM.
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Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 10,745
From: Buffalo, New York
Ok, here is my thing. I am currently gathering parts and $ for my 383 build. This will NOT be a daily driver but it will see about about 70% street time, mostly weekends and for driving to car shows (not entering them) I am not concerned at all about gas mileage but I am concerned about reliability, and longevity. This will not be an all out drag engine, but I want to be able to make a 400 mile round trip without anything disasterous happening and I don't want to have to rebuild it after 10,000 miles. So basically what I am wanting to know is, are there any things in particular I should be looking out for with tolerances, and parts choices.
(A little more info for ya) The heads will be getting fully ported (and no I will not mention by which place either, lol) and I will get a forged rotating assembly. The machine shop will be doing the machine work on it but will not be building it though. I have plenty of experience rebuilding stock engines, just not with higher hp applications, so any help would be appreciated !
PS. I don't want this thread going towards the trans or rear end either, I have those figured out.
(A little more info for ya) The heads will be getting fully ported (and no I will not mention by which place either, lol) and I will get a forged rotating assembly. The machine shop will be doing the machine work on it but will not be building it though. I have plenty of experience rebuilding stock engines, just not with higher hp applications, so any help would be appreciated !
PS. I don't want this thread going towards the trans or rear end either, I have those figured out.
Rich
Thank you very much for the info ! I was hoping that I would get a response from you on this. 
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Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 10,745
From: Buffalo, New York
In terms of specific parts, if you go with an inexpensive offshore rotating assembly Scat is a much better choice than Eagle for the crank. Callies Compstar is the premier offshore brand. The cranks are very nice but pretty pricey. The rods, complete with ARP 2000 bolts are not much more $$$ than the Scat or Eagle and much nicer. Manley has a decent piston and you can often fine them pretty cheap on eBay, for some reason.
Remember, the power is in the heads/cam and valvetrain.
Rich
Remember, the power is in the heads/cam and valvetrain.
Rich
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